hemijoe
Well-Known Member
dam nice job there carnalsupply this is shaping up nicely cant wait to see more
'64 Fury Pro-Touring
- Thread starter carnalsupply
- Start date
carnalsupply
Well-Known Member
While I've got a few minutes of free time I wanted to upload the suspension pix I mentioned in last nights post, so here ya go:
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Thanks much Joe; coming from you that means a lot!
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Thanks much Joe; coming from you that means a lot!
hemijoe
Well-Known Member
your going to love the way the front suspension handles there is nothing like it
hemijoe
Well-Known Member
so what you going to work on this weekend
carnalsupply
Well-Known Member
Hey Joe,
Deciding whether I want to install a roll bar/cage, all of which has an effect on how I fab up my fender supports, which is the next step in my build. I've got the cage but am really heistant about using it because of how much room they take up, and since this isn't a race car...
What are you up to?
Hey Carnal Supply . . . the roll cage sounds cool, and it really looks cool in a car too. But, you said it's not a race car ( so it's not needed ), then it would come down to how much it hinders you getting in and out of the car, or takes away from head clearance . . .
Either way - I'll be following your thread, like always, to see what you're up to . . . thanks for the posts on your progress ! ! !
Either way - I'll be following your thread, like always, to see what you're up to . . . thanks for the posts on your progress ! ! !
hemijoe
Well-Known Member
just finished welding up the vette suspension in the valiant and I am now making up the coil over mounts so i ca get the car back on the ground as far as a roll bar ditch it if it is for passenger use
carnalsupply
Well-Known Member
So I made the decision not to go with the full cage and will go with a roll-bar, rear down tubes, and engine compatrment tubes. What I will leave out are (primarily) the bars that run from the roll-bar forward along the top of the window and down the a-pillar. My reasoning is based on the amount of space taken up along the a-pillar and foot well areas; I'm just not willing to sacrifice the amount of space necessary.
So basically I spent hours mocking up a couple of bars I'm not going to use!
Like I said, I am going to run the bars from the firewall forward to the frame rails for a couple of reasons:
1) with all the cowl/firewall work I've done the bars will add some rigidity and eliminate any chance of cowl shake.
2) the fenders need mounting points along their length and I'll be able to mount tabs from the bars to the fender
3) an added benefit (I'm hoping) will be the ability to mount some fabbed up inner fenders to help clean up the engine compartment
Here are a couple pix of the roll bar mocked into place:
To get the roll bar in place I cut a hole in the floor at the base of each leg, dropped the bar through the holes, lifted the bar vertically into position, blocked it from underneath, then strpped it so the legs are perfectly vertical. I'll cut the legs to length, trim them to fit the floor, then weld them and the base plates to the floor.
I'll get moving on the front bars (including pix) next time.
So basically I spent hours mocking up a couple of bars I'm not going to use!
Like I said, I am going to run the bars from the firewall forward to the frame rails for a couple of reasons:
1) with all the cowl/firewall work I've done the bars will add some rigidity and eliminate any chance of cowl shake.
2) the fenders need mounting points along their length and I'll be able to mount tabs from the bars to the fender
3) an added benefit (I'm hoping) will be the ability to mount some fabbed up inner fenders to help clean up the engine compartment
Here are a couple pix of the roll bar mocked into place:
To get the roll bar in place I cut a hole in the floor at the base of each leg, dropped the bar through the holes, lifted the bar vertically into position, blocked it from underneath, then strpped it so the legs are perfectly vertical. I'll cut the legs to length, trim them to fit the floor, then weld them and the base plates to the floor.
I'll get moving on the front bars (including pix) next time.
carnalsupply
Well-Known Member
Thanks 7! I'm really hoping the truck arm rear suspension, coupled with the Vette front, will make for a supple but well handling car.
Been getting side tracked with real life quite a bit but been lurking on your build thread; your car and fabricating ability are absolutely amazing! Congratulations on a BITCHIN' ride, it's quite an inspiration.
hemijoe
Well-Known Member
bump need more input need my eye candy at night
X2 . . . I agree . . . more pics ! ! !
carnalsupply
Well-Known Member
Been quiet on the forum but I have been working on the Fury so here are some updates.
After getting the roll-bar location dialed in I moved on to the front down bars and fender supports. The down bars were actually pretty easy since there were no fenders to get in the way.
Once the down bars were in place I re-mounted the fenders (loosely) and laid out where I wanted the fender supports to go. One important consideration was tying the supports into the rad support to stiffen it up (front to rear) and I got lucky, the bottom edge of the fender (with the mounting holes) was close to the down bars but with no interference..
Once I got the support tubing (3/8" od thin wall) tacked into place I loosely mounted the tabs, then tacked them in place.
I'm waiting for more roll-bar mounting plates to arrive so I decided to cut out and replace a section of the trans tunnel I was unhappy with. Not sure how I fabbed up such an ugly POS the first time around but it's bothered me ever since I finished it so I knew I had to redo it. Here's a shot of the tunnel after I cut out the ugliness and added a flange around the perimeter; tomoorow I'll fab the new patch and install it.
After getting the roll-bar location dialed in I moved on to the front down bars and fender supports. The down bars were actually pretty easy since there were no fenders to get in the way.
Once the down bars were in place I re-mounted the fenders (loosely) and laid out where I wanted the fender supports to go. One important consideration was tying the supports into the rad support to stiffen it up (front to rear) and I got lucky, the bottom edge of the fender (with the mounting holes) was close to the down bars but with no interference..
Once I got the support tubing (3/8" od thin wall) tacked into place I loosely mounted the tabs, then tacked them in place.
I'm waiting for more roll-bar mounting plates to arrive so I decided to cut out and replace a section of the trans tunnel I was unhappy with. Not sure how I fabbed up such an ugly POS the first time around but it's bothered me ever since I finished it so I knew I had to redo it. Here's a shot of the tunnel after I cut out the ugliness and added a flange around the perimeter; tomoorow I'll fab the new patch and install it.
Stevearino
Well-Known Member
Everything is coming along nicely. Keep up the good work.
carnalsupply
Well-Known Member
Today was a GREAT day in the shop. I got the patch panel for the trans tunnel fabbed and installed with no issues whatsoever and had an epiphany of sorts; wearing my reading glasses under my welding helmet makes an AMAZING difference in the quality of my welds. Yea, sounds obvious but other than reading or doing things really close up I don't need them, or so I thought.
Here's a picture of the finished tunnel and a closeup of the beads I'm actually capable of running (not perfect but FAR better than anything I've been able to lay down lately):
Tomorrow it's back to the shop to weld in the front of the trans tunnel over the bell housing.
Here's a picture of the finished tunnel and a closeup of the beads I'm actually capable of running (not perfect but FAR better than anything I've been able to lay down lately):
Tomorrow it's back to the shop to weld in the front of the trans tunnel over the bell housing.
hemijoe
Well-Known Member
lookin good bro keep it up
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are you using 023 wire on the sheet metal welds
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are you using 023 wire on the sheet metal welds
Stevearino
Well-Known Member
I don't know what brand of welding helmet you have but the outer plastic lenses in most can be changed out to a magnifier . I have 1.5 magnification on the outer lens of one of my helmets that I use for close up work.
carnalsupply
Well-Known Member
Hey Steve,
I've never heard of such a thing; thanks MUCH!
I'm using a Kobalt so I'll look into it.
I've never heard of such a thing; thanks MUCH!
I'm using a Kobalt so I'll look into it.
Propwash
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Dang Bob...Looking good! From here on out, I'll be using LED rope christmas tree lights to brighten things up on the interior as well. Pop in a little Bing Crosby, a bit of Nog and whistle some jingle bell's.
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