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'64 Fury Pro-Touring

I finally got rid of the flu and I've been busy on the Fury so I got back to work on the Fury, fabbing up the trunk floor and areas around the wheel wells, then moved on to the bottom of the car where I cleaned up (read: ground down) any unsightly welds left over from my previous electrical issues. Once the grinding was done I was pleasantly surprised to see my original welds, albeit ugly, had made great penetration, but not wanting to have any weak joints I went back and re-welded them. What a difference when your power isn't fluctuating!

Once all the grinding and re-welding was completed I ran the 1/2" aluminum fuel line. It's the first time I've worked with aluminum tubing and there are definitely some pros and cons to it, but they're completed and I'm happy with the results.

Next I'll be tackling the interior welds on the floor, cleaning up any unsightly ones, but since there will be carpet over most of them it shouldn't take me too long.

Here are some shots of what I've been up to:

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I pre-shaped and pre-bent the floor pan, which took a couple of hours of fitting, grinding, fitting, grinding (repeat, repeat) but in the end it was worth it because the piece fit pretty damn well (IMHO). I found that once I got the floor tacked into place at the two front corners I could make great progress by making one weld at a time, maybe 1/2 to 1 second at the most, connecting the new weld to the one I'd just previously done. The trick was to go quickly enough so the previous weld still had some heat in it and the new weld would easily puddle into the previous one, yet not create so much heat as to warp the metal. I would weld a couple of inches on each side, alternating from one side to the other and shaping the floor. The results worked out great, I am really pleased with how this method allowed me to fine tune the floor shape while minimizing any warping.

Next came the two filler pieces behind the wheel wells. These pieces had been cut out due to rot as well as the fact we moved the inner half of the wheel wells inward. All in all not terribly difficult to fab up and by using the same welding technique I used on the trunk floor the pieces are solidly in place and sealed up tight.

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Next came the fuel lines, which you'd think would be easy to route, but with the truck-arm suspension and the side mounted exhaust there was precious little room to work with. Luckily there was some room along the passenger side frame rail and along the trans tunnel that gave me the room I needed while keeping the lines away from the spinning driveshaft.

This first shot shows the bulkhead fitting where the lines will pass into the trunk. To eliminate a really acute angle for the fuel lines (both inside and outside the trunk) I decided to cut the trunk floor in 3 spots and fold the remaining flap forward. I'm going to box in the open areas which will have the added benefit of protecting the fittings on the inside of the trunk. Not that I expect to be carrying much in the trunk but I'd hate to have something crash around and snap off an aluminum fitting.

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In the picture below you can see how the fuel line turns at almost 90 degrees towards the center of the car. Luckily the surface of the cross member the fuel lines are attached too (lower right corner of the picture) is lower than the bottom surface of the frame rail so the fuel lines are recessed up into the chassis; if the car was to bottom out the frame rail would hit while the fuel lines are safely protected. One thing I am going to add is a bolt on shield to cover this particular area of the fuel lines; with the lines running perpendicular to the direction of travel I am concerned something could pop up from the road and snag one or both, making for a real bad day. I also feel like the shield will help keep the heat of the exhaust away from the lines as well.

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Thanks for keeping an eye on the Fury; it's back to grinding!

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An amazing amount of high quality work going into the Plymouth. It is obvious that this project is as much about the build as the finished product. You have a serious passion for design and perfection! Thanks for sharing with us.
 
An amazing amount of high quality work going into the Plymouth. It is obvious that this project is as much about the build as the finished product. You have a serious passion for design and perfection! Thanks for sharing with us.

You are EXCEPTIONALLY kind; thank you very much.
I, like some of the other guys on the site, have been learning SO MUCH as the project goes on, increasing my skill levels and confidence as I go. When I moved to Vegas and away from my friend (and mentor) Jimmy I was terrified I'd be lost, but now, whatever comes up is just another step in the process and something to learn from.
 
nice job but i would keep the fuel lines out of the trans tunnel for heat reasons
 
Great looking work again CarnalSupply, and I am glad that you are finally over the FLU ( nobody deserves that ) . . . and it's great to watch you as I too am in the same boat of tackling all of the work myself and learning every step of the way . . . it is a great feeling of accomplishment to watch your ( and mine ) skills improve as you work your way through the project. I just remember the words that kb67Mopar told me . . . if you weld it in and and you don't like it, cut it out and weld in a new piece of metal . . . it can all be redone ( hopefully we don't have to redo too much of the fabrication work that we tackle )

Looking good CarnalSupply - keep the pictures of the progress coming . . .
 
nice job but i would keep the fuel lines out of the trans tunnel for heat reasons

Hi Joe,

In a perfect world the fuel lines would run along the bottom of the floorpan, but with the exhaust and suspension choices I've made this just isn't possible, so the trans tunnel it is.
I do plan on using DEI insulation products on the lines so I believe I should be in pretty good shape. Also, since the car is injected with a return style system the fuel should have plenty of opportunity to release any heat it does absorb.

Thanks for the input, it's ALWAYS appreciated!

- - - Updated - - -

Great looking work again CarnalSupply, and I am glad that you are finally over the FLU ( nobody deserves that ) . . . and it's great to watch you as I too am in the same boat of tackling all of the work myself and learning every step of the way . . . it is a great feeling of accomplishment to watch your ( and mine ) skills improve as you work your way through the project. I just remember the words that kb67Mopar told me . . . if you weld it in and and you don't like it, cut it out and weld in a new piece of metal . . . it can all be redone ( hopefully we don't have to redo too much of the fabrication work that we tackle )

Looking good CarnalSupply - keep the pictures of the progress coming . . .

Literally every time I come up against something new I think of you and your GTX; we're like the blind leading the blind, LOL!
The one saving grace for me is my years (decades) of working on cars, both street and race, so the "why" part of the equation is easy, it's the "how" that's sometimes daunting. Keeping the "it's all doable" demeanor makes it all possible.
 
If your both blind then you must be terribly gifted haha, great work!
 
Over the weekend I got a chance to work on the Fury some more so here are the results.

I was able to finish routing and mounting the fuel lines (1/2" aluminum), which as I mentioned in a previous reply, will be wrapped in heat shielding from DEI. I met with their folks at SEMA yesterday and found a really bitchin' "shield" that mounts (via stainless hose clamps) directly to the exhaust system, so I'll be using that as well.

Here are some shots of the fuel lines completed:

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I made a simple bracket to mount the bulkhead fittings to at the front end of the trans tunnel, but instead of welding the bracket in place I decided to use 2 1/4-20 riv-nuts and panhead bolts, that way I can remove the bracket when it's time to install or remove the engine/trans. In fact, all of the mounting points for the fuel line were made using 1/4-20 riv-nuts; those things are AWESOME!

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In a previous post I also mentioned I was going to build a cover to a) protect the perpendicular running fuel lines safe from snagging road debris, and b) to help deflect exhaust heat away. Here are some shots of the finished shield, which, like everything else, is held in place by 1/4-20 riv-nuts.

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This shot (looking across from the passenger side) gives you an idea of just how much space there is between the floor and the fabbed cover; there will be tons of room for air to circulate helping to keep the lines cool.

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Once I got the lines and their mounts finished I moved back to the trunk where the lines pass through the floor. Finishing off this area was pretty simple, I just fabbed up a couple of triangular shape pieces of 16g for the sides and a rectangular piece for the backside and spotted them in. The last picture shows just how protected the fittings and lines will be; no worries about things crashing around in the trunk and snapping off an aluminum AN fitting.

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While I was at SEMA I had a chance to meet with a number of manufacturers regarding different parts of the build, and boy was that helpful! I am now TOTALLY sold on using Lizard-Skin sound deadener as well as their ceramic heat shield. Both products are sprayed on, are 100% water-tight when cured, and should make a HUGE difference in both the sound and heat dissipation within the car. I'm going to spray both the inside and outside with the sound deadener then follow it with a couple of heavy coats of the heat shield. This will eliminate my having to use any seam sealer and will remain paintable if I choose to go that route.

That's it for a little while; I have to travel for business and won't be back to working on the car until some time late next week.

C'ya!

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I'm at a point where nothing too exciting or glamorous is happening but I have been making some serious progress in getting the chassis finished, after which I'll be moving on to some small body panel replacement, wiring, steering, pedals, etc.

Since I've gone to coil-overs in the rear I felt like the stock upper shock mounts should be reinforced. At first I figured the rear bars of the roll-bar would be sufficient (they mount directly above the upper shock mounts) but when I mocked up the bars I found the angle between the bars and the floor was much to acute to give the kind of support the shocks would need (in the vertical plane) so I installed a piece of 2" x 4" rectangular tubing between the wheel tubs. At each end I reinforced the tub with a piece of 4" x 8" x 1/8" steel. Now the shock mounts are tied in to WAY more of the cars overall structure and should also make an even more secure mounting spot for the rear down tubes of the roll-bar.

Here's a shot (from the rear) of the tube running from side to side. The tube is welded to the floor across its entire length on both the front and rear.

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Here are a couple shots of the end plates looking into the tubs from outside the car.

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Tomorrow I'll be back at the shop cleaning up welds throughout the entire car in preparation for some self-etching primer. Like I said, not very glamorous but its progress!

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Dang Bob, you must have 500 miles of weld laid on that car. Next line of Miller welding helmet's will probably have your picture on them..lol. As always, great work!
 
LOL Prop,

I was blowing out the shop today and could not believe all the metal shavings I've created with all the cutting and grinding, but now you make me realize the car has actually GAINED weight with all those welds!

My theory is this: race cars built from street cars always benefit from having all seams fully welded as opposed to the factory "intermittent" welding, so I'm not going to leave a single seam unwelded. If all goes to plan you'll see a picture of my Fury when you Google "stiff" or "rigid".

BTW - I'm VERY pretty and my picture would make for a striking model on next years helmets!
 
Spent hours grinding on the interior today as well as finishing up some welding, so once I get some primer shot, fab in the sway bars and steering column, the chassis will basically be done. I cannot believe I've finally gotten to this point!

Here are a couple shots of the floor and tunnel after 7 hours of grinding:

 
Maybe we can nick name you "Black Booger Bob" cause I'm sure that's exactly what you had after all that grinding haha. Prop took the words right out of my mouth "miles of welds", it will be very interesting to see this one come together or even better yet what you'll do with it! Keep after it, your getting close
 
WoooooHoooooo, a four day weekend and I spent every day in the shop; loved it!

As Dev (747) pointed out those black 24 grit ooogies could be a real issue with all the grinding I've been up to but since my mom didn't raise a complete idiot (only a partial one) I was making good use of my particle masks. Just for you Dev, a selfie of me in all my grinding glory:

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Enough of the silliness, here's what I've been up to:

With the car on the rotisserie I have great access but it's pretty limited as to what I can fab up in the interior so I decided to make 4 rolling stands that each fit up around and against the frame rails. I lower the chassis down and it comes to rest about 24" off the ground, TOTALLY solid (just like it was on the chassis plate) and still able to be moved around.

Here's a shot of the two fronts stands:

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Once I got the stands fabbed up I started focusing on the driving position, roll bar, and steering column, so in went the driver seat, which I powered up using a battery from my cordless drill. What I found is when I put the seat in a position that's comfortable for me (trying to mimic the position of my CTS-V) everything fits together really well but it leaves me with only about an inch or so between the seat-back and the roll-bar, so I'm going to move the roll-bar back a couple inches.

As for the steering column, I found an awesome deal on a 35" Ididit with tilt (under $400 delivered on Amazon) and it will show up on Tuesday or Wednesday. Once it shows up I'll get the exact seating position lined up then look to get the pedals, but I'll hold off a bit for those (trying to be $$ conscious).

Here are a couple shots with the dash, seat, and roll-bar in place:

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Hey Carnal Supply . . .

The picture with you laying on your side was doing wacky things to my brain ! ! !

So here . . .

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Much better . . . you're not laying down on the JOB ! ! ! ( smile )
 
LOL, I wasn't laying down, I had my legs wrapped around a pole and was hanging parallel to the ground while gring off more f'd up welds! Pretty acrobatic for a fat old man!

Hey Carnal Supply . . .

The picture with you laying on your side was doing wacky things to my brain ! ! !

So here . . .

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Much better . . . you're not laying down on the JOB ! ! ! ( smile )
 
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