'64 Fury Pro-Touring

[Satans Fury]

WHOA ! ! ! Looking good CarnalSupply ! ! ! WOW . . . so that's what a panel is supposed to look like when the bodywork is done and it's in primer . . . boy does that look GREAT ! ! ! ( I'm trying to get life matters out of the way and get to MY bodywork too )

Keep up the great work . . .

Hey, thanks Larry!

I tell ya, the AMD quarter is friggin' beautiful! When it comes time to buy panels for the Khanvertible don't waste money on another brand of sheet metal, definitely stick to the AMD pieces, they are FAR superior to the other manufacturers out there (yes, I've tried 3 different brands).

One note if you do use the AMD stuff: DO NOT take off the e-coating before welding! I made a HUGE mistake by not reading their web-based information (didn't know it was out there until I was done) and AMD makes a point of telling customer NOT to take off the e-coating; you can weld right through it. Damn, I wish I'd have known that beforehand. Oh well, now you know.

TTYL,

BW

 

[Satans Fury]

Oh damn, I can't wait; I just ordered up my front and rear sway bars from Speedway Engineering! I have sweated bullets for literally years (been working on the car for 10) over their placement and ordering but finally picked up the phone and ordered them, so here's what I've got coming:

Front - 1 1/2", 49 spline with 18" steel arms
Rear - 7/8", 48 spline with 14" steel arms

The rear arms can be installed "as is" but the fronts will have to be bent, so I'm sending those off to Jimmy (my friend and AMAZING fabricator) so he can put a 24 degree bend in them.

I was going to try and mount a stock style rear bar but the truck-arms and lowered ride height conspired against me, making the install WAY more difficult than I wanted so I decided to go with a straight bar placed behind the axle (mounted to the car) with arms running forward to the rear of the truck-arms. The two pix below show the mounts tacked into place:

The picture above shows what a cramped fit it is with the Watts Link and coil-over mounts, but I got it all to fit. I'll be capping off the Watts Link mount to increase its rigidity.

The driver side mount was actually pretty easy, there was nothing in the way so I just mimicked the measurements from the passenger side and tacked it in.

I'm going the "SSBB" (Soft Spring Big Bar) route so I'll be dropping the front spring rate from the current 620lb coils to 500lb to begin with while running 210lb coils in the rear. From there we'll see what happens.

As soon as the sway bar parts arrive I'll take some pix and post them, and in the meantime I'll be cutting, welding, grinding, and sanding away!

 

[69 GTX]

Wowser that's some big sway bars! I take it you like high speed sharp corners.....

 

[Satans Fury]

Wowser that's some big sway bars! I take it you like high speed sharp corners.....

LOL, nope, not me, I'm just an old fart that rolls along at 50mph in the fast lane!
Seriously though, running the SSBB setup is akin to what GM began doing with Trans Ams back in the mid to late '70's, so you get a comfortable riding car that rails around corners, and with the weight of my car (BIG *** car with a big block) we figure it will need all the help it can get going around corners. Besides, I can always put in smaller bars

 

[conv67bdere]

Hey, thanks Larry!

I tell ya, the AMD quarter is friggin' beautiful! When it comes time to buy panels for the Khanvertible don't waste money on another brand of sheet metal, definitely stick to the AMD pieces, they are FAR superior to the other manufacturers out there (yes, I've tried 3 different brands).

One note if you do use the AMD stuff: DO NOT take off the e-coating before welding! I made a HUGE mistake by not reading their web-based information (didn't know it was out there until I was done) and AMD makes a point of telling customer NOT to take off the e-coating; you can weld right through it. Damn, I wish I'd have known that beforehand. Oh well, now you know.

TTYL,

BW

Thanks for the Heads Up Bob . . . but 67 is the "bastard year" that nobody makes much in the way of "good" replacement parts - I've had to hand make all the parts that I needed and I've got all my panels welded in place already . . . I'm good to go ! !

On my next project ( you know there will be a next ) I'll make sure I keep that coating on the panel if I use the AMD panels.

Thanks,
Khan-vertible ( mad scientist build )

 

[hemijoe]

carnalsupply

have not been here in a while but from what i see your coming along nicely great work

and here is what i have been doing

 

[Satans Fury]

carnalsupply

have not been here in a while but from what i see your coming along nicely great work

and here is what i have been doing

Hey Joe,

Great to hear from you; hope all is well.

Sorry I haven't visited in a while, I'll try and get caught up.

Take care,

Bob

 

[hemijoe]

Hey Joe,

Great to hear from you; hope all is well.

Sorry I haven't visited in a while, I'll try and get caught up.

Take care,

Bob

so how much more needs to be done befor you fire it up for the fidst time

 

[Satans Fury]

so how much more needs to be done befor you fire it up for the fidst time

Hey Joe,

I haven't purchased any of the rotating assembly, so at this point firing up the Fury is still a ways away. A the moment I'm finishing the suspension (installing sway bars) and after that I'm finishing up the body-work then moving on to the electrical system install. Building and installing the engine is a no-brainer by comparison so I'm trying to get the hard stuff out of the way first.

 

[Satans Fury]

It's been a week or so since I've been able to work on the Fury, and it'll be at least another week until I can, but I've been accumulating parts and pieces for the front and rear anti-roll bars, including the bars, pillow blocks, heims, etc.

Here's what I have so far:

Pillow blocks for the front bar (1 1/2" gun-drilled)

Rear bar (7/8" solid) with steel arms:

Front bar mocked into position so I could measure the arm angles:

Looking down at a piece of 1" rectangular tubing I cut and bent to get all the angles I need for the arms, which are being bent by my buddy Jimmy at his shop.

Looking at the same 1" rectangular tube from head on. The short piece of rectangular tube sticking out from the frame below the A-arm pivot (right in the center of the picture) is the 3" bump stop I temporarily tacked in place so I had a consistent spot for the tire to stop turning. Since the Art Morrison front suspension does not have any type of bump stops built in I'm going to have to fab something up before I'm done.

Same component, different angle:

Here's a view of the rear bar, which I have to mount behind the rear axle, similar to how and where it's mounted on a Cup car. Turns out the truck arms don't leave a lot of room to mount a bar in front of the axle. I'll fab up some drop mounts from the frame rails down to the pillow blocks (not shown) and wallah, like magic I'll have my rear bar.

 

[Satans Fury]

It's been a couple weeks since I've worked on the Fury; was waiting for parts and very busy with work and tradeshows, but todau I got back to work and finished up the rear sway bar.

I patterned the rear bar layout after a NASCAR Cup car, mounting it on pylons behind the axle.

Tomorrow I'll pull all the rear suspension out and final weld everything. After that I'll focus on getting the front bar mounted, and luckily, it should be much easier than the rear.

Driver side view:

Passenger side view:

Rear view:

Cup car rear suspension:

 

[Satans Fury]

UPS showed up Thursday with a box of new toys, including Wilwood Dynalite calipers and rotors for the rear and a truss for the diff, so I spent Saturday trimming the truss to fit the diff and got it welded in place. I've got bolt on caliper mounts on order so as soon as they arrive I'll get the calipers and rotors set up.

Since I'm running a floater diff I'm running 8-bolt rotors that bolt to a flange inboard of the wheel mounting flange.

Do I actually need a truss on the diff? From a strength point of view, no, probably not, but with the the Watts Link pivot welded directly to the diff housing I am concerned the side loading of the Watts will stress the diff and develop cracks or actually tear the case.

Knowing welding the truss could bend the housing I tacked it in place then moved around (left to right, sside to side) running 2" - 3" beads until the truss was completely burned into place.

 

[hemijoe]

that rear sway bar is ok for a nascar track but very impractical for the street as it will get hung up on speed bumps and uneven pavement as it is to close to the ground line of the rear tires

 

[Satans Fury]

that rear sway bar is ok for a nascar track but very impractical for the street as it will get hung up on speed bumps and uneven pavement as it is to close to the ground line of the rear tires

Hey Joe,

Been a while; hope all is well.

Yea, that was a concern as well but a couple things:
1) the bar doesn't hang any lower than a stock fuel tank
2) the bar is a couple inches above the mounting pads for the rear end; I think the angle I took the picture from makes the bar appear lower than it actually is
3) the ride height of the car is going to be pretty darned low, so I'll have LOTS of things to worry about hitting

 

[Hemirunner]

Why wouldn't you put the bar in the trunk and run links down to the top of the housing? Especially with the low ride height.

 

[Satans Fury]

Why wouldn't you put the bar in the trunk and run links down to the top of the housing? Especially with the low ride height.

Hey Hemi,

The fuel cell is going in the trunk and since I don't know what size or the exact placement of the cell I didn't want to compromise the space by running the bar in there.
Admittedly, if I have clearance issues with the bar when the car is finished I will probably move the bar to the trunk but for the moment I prefer it where it is. Hopefully dumb luck will be on my side and it will all work out well.

 

[Hemirunner]

I hope it works out for you. That car looks to be real low.

 

[Satans Fury]

I hope it works out for you. That car looks to be real low.

As you can imagine, so do I.
To put the bar height into perspective, it is virtually parellel with the rear end housing, but with it being behind the rear I do realize it's vulnerable.

 

[Satans Fury]

WWAAAYYYYY to hot (108 outside, 117 in my shop) to do any fab work but I did spend some time mocking up my new rear calipers and rotors. I'm using Allstar Performance bolt-on caliper mounts. I've never used a bolt on mount before, and I have been somewhat concerned, but after mounting them I'm much more comfortable with them; they fit TIGHT around the axle tube.

Everything went together real well and below are some pix showing the progress.

I didn't want to take any chances on clearances so I went ahead and mounted a tire/rim combo and have tons of room. Here are a couple shots, one from the rear, one from the front.

 

[conv67bdere]

Looking good there Bob . . . sure like the looks of those discs in the back . . . you seem to be making good progress - Keep at it !