Mike67
Well-Known Member
Are the gauges taking temp at different locations? That might be the decrepancy...I wonder what was the temp range on a factory gauge ; H= ?,?...
67 GTX 440 Engine Temperature With AC
- Thread starter 67GTX440
- Start date
'67- you said factory shroud; is it the plastic one that covers the whole radiator, not just the metal one that covers upper half? Also, maybe your old fan drive is not locking up all the way to drive fan when the higher temp is telling it to.
67GTX440
Well-Known Member
One is the factory sender right below where the heater hoses go into the block. The other taps into the plug next to where the heater hoses go into the block. Both are electrical senders. They are just inches apart.
67GTX440
Well-Known Member
I assume the two tics on the factory gauge are minimum and maximum operating temp. If they mean if between these two tics, don't worry, it would be nice to know what the tics represent. Mine seem to be about 160 to 220.
Mike67
Well-Known Member
I tried finding something that states the range on your car but no luck...even called a couple of places that refurb/ sell them....
Can you swap the leads? Assuming they are the same sending unit... If youre running normal on the factory gauge and not boiling over you might be ok...
I would definitely take everyone's advice and at minimum change that 195 stat to a 180 or less... In Jacksonville I'm betting you don't have 3 days a year below 60 so there shouldn't be a need to have a 195...
Can you swap the leads? Assuming they are the same sending unit... If youre running normal on the factory gauge and not boiling over you might be ok...
I would definitely take everyone's advice and at minimum change that 195 stat to a 180 or less... In Jacksonville I'm betting you don't have 3 days a year below 60 so there shouldn't be a need to have a 195...
67GTX440
Well-Known Member
It is the plastic one. I have the Hayden 2947 fan clutch on order and will see if that makes any difference.
Ranger16
Well-Known Member
I don't know if 15 degrees is an accurate figure or not, but lets remember, he's passing 90-95 degree air through the condenser to remove heat from the refrigerant. Now that hot air has to pass through the radiator and is expected to remove even more heat from the radiator, on a car that was not sold as an A/C car.
Your best bet is to start with the thermostat and report back with the results.
67GTX440
Well-Known Member
Car was a factory air car. I just had Classic Air rebuild the under dash unit and bought a new under hood kit from them. Should be pretty much as factory with the exception of the Sandin compressor.
Ranger16
Well-Known Member
OK, I stand corrected, but I'd still start with the thermostat. That HAS to help.
TxDon
Well-Known Member
Interesting, I have the same result with the two gauges as you. In my thread someone said it may be a non-problem. With new cars today we get used to them never overheating with the A/C on but back in the day they all got real hot if you were stuck in traffic for awhile and you would see the luxury cars with A/C pulled over with their hoods up...
What are the dimensions of your factory fan? I'm thinking of using this 20" high pitch unit:
67GTX440
Well-Known Member
7 blade 17 inch.
Mike67
Well-Known Member
I was reading an article in hot rod yesterday where they asked multiple vendors about common mistakes with installing after market ac and cooling system requirements. One of the vendors cited that typically a 7 bladed fan with a 2" pitch no smaller than 17" should be used. They made a flex fan recommendation but it don't remember which exactly..
67GTX440
Well-Known Member
Maybe. I don't know internally. A temoerature probe pushed through the radiator from the back side still shows over 200 degrees after shutoff.
67GTX440
Well-Known Member
Not sure what the rubber piece is in the picture of your hood. I don't have that on my car. What is its function? To keep the fan from pulling air through the grill but over the top of the radiator? Was there one originally on a 67 GTX?
Don't know, this is a 69. Always figured it is a seal of some type. Hood to radiator. Extended idle heat management is critical, this seems to be part of the recipe. There is also a slight gap between the shroud and theradiator that I was told is correct. Looks like it should be flush in contact to me.
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