'69 charger r/t-se: Building my dream car

[conv67bdere]

Because of the texture of the fleece, it's a little bumpy but solid as a rock at this point.

Hey Speedy - maybe when you're done with the resin, you could shoot a coat of the undercoating stuff on the top of it to give you a nice, uniform look, and then shoot it with paint ( if needed ) so it'll match everything else . . .

Just a thought . . . man is that looking GOOD ! ! !

 

[tallhair]

It's gonna be cool anyway and I'd be pretty proud if I was able to fab that custom shroud up not matter what the final finish is. If you want it smooth would you be able to sand it and paint it with some kind of gel coat or something? Maybe rough sand it up and use some more of the resin then smooth sand it?

 

[Mr.SpeedFreak]

No sweat, and those are not NooB questions at all Speedfreak. Take a look at your questions...a lot of folks would have no clue what you're talking about. You been doing car & resto work long enough that you don't even realize the complexity of your questions. That sounds like a real good place to run a ground from the alt! As far as the un-insulated butt connectors, I should have mentioned they can be a little tough to find. I buy mine in bulk at a local electrical supply store. All the chain stores and hardware stores don't carry them around here. Radio Shack has a very limited supply/size of them. My splice for the fusible link is probably 2" out from the bulkhead, under the hood. I would say the easiest way to make that wire w/ fusible link is to get the ring terminal and fusible link connected to the wire, attach to the starter relay, run through the bulkhead and then cut the wire to length under the dash for not too loose or too tight of a connection to the black wire. The fusible link is also connected with a heat shrink covered, non insulated, soldered butt connector. When you run the wire through and make your splice to the black wire under the dash, leave yourself a little slack. If you have too much slack under the hood you can pull the wire to the inside a little, which is easily hidden. Also, having a little slack available allows you a little play if you need to unplug the connection at the bulkhead for any reason

Pretty excited to see how that Shroud turns out for you. Gotta say, pretty cool! Keep up the good work man.

Ya know you do have a point there, thanks man! Between talking with my dad, studying my wiring diagram and you teaching me the ways of your jedi master wiring, I'm starting to feel a little better about my understanding of everything lol. I think I could figure it out looking at my wiring diagram, but what would you suggest doing at the firewall where the wires for the voltage reg and ballast resistor are since I'm eliminating them both? I figure I basically just need to splice whatever I need to get voltage to my coil but not exactly sure :shruggy:

Here's a pic of my diagram if that helps. I was going to take a better look at everything when I get back to the shop tonight


And that's funny 67 that thought crossed my mind yesterday, but I'll probably end up just sanding it a little smoother before paint like tallhair mentioned. I got the third coat on last night and with this much resin applied it should smooth out pretty easily





Tonight now that this coat is cured, I'll be flipping it over and cutting the rad core template out so I can glass the inside with two layers of mat. Hopefully have it finished and painted by the end of the day tomorrow
ccasion14:

 

[440+6]

That shroud looks great, I can't believe your just a kid lol.
An S/F embossed into the top would have been cool.

 

[747mopar]

"Sweet" looks pretty darn good Speedy, did you put anything like wax paper or plastic wrap on your mold?

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Can't say for sure since I pitched the original harness in favor of an aftermarket one but I think you should have one wire that is only hot while cranking and another while in run position because of the resistor. I'm assuming your not running the resistor style ignition. That would be the only thing I think you'd have to really check into "which one has juice in both positions".

 

[daytona kid]

I heard of putting a toyota/or something similar)type alternator on our cars that eliminates a good bit of wiring. Can anyone elaborate on that. Or if you know of a thread about that just give me a link, so I don't hi-jack.. thnx

 

[747mopar]

Mancini sells them or you can just buy a one wire alternator that will eliminate the voltage regulator and only requires one wire "literally". Tuff makes a nice one that you can get from Summit Racing. Sorry for the hijack Speedy

 

[Mr.SpeedFreak]

:head_smack:

That shroud looks great, I can't believe your just a kid lol.
An S/F embossed into the top would have been cool.

Thanks 440+6, yep the big double 2 birthday is next week lol. Damn that would've been awesome! I wish I would've had the logo done already and I probably could've stamped it in the resin.

"Sweet" looks pretty darn good Speedy, did you put anything like wax paper or plastic wrap on your mold?

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Can't say for sure since I pitched the original harness in favor of an aftermarket one but I think you should have one wire that is only hot while cranking and another while in run position because of the resistor. I'm assuming your not running the resistor style ignition. That would be the only thing I think you'd have to really check into "which one has juice in both positions".View attachment 168781

Thanks 747, and I thought about it, and definitely should've :head_smack: but I didn't have any laying around and needed to get started, so I went on without it. Probably going to have to do some surgery with the cutoff wheel but we'll see

And yeah that could be possible, I can't say for sure either.. but like my dad suggested if all else fails just get everything else hooked up and wired and turn the key and see which wire has power, splice it into the blue to the coil and should be good to go. Just wasn't sure if Will or anyone has experience with this bypass or any handy diagrams or something. Maybe I should dig through the pertronix threads on here

And no problem about the hijack guys, I haven't heard of the toyota thing but this Powermaster 1-wire is the same one Mancini sells I just got mine through Summit. Basically like a chebbie alternator how the fan is external with the pulley, so the "swing/swivel" bracket will need modification to mount it. Mancini sells a bracket kit that ended up looking pretty much exactly like what I did modifying my original one haha. If you go back a couple pages Daytona I posted pics of how I made it work, wasn't difficult at all and the belt lined up perfect without any issues. :icon_thumleft:

 

[Propwash]

You'll have to refresh my memory Speedfreak, what series Petronix ignition will you be running again? On my MSD 6AL it required a +12V trigger wire (key to start), and a +12V (key on) signal to work properly. On your schematic above, that is the brown wire of slot Q on the connector and Blue w/stripe from the slot N on the connector. The solid blue wire is no longer needed. I spliced those two wires together and than ran that single wire to the MSD box, and then a positive wire and ground ran from the MSD box to the ignition coil. The two wires for the magnetic pick up came out of the msd box and out to the distributor. Pretty sure your petronix would be very similar to all that depending the type/series of petronix you're running. The overall key is that you not only want juice running to that coil with the key on, but you also need it when the key is to start. Those are obviously two different circuits from the ignition switch (Brown and Blue w/stripe).

The green wire around the alternator you will not need it anymore, junk it. An important thing to note, since you are eliminating the three wire set up for your alternator, you'll notice you'll lose that purple wire that runs to your horn relay. You need that wire (unless your really good at screaming out the window, getting all Dave Mustaine and stuff). That is a +12V wire that supplies power all the time. There's plenty of places to grab +12V power that will work. What I did to keep the harness clean under the hood and minimize splicing into the harness, is I took that brown and blue w/stripe wire that was running to the MSD box for the ignition coil and spliced them together under the dash before the bulkhead connector, and ran a single wire to the bulkhead. So now I had an extra slot on the bulkhead connector. I used that extra slot to run a wire through for the positive feed to the horn relay. On the back of your fuse box you will see female terminal connectors connecting to male slots tied to the fuse slot contacts. You'll also notice the female terminal connectors have piggyback connectors so you can stack wires on the same circuit. I piggybacked a wire of the Cigarette/Dome circuit and ran that wire all the way out to the horn relay. You can buy piggyback female or male connectors at some hardware and electrical supply stores.

Hope this helps for now!

 

[Mr.SpeedFreak]

Thanks prop! I think I get what you mean, so since I'll deal with the horn relay later, would it be ok to splice the brown and blue w/tracer together at the firewall and then connect them to whichever wire runs to the coil? (I think it's one of the solid blue wires in the firewall pic below, since I have a solid blue coming out of the harness by my alternator and my diagram shows a solid blue going to the positive coil post ?)



Also, do I still attach the black and purple to the back of the alternator along with the big 2 ga. to my battery?

And I'm running the Pertronix Ignitor 2, I was thinking basically I needed to get the key and run 12v to the coil, and run the black and red wires in the dizzy to their respective coil posts and all shoild be right with the world? Haha


So basically I should remove the brown and blue pair connector, splice the brown and blue w/tracer together, and connect that splice to one of the remaining solid blue wires (whichever goes to my positive coil stud)?

And thanks again for all the help man, every reply I've learned something new and gotten a little better understanding!
LOL "go all Dave Mustaine", here's one for 747's weekly tune idea in honor of that one haha one of Megadeth's best lesser known songs
[video=youtube;GbgzSVzE8l4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GbgzSVzE8l4&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/video]

 

[PFG MOPAR]

I'll take that first trial one off your hands

:head_smack:
Thanks 440+6, yep the big double 2 birthday is next week lol. Damn that would've been awesome! I wish I would've had the logo done already and I probably could've stamped it in the resin.

Thanks 747, and I thought about it, and definitely should've :head_smack: but I didn't have any laying around and needed to get started, so I went on without it. Probably going to have to do some surgery with the cutoff wheel but we'll see

And you can make a new one with your logo !!
:headbang:

Seriously, I need a shroud for my Plymouth .. Gotta go measure it and see if it will fit :toothy10:
boy, you could make a side business out of this and make some upgrade cash .. :icon_kidra:


Mike..

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Oh .. and this Megadeth song would be more appropriate :headbang:

[video=youtube;GQqxwkX6PLI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GQqxwkX6PLI[/video]

Mechanix !!!

"Whoever thought you'd be better
At turning a screw than me, I do it for my life
Made my drive shaft crank, made my pistons bulge
Made my ball bearings melt from the heat"

:toothy10::icon_kidra::toothy10:

Mike..

 

[HYRDGOON]

Mancini sells them or you can just buy a one wire alternator that will eliminate the voltage regulator and only requires one wire "literally". Tuff makes a nice one that you can get from Summit Racing. Sorry for the hijack Speedy

I also bought the TUFF 100 amp from Summit

 

[hunt2elk]

yep the big double 2 birthday is next week lol.

Damn Speedy, you're not even half used up yet lol. I'm more than twice your age and you know your way around these cars far better than me. It sure is nice to see someone from a younger generation interested in something other than video games/social media.. Keep doing what you are doing and you will be able to accomplish anything you want in life. Your Dad must be plenty proud of you.

 

[tallhair]

You'll have to refresh my memory Speedfreak, what series Petronix ignition will you be running again? On my MSD 6AL it required a +12V trigger wire (key to start), and a +12V (key on) signal to work properly. On your schematic above, that is the brown wire of slot Q on the connector and Blue w/stripe from the slot N on the connector. The solid blue wire is no longer needed. I spliced those two wires together and than ran that single wire to the MSD box, and then a positive wire and ground ran from the MSD box to the ignition coil. The two wires for the magnetic pick up came out of the msd box and out to the distributor. Pretty sure your petronix would be very similar to all that depending the type/series of petronix you're running. The overall key is that you not only want juice running to that coil with the key on, but you also need it when the key is to start. Those are obviously two different circuits from the ignition switch (Brown and Blue w/stripe).

The green wire around the alternator you will not need it anymore, junk it. An important thing to note, since you are eliminating the three wire set up for your alternator, you'll notice you'll lose that purple wire that runs to your horn relay. You need that wire (unless your really good at screaming out the window, getting all Dave Mustaine and stuff). That is a +12V wire that supplies power all the time. There's plenty of places to grab +12V power that will work. What I did to keep the harness clean under the hood and minimize splicing into the harness, is I took that brown and blue w/stripe wire that was running to the MSD box for the ignition coil and spliced them together under the dash before the bulkhead connector, and ran a single wire to the bulkhead. So now I had an extra slot on the bulkhead connector. I used that extra slot to run a wire through for the positive feed to the horn relay. On the back of your fuse box you will see female terminal connectors connecting to male slots tied to the fuse slot contacts. You'll also notice the female terminal connectors have piggyback connectors so you can stack wires on the same circuit. I piggybacked a wire of the Cigarette/Dome circuit and ran that wire all the way out to the horn relay. You can buy piggyback female or male connectors at some hardware and electrical supply stores.

Hope this helps for now!

I'm so glad you are back to posting Prop ... feels like all is right with the world again

 

[Propwash]

I'm so glad you are back to posting Prop ... feels like all is right with the world again

:icon_thumright:....Thanks, and have no fear tallhair, I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night.


No problem Speedfreak and to answer some of your questions, for a straight line single wire for positive coil, all you need to do is make sure the brown wire and the blue w/trace splice together. That unified wire runs to your Pos coil terminal. The red wire off your distributor also runs to the pos coil terminal, and the black to ground. With that being said, I hand built my harness and ran the wires straight to where they needed to go. I'm picking up on that you do not want to modify your harness like that, but connect the wires up in the harness to do basically the same thing, but keep it the way they were strung out in a factory orientation... If that's the case, the answer is actually looks to be pretty simple:

That blue w/trace wire comes out of the fire wall, runs the harness and ties into same plug connection at the voltage regulator as the solid blue wire that runs up to the ballast resistor, which is the one that is lying on your pinky in your top pic above. So, if you connected that solid blue wire into the brown and blue wires that run into the other connector, you should be good.

The other solid blue wire that goes into the same connector as the brown wire (that's resting on your middle finger), is the wire that leads out and hooks to the +POS on the coil. Confusing yet?...lol The meat and potato's of it is, your +12V Key to start (blue w/trace) already ties to the blue wire that connects to the ballast resistor. So, no need to splice the blue trace into the brown at the firewall if you just go ahead and connect those three wires in your hand all together. Because now from that point you have you 12V key start signal, 12V key on signal and the wire that will feed the POS coil (Blue-seen in your second pic) all tied together. Easy enough? And again the red and black wires from your distributor go to the POS and NEG on the coil. You would need to keep the blue w/trace and solid blue wire that connect together with a terminal connector (and would have hooked to the factory voltage regulator), intact. Wrap them up good, don't want no arc's.

As far as your question on the black wire and purple horn wire, If retaining the factory harness I would recommend what MAD electrical shows to do with that (link below). You're going the route of running power to the battery (different then MAD's drawing), but still would be eliminating the factory black wire from the alt.
Again, if your retaining all of the factory harness your pink could be hooked to the alt for the horn relay. Last but not least, test it all out before wrapping everything up. If you have a small 12V lawn equipment, hobby or motorcycle battery take a chunk of 10 gauge wire run it to slot J on your bulkhead connector. Also ground the battery to your chassis. Take a voltage test light or multimeter, have someone hold the key to start quick, make sure there's voltage at the connector for POS coil...then do the same with key to run/on.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges2.shtml


Good luck man......I'll be offline tearing up the snowmobile trails and causing trouble this weekend, but will swing back in Sunday night. I'm sure you'll do great getting her all plumbed in.

 

[Mr.SpeedFreak]

Man I can't thank you enough for all this help Will, really saved my @ss with figuring all this out. I probably would've been chasing my tail for hours before the lightbulb would go off upstairs haha. I just jerry-rigged a jumper with two male spade ends to bridge the two plugs (make sure it works before I go chopping and soldering) and it did the trick perfectly!

Damn Speedy, you're not even half used up yet lol. I'm more than twice your age and you know your way around these cars far better than me. It sure is nice to see someone from a younger generation interested in something other than video games/social media.. Keep doing what you are doing and you will be able to accomplish anything you want in life. Your Dad must be plenty proud of you.

Hell, I don't know about that Elk, you've come so far on your car with such amazing results that I'm sure I'll still have plenty of questions left in project to come to you and the guys with haha. But really, thanks for the compliments, feels good to know I'm at least on the right track :icon_thumleft:

There we go Mike, nice choice in tunes! "Why the hell didn't I think of that?" Haha! And yeah if this shroud comes out good I just might have to start making them for people!

 

[JHyatt14]

Hell of job you're doin Mr. SpeedFreak. I went with the one-wire alternator on my setup just to eliminate these headaches lol. Wiring makes my head spin. I agree with the other fellas, it is impressive for someone your age to be getting this involved and have this much knowledge. You're gunna be a wizard by the time you're 30. I'm only 29 years old myself but I think you've got me beat as it stands right now. Keep it up brother!

 

[Mr.SpeedFreak]

Maiden-fireup Progress Report

Well guys sorry I've been kindof a ghost on here while I've been getting Frankenstein good to go. All my wiring connections are made (but messy as all hell for the moment) and I got the chance to give it a shot last night with my dad, a good friend from school, and girlfriend here for the festivities haha. Don't worry I'm cleaning up all the wiring as we speak lol


I turned it over with the coil disconnected to get the oil going, then reconnected it and gave it a shot. Put some gas down the carb and had some backfiring issues, and noticed it was taking a really long time for the fuel to prime, with still none coming out at the carb. Wondering if my pump was bad we disconnected the main line at the pump, no gas, so we capped the filler neck and blew through a hose connected to the vent until there was fuel at least up to the pump. At this point I checked the timing to see what's up with the backfire, and noticed I had the timing 180 out. No problem, got it flipped around and cranked some more, now finally with fuel coming out the jets, but no life. Checked my battery and saw it was only at about 8.5 volts so we called it a night while my dad took it to recharge overnight



Got the battery back this morning just so I can get the wiring cleaned up while my dad is off at the river, but I couldn't help giving it a quick try on my own when my mom showed up to check everything out haha. Gave it a couple hits at the throttle, turned the key and frankenstein finally gave a first little flash of life! Kept working the throttle for about 10 seconds before I let it quit. We're right there guys! Gonna check/set my curb idle, keep cleaning up the wiring, and wait til my dad shows up to do the honors. :grin: I'll check back in later, back to work!

 

[hunt2elk]

Sounds like it is getting real close Speedy. Maybe the timing is off just a bit yet?

 

[tallhair]

Don't forget to get video !! Nice YF homage too