• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

71 GTX Build

Are you going to all 4 disc brakes? this weekend I removed the cobbled together mess that was the stock proportioning valve and the SSBC adjustable one (which leaked a tiny bit), and replaced it all with a wilwood adjustable one. Braking is VASTLY improved. I was having a problem where it felt like there was either no vacuum help, or too much. I had a theory that something was plumbed wrong, and it was somehow fighting itself.

Great job on the car! I look forward to seeing more.

sjd
I am going with all Disk brakes by Wilwood and will be switching to manual vs power. With the engine build in progress, we will lose some vacuum which impact the power brakes. From what I researched, the manual master cylinder setup should work just as well.
 
With the engine build in progress, we will lose some vacuum which impact the power brakes.

I agree yet a small part, disagree or doubting. My car came with power brakes AND A/C. Yes, you will lose small amount of vacuum. I'm pulling 15 PSIA of vacuum but would hit around 17 without the vacuum port with its current set up. Will it impact the power brakes is where I'm not 100% agreeing. And no, not trying to argue or anything.
 
Suspension is going in and the fuel system along with brakes later this week. Body shop started in the Air Grabber hood as well. Some update pics:

image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
 
I agree yet a small part, disagree or doubting. My car came with power brakes AND A/C. Yes, you will lose small amount of vacuum. I'm pulling 15 PSIA of vacuum but would hit around 17 without the vacuum port with its current set up. Will it impact the power brakes is where I'm not 100% agreeing. And no, not trying to argue or anything.
I meant to say it may impact braking. However, another reason for ditching the power brakes is to clean up the engine bay a bit. I talked with a number of guys with pretty heavy cars who swore they couldn't tell the difference between stock power brakes over the Wilwood tandem manual setup. So for me it is trying to find the right balance of form and function.
 
I meant to say it may impact braking. However, another reason for ditching the power brakes is to clean up the engine bay a bit. I talked with a number of guys with pretty heavy cars who swore they couldn't tell the difference between stock power brakes over the Wilwood tandem manual setup. So for me it is trying to find the right balance of form and function.


That makes more sense crahill. Guess it's a matter of choice and or preference.
 
GTX suspension is in. Fuel tank assembly installed and lines will be hooked up soon. The brakes go on this week as well. The goal is to get her back on her feet soon. My bank account never seems to get time to catch up. I just dropped a mint it seems on the Borgeson Power Steering box setup, but after all the research, it seems like the most logical option to get the extra clearance and firm feel that I want. I really like the minimalist look in the engine compartment and don't want to overcrowd things. Here are few update pics:

GTX-9.jpg

GTX-10.jpg

GTX-11.jpg

GTX-12.jpg
 
Love the look of Wilwood disk brakes! Going to start looking at wheels real soon. Probably go with 17 inch and as fat as possible in rear :)

Pics:
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
 
Suspension complete, fuel lines complete, brake lines 95% complete, and fenders/doors/valence installed. I blasted all the pedal assemblies and had them powder coated as well. I finally got to order something more fun in new wheels and tires. They should be arriving next week and will be on the car shortly afterwards. This weekend I am working on restoring the rear tail light housing. It is in pretty bad shape, but I refuse to buy a restored one off eBay. I have to patch some holes, install new sockets,paint, and redo the harness. Some update pics:

image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
 
Would you have a picture or two of the ground strap and wiring going to the fuel sending unit?
 
I don't have the wiring in yet, but next time I head over to shop I will see if I can get you a pic of the ground strap.

Craig

Thanks. Also, that strap, is it a long one or a short one? I know they made a couple different ones is why I asked. Can't seem to find a picture of mine before I took it apart
 
Thanks. Also, that strap, is it a long one or a short one? I know they made a couple different ones is why I asked. Can't seem to find a picture of mine before I took it apart
It was very small. I also believe there is some debate to it's effectiveness and some people have reported it is not needed to ground the Sending Unit since the fuel straps can accomplish this, but I am going to have it installed as precautionary measure.
 
It was very small. I also believe there is some debate to it's effectiveness and some people have reported it is not needed to ground the Sending Unit since the fuel straps can accomplish this, but I am going to have it installed as precautionary measure.

I think it's needed for the fuel gauge to work properly
 
I think it's needed for the fuel gauge to work properly
I know that in theory it is needed, but the retainer ring, tank, and straps are all in contact with each other and attached to the body. However, since my car is undercoated, I am making sure it gets installed, but if I had to do it over, I would solder a ground to the sending unit and attach it to a better ground. Here is a thread that argues both sides of the issue.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/fuel-tank-sending-unit-ground-strap.252748/

Craig
 
Blasted the tail light housings and patched the holes. I will sand and prime them tomorrow. Got my tires and front wheels as well today.

image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
 
Primed then painted the outer shell of the tail light housing. I patched the holes with JB Weld quick set epoxy sanded, then skimmed coated with Evercoat Metal to Metal. I sanded this down and then sprayed a high fill primer over the whole housing. I am not overly concerned about perfection so all in all I was pretty happy to only spend $20 in paint and other stuff. Also, I read a study about the reflective properties of paint and light. White showed to be the best followed by chrome. I am testing out the chrome paint since I have items I want to use it on if it lays down ok. After the outer side dries, I will tape things off and spray the inside.
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
 
Inside buckets painted. Tomorrow I will start working the harness. I plan on going to LED bulbs for added brightness and durability.

image.jpeg
 
I think it's needed for the fuel gauge to work properly
I wanted to follow up with you on this. I went to the shop today and discussed this with the body guy. We are not going to install the strap. Instead we are going to solder a pigtail to the sending unit and attach it to a proper ground. The reason is the strap can be problematic based on friction from road vibration. We decided to just eliminate it altogether for a more secure solution. Just wanted you to know why there are no pictures.

Craig
 
That would work too, instead of the strap. Where did you decide to attach to a ground source at?
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top