What a Party !!!!
71airgrabberRR,
I've been meaning to ask you about the primer you sprayed on your 72. Can you tell me a little bit more about it? Both of my projects are pretty much equal parts surface rust, rattle can primer and thin, weathered original paint. I'm toying with the idea of stripping them down and priming them in black as you did.
Did you just DA the car with 80 grit? I'm alway wearing of using power tools on the body for fear of destroying the bodylines on the panel. How do you treat surface rust? Does that primer seal the surface against rain and humidity? Are you treating that primer coat as just a temporary protective finish or will you do your final paint and bodywork over it?
Thanks
Chase 383,
The primer I use on my cars is made by Southern Polyurethanes. It's a 2 part epoxy. I like to use the black as a starting point / first coat. That way when you are sanding your normal gray colored primer it shows when you are getting close to breaking through to bare metal. It acts like a sealer also, so once you spray it on, the car will not rust, as it does when you just spray a regular "rattle can" gray on bare metal. You can also spray it over all of your body work just before your normal base coat starts. Body fillers adhere to it very well. You can go on their web site and read about it to get more information.
I use it as a base for all of the other body work that follows. I initially used this for metal protection on this car. I like the look though. It looks tough............ kind of sinister.
With this car I sanded it down to bare metal using my DA sander and 80 grit paper. I only went this route because the finish on most of the car was the original paint. If your car has a lot of paint on it, I highly recommend that you try to get it media blasted if that is an option. The bare metal is the best way to start and after its blasted, it has a finish that the epoxy primer can bite into. If you stay in one spot for a length of time with a sander, it may be possible to damage a body line. But I think you would really have to mess up in order for that to happen.
As far as a rust treatment, I like the old stand by.......... Ospho. Just follow the directions and you will be fine.
I hope this helps..........................
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Yesterday I was cutting off the trunk floor extension on the passenger side. That was when I realized that it is actually installed before the rear quarter panel reinforcement brackets. So in order to get all of the original metal out, I had to drill out the spot welds and separate the end caps from the rear of the car.
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This is the part that I was trying to get to.
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Once this was done to both sides, I test fitted the new AMD trunk floor extension on the driver side. I have to say, I am very impressed so far with how it fit.
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Now I know why they offer the quarter panel with the brackets............ I probably should have ordered them too. So if any of you are getting ready to replace the trunk extensions / quarters on your 71 -72 Plymouth, learn from my mistake.
My original parts should clean up decently in the blast cabinet though.
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Then I mocked up the inner wheel house opening. Again, the fit was very good.
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Then I started cutting off the trim work from around the passenger side quarter panel. I have most of the original quarter panel removed now.
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That was yesterdays progress................
Then the misses and I went to the Christmas party when she got home form work. It was a GOOD one !!!!!! Needless to say, she drove home........... I had a good time blowing off some steam with my buddies from work.
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So today I made some more good progress.....................
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I cut out the damaged section of the inner roof support. The I hammer / dollied the inner sheet metal into correct position. Once everything looked good, I gave it a test fit with the inner wheel house section.
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Here is another photo of the trunk floor extension.
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Once I was happy with the fit of the inner wheel house, I used 2 1/2 bolts and bolted the outer section in place against the inner. On these wheel house sections, the factory had 3 1/2 alignment holes that make sure the halves are properly positioned.
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You can see one of the bolts in this last picture. It is at the lower right hand side at the very end of the wheel house.
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Then I used a few of the the Cleco's to secure the two sections in place once everything was aligned.
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These parts will come back out again before too long. This is simply the "mock up" stage. I want to make sure all of the metal is in the proper position before any welding is started.
Once the few remaining outer trim strips from the passenger side quarter are removed, I will burn out / wire brush the remaining seam sealer in the trunk floor area.
That will be followed by some blasting work.
Stay tuned !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Merry Christmas.