72 Satellite Gen III Hemi Restomod
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supergluehero
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My exterior window felts finally came in. The rears didn't fit that great. Also I had great trouble adjusting my passenger rear. It feels like it's binding terribly. I messed with it for a long time but never got it half decent.
I got my pressure plate, clutch and bell housing installed. The existing crank bearing had to be swapped out for the TKX. The bearing came out with a puller, but the bushing did not. We had to get really creative to get it out. Picture is below of what we did, I can explain more if anyone is interested.
Now what I've run into is I don't have enough spacers for the CSC. I'm supposed to use 0 to 2 1/4" spacers and I need 4. So now I'm stuck until I can talk to SST to see what is up.
I got my pressure plate, clutch and bell housing installed. The existing crank bearing had to be swapped out for the TKX. The bearing came out with a puller, but the bushing did not. We had to get really creative to get it out. Picture is below of what we did, I can explain more if anyone is interested.
Now what I've run into is I don't have enough spacers for the CSC. I'm supposed to use 0 to 2 1/4" spacers and I need 4. So now I'm stuck until I can talk to SST to see what is up.
supergluehero
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Had some time today to prep my wheel wells for suspension installation. Got them painted, undercoated and my front splash shields installed.
Also couldn't help but install my clear parking lamps. I forgot one of the bolts is sheared off and I need amber bulbs now, but I'll take care of that later.
Also couldn't help but install my clear parking lamps. I forgot one of the bolts is sheared off and I need amber bulbs now, but I'll take care of that later.
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supergluehero
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Got a new spacer from SST that solved my problem on the throw out bearing. However, today I went to install the transmission and stripped the threads out of the bell housing. The directions said 50 ft-lbs which seems high considering the engine side only got 35 ft-lbs and it's not aluminum. Also the lock washers started separating and sliding out from under the bolt heads. Hopefully SST can make it right. Otherwise I'm out $460.
Also noted that the transmission isolator hardware was completely wrong. Hopefully I can get that sorted as well. Stay tuned ....
Also noted that the transmission isolator hardware was completely wrong. Hopefully I can get that sorted as well. Stay tuned ....
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Damn
supergluehero
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SST was great and sent me a new bell housing with some revised installation instructions. Problem is this time the runout exceeded tolerances so I had to order some offset pins. Took me a while to figure out the best method for removing the stock ones. Turns out drilling a blind hole in the pin the same diameter as your punch worked really well. That keeps the punch from bouncing off between hammer blows.
I got my offset pins yesterday, but they are too long, so now I have to cut about .070" off so they don't bottom out in the bell housing. Otherwise I risk cracking the bell when I tighten my mounting bolts. Stuff is never as easy as it should be.
Pin length out of the block:
Bore depth in bell housing:
I got my offset pins yesterday, but they are too long, so now I have to cut about .070" off so they don't bottom out in the bell housing. Otherwise I risk cracking the bell when I tighten my mounting bolts. Stuff is never as easy as it should be.
Pin length out of the block:
Bore depth in bell housing:
I had to shorten mine as well.
70chall440
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Great thread, I am doing about the exact same thing/s with my 71 Charger although my car is not nearly as nice.
I found your thread bc I was looking for a picture of the dash support bracket which you have 2. Subsequently I discovered I have the wrong parts for my car...
I found your thread bc I was looking for a picture of the dash support bracket which you have 2. Subsequently I discovered I have the wrong parts for my car...
supergluehero
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I started today trying to spot where my shifter was going to go through the tunnel. In the rear most position the existing cross brace was in the way. After turning the shifter plate 180deg, it looks to be in a good position. I'm still a bit unsure though not having bought my center console yet or installing my new bucket seats. I'm sure I can make it work with a longer shift handle, but I only want to cut once. Original position below.
I was finally able to measure my runout with the new pins. I got .007" pins which should have taken me from .0105 to .0035. instead I'm at .0075, still out. The high spot was still in the same spot so maybe they warped or were out of spec initially. Guess I'll be talking with SST again.
I was hitting so many walls I decided to mock up my driver seat from Procar. First off I knew the mounts weren't going to fit, but I thought I could work with them. Not only do they not fit the car, they don't fit the sliders either. They are really poorly made. I'm going to have to cut off all the mounts and figure something custom out.
I was finally able to measure my runout with the new pins. I got .007" pins which should have taken me from .0105 to .0035. instead I'm at .0075, still out. The high spot was still in the same spot so maybe they warped or were out of spec initially. Guess I'll be talking with SST again.
I was hitting so many walls I decided to mock up my driver seat from Procar. First off I knew the mounts weren't going to fit, but I thought I could work with them. Not only do they not fit the car, they don't fit the sliders either. They are really poorly made. I'm going to have to cut off all the mounts and figure something custom out.
70chall440
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Thats about where mine landed.
supergluehero
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Which position is your shifter in? It's a bit hard to tell from your pictures. Also, did you get the offset shifter to put it in the factory location? I'm going with a 2015+ Challenger console, so mine will be in the middle.
70chall440
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Not exactly sure what you mean by position, but it is where the 71 B or any of the E bodies are just in front of the T bar cross member. I have not gotten an offset shifter however I might, I want the shifter to be forward a little like the 71 B with bench/buddy seat would be because I am going to be using a mid length PG.
supergluehero
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The TKX has two shifter locations. The stock position is in the picture above. By removing the 6 bolts in the picture below you can rotate that plate 180deg and move the shifter forward ~3". Mine will clear the cross member only in the forward position.
70chall440
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Gotcha, I was severely mistaken, my shifter comes up behind the cross member. I don't know what I was thinking there.
Here is a picture
supergluehero
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So I finally figured out my bell housing runout problem. The housing was bolt bound and couldn't move. I opened up the diameter on the mounting holes and presto, I was in spec. I also received my center console today. It's in great condition and I got it for a really good price. The issue now is that even with the shifter in the rear position, it will be at the front edge of the shift boot. Also the shift boot is too far away from the driver seat with me in a comfortable driving position. I foresee making a crazy Z shaped shift arm in my future. I hadn't considered that if the center console was flush with the dash it would block my floor air vents. I'll have to live with a small gap. Next up is reinstalling the transmission and mounting it to the cross member. Also need to cut my shifter hole and replace any support that I have to cut out.
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cal30_sniper
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You ever settle on a wiring harness pass through location for the terminator?
I’ve found that the terminator fits perfectly inside the old AM radio. I’m thinking about mounting it inside the old radio shell and depinning the harness to go through the old speedometer cable hole. I’m moving the battery to the trunk, so the larger gauge power and fuel pump relay wires won’t need to run through the firewall.
I’ve found that the terminator fits perfectly inside the old AM radio. I’m thinking about mounting it inside the old radio shell and depinning the harness to go through the old speedometer cable hole. I’m moving the battery to the trunk, so the larger gauge power and fuel pump relay wires won’t need to run through the firewall.
supergluehero
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That's a pretty cool idea. I'm going to be using the classic dash bezel so I'll be losing the radio position to additional gauges. I like the idea of using the speedometer cable hole for the harness. The problem is my computer is going to be mounted in the glove box (I think). So there's no way the harness will reach that far from the driver's side. The plan for now is to run it up underneath the heater box and go through near the center hump on the passenger side down low. My concern is that it'll be too close to the headers. As soon as I can mock up the motor, I'm going to see how close it is. If it's far enough away or I think I can make a heat shield I'll do that. Otherwise I might have to go through the cowl or some other less ideal solution.
Your shifter needs a little something to wake it up. shifter up.
ckessel
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It needs a blue pill.
supergluehero
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I was a bit nervous, but I went ahead and cut out my cross member for the transmission and cut the shifter hole
.
I was able to put the transmission all the way in. I still have a little clearancing to do. The top will shrink up once the car is level. I haven't measured yet, but I think the shifter is in a better position than I was expecting.
Once the clearancing is done, I'll need to cap off the open ends of the cross member and figure out how to reinforce it.
.
I was able to put the transmission all the way in. I still have a little clearancing to do. The top will shrink up once the car is level. I haven't measured yet, but I think the shifter is in a better position than I was expecting.
Once the clearancing is done, I'll need to cap off the open ends of the cross member and figure out how to reinforce it.
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