SublimeSixpack
Well-Known Member
I agree. Fabricating some of the parts you need can be therapeutic.
Advice for 1970 Sport Satellite
- Thread starter Moparfiend
- Start date
Two steps forward one step back...the way of old car revivals.....
Working the electrical with the good help of 72RR and Nacho. Waiting for my new ignition switch. Should be able to start the motor then!
Compresion on #4 looks to be 142psi which is promising will measure all 8 and report back.
OK so checking the fuel lines out I traced a clog at the tank main fuel line right at the tank. I blew out the main fuel line looks good. The problem is the sending unit and varnish in the tank. Soooo looks like I need to pull the tank and for sure replace the sending unit and possibly the tank. The tank outside looks perfect no rust. Inside very hard to tell may only be varnish whick I can clean I think. What are your thoughts replace the tank or try to salvage the old? I am very fund limited but don’t want to waste a lot of time trying to clean and use acid or other dangerous chems only to find it didn’t work very well.
Working the electrical with the good help of 72RR and Nacho. Waiting for my new ignition switch. Should be able to start the motor then!
Compresion on #4 looks to be 142psi which is promising will measure all 8 and report back.
SublimeSixpack
Well-Known Member
Is that 142 psi with all the plugs out and the carb open?
YES!
My 70 Road Runner had been sitting for awhile. It was a California car and the outside of the tank looked great. The problem was that over the years of sitting it developed this fine beige "silt" than continually clogged up my system. I thought I could outsmart it by installing a fuel filter both before and after the fuel pump. It didn't matter - the fine silt still got through and clogged up my carb - twice! Could I maybe have cleaned it out? Possibly. But I threw in the towel and bought another tank.
Two pictures for reference. This what my tank looked like.
This is what my tank looked like after I cut it in half. You can see the grit (and this was after I had washed it out). BUT, I do think it would have been possible to clean if I had tried.
Given limited funds, I would suggest to remove it and try to clean your tank. See how it goes and what the inside of the tank looks like when you remove the sender and get a peek inside.
Good Luck!
Hawk
Thanks this is exactly why I am asking. Sometimes it’s better just to go new and be done with it. Clogged carb issues can be costly and frustrating. I like the idea to try and clean ot and just see. Until I have the tank out its a crapshoot. What motivated you to cut the tank open?
SublimeSixpack
Well-Known Member
It'll be interesting to see what the reading is on the remaining seven cylinders.
Yes it will I will be able to get that done tomorrow!
I had replaced my tank, but the replacement (a good working tank, by the way) was not constructed the exact same way. The 1970 California tanks had a separate "little" internal gas tank that you can see in the picture. The intent of this thing was to reduce gas spillage by slowly absorbing gas, but slower than what you could pump it. So when you pumped the tank "full", the level decreased a bit afterwards and (supposedly) reduced potential spillage out the vent or gas cap.
Anyway, I cut up the tank because (a) I was curious about the construction of the tank and (b) I had to cut it up to throw it out in the trash. Now, before people flame me for being an idiot and being lucky not to blow myself up, I only cut it up MONTHS after I took it out, vented and cleaned it - just in case!
Hawk
Got the tank out and no rust but sludge on the upper slope. I found a new tank for $90 I just think okd tanks are not worth the hastle of cleaning. Lets see how it goes.
SublimeSixpack
Well-Known Member
I hope that $90 tank is a good one, because a lot of reproduction parts these days are junk.
SublimeSixpack
Well-Known Member
I was wondering what the purpose of that part was.
Hey Sublime I agree there is a lot of stuff out there that is either not engineered that well or use poor materials or both. Most if not all is made in China regardless. So yup I go in knowing its a crapshoot. I will pst pics when I get it and take some comparative measurements.
Hi esoxer I will let you know how it goes as I am getting closer to firing her up. She wont be road worthy right away so no major performance review initially but its a start.
Hi esoxer I will let you know how it goes as I am getting closer to firing her up. She wont be road worthy right away so no major performance review initially but its a start.
Well I just received a shiny new fuel tank and sending unit. Looks like the right one. Woll take measurements in the morning if I have time. Got a shot of the sending unit in tbe tank to verify that the pickup is seated at the bottom as well as the float. The resistance I measured in the sending unit when I had it out was like 10 Ohms to 300 Ohms if I remember correctly. How does the sending unit look to you guys?
Looks shiny!!!!
Hook up the sender with a jumper wire to the pigtail connector to verify your sender and gauge match before you install the tank. Factory ohm range is 10 to 72. Also re-use the original lock ring.
Hook up the sender with a jumper wire to the pigtail connector to verify your sender and gauge match before you install the tank. Factory ohm range is 10 to 72. Also re-use the original lock ring.
Hey Threewood jump where to where? A pigtail is just a dangling wire end so do yo mean in circuit (meter wire to center contact to the sender?) also I hear about a ground strap near the connector on the tank but saw no such strap or wire.
Thanks
JG1966
Well-Known Member
You need this strap or your gas gauge will likely not work properly. You can also run a ground wire from the fuel supply tube -- using a really small hose clamp -- to the underside of the trunk if you don't have the strap.
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Just a jumper wire from the sending unit wire, including one to ground to give you some room to test the sender on the ground. And that ground strap is essential for it to work.
Thanks JG I see what I need to fabricate now!
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