Advice for 1970 Sport Satellite

[Moparfiend]

Just a jumper wire from the sending unit wire, including one to ground to give you some room to test the sender on the ground. And that ground strap is essential for it to work.

Thanks Threewood ok so hook the tank sender up like it would be in the car including ground and the deflect the float and take the resistance readings. In order to more easily deflect the float I assume I can do this while the sender is NOT in the tank. Meaning if the sender is grounded to the car AND the sender wire connected.

 

[Billccm]

You can make a ground strap easily. Get some braid even cut it off a piece of RF coax cable. Use small hose clamps to attach, or get some earth grounding clips from a electronic supply shop, etc.

 

[Moparfiend]

Thanks Bill, two clamps and thick copper wire should work. Thats done.

I pulled the old sending unit ot. To pick up filter was off and the inlet completely clogged which was the reason why I couldn’t draw any fuel.

I did pull the old ring off Threewood and will use it as it does seem to be beefier than the two new aftermarket rings I have.

I did measure the resistance and it looks good 9 Ohms to 80 Ohms. The ikd sender was bad electricaly as well reading 100 Ohms in all orientations.

Onwards we go....

 

[Moparfiend]

While working the electrical and ignition system and fuel system I also have been working the engine. I now have my kickdown spring on and made sure there is no binding anywhere and that the kickdown is correctly adjusted as well as the throttle. Here is a pic.

 

[JG1966]

While working the electrical and ignition system and fuel system I also have been working the engine. I now have my kickdown spring on and made sure there is no binding anywhere and that the kickdown is correctly adjusted as well as the throttle. Here is a pic.
View attachment 554308

Nice work on the kickdown. I wish my 340 had been as easy (don't get me started on that)! Just looking at photo, don't forget to vent those valve covers with breathers/PCV valve, or you'll likely develop some oil leaks.

 

[Moparfiend]

Nice work on the kickdown. I wish my 340 had been as easy (don't get me started on that)! Just looking at photo, don't forget to vent those valve covers with breathers/PCV valve, or you'll likely develop some oil leaks.

Thanks JG always nice to receive compliments after working on ****.
So yes i was going to ad one vent and one pcv. What’s your take on what ports I should use after looking at my set up? The driver side is partially blocked by the AC. So I don’t know if I can use that side. I would prefer to use it though as well as the other side such that I use the ports on each valve cover closest to the firewall. This would be cleaner IMO.

 

[Billccm]

I see most with a breather on the drivers side (vent to air filter, or vent to atmosphere), and the PCV on the passenger (connect to carb port).

 

[Moparfiend]

OK the fuel tank is in and fit perfectly even with the original straps. Added the ground wire across the flex fuel connection. Hooked up the two vents and all is good!

I flushed the harline out with three cans of heat drawing forward towards the carb until it was clean.

This could easily been a two man job alignment of the tank and getting it strapped down. I had a small jack and wood block balancing with my boot on one corner and my hand on the inlet. I am sure you guys all know how that goes lol.

I love the peaceful feeling of working on my cars and bikes. I have a stereo in the garage AC for the summer. I would rather be there than in the house lol.

 

[MrJLR]

I replaced my fuel tank alone......what a PITA!!!!!

Jeff

 

[Moparfiend]

Ac Delco 65 Plugs are gapped and ready to go in.

 

[Moparfiend]

Changed from the yellow Tygon fuel lines to the correct lines. Tygon is only rated to 136F not good enough fot automotive applications. I did like it because it was clear but the clear filter I am using is good enough. Especially since I replaced the fuel tank and cleaned the fuel lines so well.

 

[Moparfiend]

OK looks like I’m ready to fire her up. Plugs and wires and distributor in. Just going through the checklist.

Whats the best way to prime the carb and start the engine?


Fuel system:
Fresh gas
New fuel tank
Cleaned fuel lines
New flex lines
New clear filter

Intake:
New Edlebrock
New Street Demon

Ignition:
New Pertronix Igniter
Red wire connected to Ignition #1
Plugs inspected and gapped
Wires ohmed out and inspected

Electrical:
E-Choke conn to Ign #1
New ignition switch and cable/conn assy
New fuses
Cleaned fuse box
Keeping my fingers crossed the electrical is a big unknown to me as Bubba messed with it real good!

 

[threewood]

OK looks like I’m ready to fire her up. Plugs and wires and distributor in. Just going through the checklist.

Whats the best way to prime the carb and start the engine?


Fuel system:
Fresh gas
New fuel tank
Cleaned fuel lines
New flex lines
New clear filter

Intake:
New Edlebrock
New Street Demon

Ignition:
New Pertronix Igniter
Red wire connected to Ignition #1
Plugs inspected and gapped
Wires ohmed out and inspected

Electrical:
E-Choke conn to Ign #1
New ignition switch and cable/conn assy
New fuses
Cleaned fuse box
Keeping my fingers crossed the electrical is a big unknown to me as Bubba messed with it real good!View attachment 555740

See the two vents on either side of the airhorn choke plate? Prime the carb with gas into those vents....a dropper or small plastic syringe with rubber tubing works well.

 

[Moparfiend]

See the two vents on either side of the airhorn choke plate? Prime the carb with gas into those vents....a dropper or small plastic syringe with rubber tubing works well.

You mean the larger opening that looks like the jokers mouth in blue?

 

[threewood]

You mean the larger opening that looks like the jokers mouth in blue?
View attachment 555753

Yes. Kind of tricky to get in without spilling so an eye dropper works well.

 

[Moparfiend]

OK well partial success. Previously the ignition smoked in the column nearly frying out the fusible link. The engine red ignition light came on ignition #1 as expected and I was able to crank. I did prime the two small holes in the carb with two syringe full of fuel but It did not start after multiple attempts. I have not checked for spark but strongly suspect its got sparc since the marvel mystery oil in the cylinders is smoking. I believe that its a fuel delivery issue since after about 10 tries cranking I see no fuel in the fuel filter/line. Wouldn’t you expect that many cranks to draw up fuel from the tank? Here are some cids of the attemts. I guess I cant upload videos darn..

 

[threewood]

Is the distributor / rotor clocked the exact same as you had it with the points? When I swapped mine I found the Pertronix was off about 10° from where I had the points set.

After you prime the carb through the vent holes, look down the airhorn and flip the throttle shaft...you should see the squirters squirt fuel. I bet you have fuel but timing is off.

 

[Moparfiend]

Is the distributor / rotor clocked the exact same as you had it with the points? When I swapped mine I found the Pertronix was off about 10° from where I had the points set.

After you prime the carb through the vent holes, look down the airhorn and flip the throttle shaft...you should see the squirters squirt fuel. I bet you have fuel but timing is off.

Hi Threewood you could be right but the cylinders were smoking from the open valve covers so I think there is sparc but I could be wrong. I did not add much fuel and that could also be the issue. I added ti the very small hole in the area I circled above. Not sure that was enough or the correct place to fill the bowl.
Also how the dizzy was originaly was not helpful as it was a complete unknown. Soo I found TDC pointed the rotor as best I could owards cylinder #1 and made that line up best I could with wire#1 sooo I could have been off in my alignment/clocking. I used the finger in the cylinder method to find tdc....

 

[SublimeSixpack]

When attempting to find TDC on #1 cylinder did you check the timing marks to see where they were in relation to one another?

 

[Moparfiend]

When attempting to find TDC on #1 cylinder did you check the timing marks to see where they were in relation to one another?

No when my finger blew out the hole as I bumped started it I assumed TDC and marked the damper with a painted line at 9 degrees. What timing mark are you referring to?