• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

anyone want a 505 stroker before i throw it in the bin

That is a nicely detailed engine bay, Ron.
 
thanks for the advice ron much appreciated.

only problem is I live in a small mining town and finding a mopar tech guy is like a needle in a haystack, closest one is probably 12 hour drive away. I have an old nascar tuner/racer from the states helping me nut out the problems via phone and email, hopefully get it sorted soon.
 
kiwigtx ill take any advice I can get mate, let me know please.

I have tried running 20* and the starter motor doesn't like it it makes big clunking noises that high and it is a hi torque mini starter ( powermaster xs torque) maybe need a better starter
those are garbage starters.. made in china...one chewed my flywheel on my 572 hemi... same clunking noise ...ordered and tried three in a row on my 528 six pack and all were faulty... I buy starters for a 98 ram truck and never had a problem they are mini starters and all the bugs are worked out it seems
 
Benno,
BTW, in all my years of hot rodding cars (over 50) I've never known anyone that had to use a 'locked out' distributor on a street/strip motor, and that includes many years of working and racing out of a major speed shop. We're not talking 'race only car' here. I know it's easy to get caught up in the glitzy and cool world of race parts, but they aren't meant for cars that have to idle and have good low end as street/strip cars do.
He doesn't "have" to run a locked out distributor but that one does not have any vacuum advance. It needs timing at idle, and 10 or 20 degrees isn't gonna cut it. Having some timing in will clean up that idle and improve the vacuum signal to the carbs, making it easier to tune the idle. Timing also affects A/F ratio so eliminating any advance curve removes one variable and allows you to focus on tuning the carbs. Most of the guys that run any advance have it all in by 2500 anyway. It's a big block stroker 4spd, the only time it'll see the bottom side of 2500 is idling or cruising... both events where you want timing in it. I run a 572 hemi with dual 800 edelbrocks and an MSD that's locked out at 32 degrees. It runs far better than most of the so called street cars around here.
 
He doesn't "have" to run a locked out distributor but that one does not have any vacuum advance. It needs timing at idle, and 10 or 20 degrees isn't gonna cut it. Having some timing in will clean up that idle and improve the vacuum signal to the carbs, making it easier to tune the idle. Timing also affects A/F ratio so eliminating any advance curve removes one variable and allows you to focus on tuning the carbs. Most of the guys that run any advance have it all in by 2500 anyway. It's a big block stroker 4spd, the only time it'll see the bottom side of 2500 is idling or cruising... both events where you want timing in it. I run a 572 hemi with dual 800 edelbrocks and an MSD that's locked out at 32 degrees. It runs far better than most of the so called street cars around here.

I guess we have differing opinions on how to set up a 'street' car and that's OK. On my end I just don't see any reason to go to a locked out distributor and then have to use a set-up to retard the timing so the motor will turn over. I read your post and don't agree with some of the things you said but that's what makes the world go round. Anyway, Benno has decided not to use it so it's a moot point. Also, looking at the pictures of Benno's beautiful ride, I get the impression that it will be spending 'most' of it's time "on the down side of 2500 rpm". I guess I'm not 'most' of the guys. I run a Mallory vacuum advance distributor on my max wedge with 14* initial, 22* total mechanical in at 3,000 rpm (for a total mechanical of 34*) and 12* of vacuum advance hooked to full manifold vacuum. Cruising down the road at 70 mph there is 46* total. Apples and oranges. Works for me...
 
yeh well with my overdrive box sitting at 60mph it is running at 1800rpm
I don't think he car will ever see over 5500 but I wanted something with lots of stomp when I wanted to use it and maybe take it around some circuit tracks maybe a couple times a year
 
Curious as to why? Cadillac used vacuum with their 500 cid stocker. Is there too little vacuum with the cam that's used?

I think it's all in the cam. The 500 Cad most likely had a typical low overlap cam so it would provide the typical passenger car off idle performance. No reason why a stroker 440 can't do the same thing. High overlap cams do not do low RPM stuff well. Sure the big inch motor will soak up some cam but overlap is overlap.
 
yeh well with my overdrive box sitting at 60mph it is running at 1800rpm
I don't think he car will ever see over 5500 but I wanted something with lots of stomp when I wanted to use it and maybe take it around some circuit tracks maybe a couple times a year

And with the MSD distributor you have (no vacuum advance) set up with low initial timing and mechanical advance coming in at a higher rpm (like colorado Dave has his set up) you will be cruising down the highway with around 14 degrees of timing. You'll be lucky to get any kind of driveability or mileage. It'll build heat very quickly too. If you don't want to lock the dizzy, switch to one with vacuum advance.
 
And with the MSD distributor you have (no vacuum advance) set up with low initial timing and mechanical advance coming in at a higher rpm (like colorado Dave has his set up) you will be cruising down the highway with around 14 degrees of timing. You'll be lucky to get any kind of driveability or mileage. It'll build heat very quickly too. If you don't want to lock the dizzy, switch to one with vacuum advance.

It would be interesting to see what kind of vacuum the motor pulls at 1800 rpm while cruising. If there's enough, I too, recommend a distributor with a vacuum can. Otherwise, you could try setting the initial around 16*, the mechanical (in the distributor) to 22*, for a total of 38* all in by 2,000 rpm. I seem to remember Benno saying that the gas available there is equivalent to 95 octane here. Might even get away with more advance in the distributor at less rpm if the motor doesn't object (ping).
 
I have had the initial upto 22* and 38* total and the motor is yet to ping, has not pinged once for me at any setting.

- - - Updated - - -

also sitting at 1800rpm in 4th gear the temp is good sat on 160F max, and it cruised quite well, lower rpm's like around 900-1200 the engine did surge a little
 
fugly has a website called diamondback engines he tells about dualquad tuning i took his advice on my 500 edelbrocks and its real consisent no problems at all with them!!!
 
If you're not experiencing any detonation try using springs that will bring it all in at 2,000 rpm.
 
okay i will try this, what is the benefit to bringing it all in earlier?

does it affect anthing with my cam as my cams sweet spot is 3000-6500
 
okay i will try this, what is the benefit to bringing it all in earlier?

does it affect anthing with my cam as my cams sweet spot is 3000-6500

earlier timing will not affect cam.
Bringing in timing early will help promote burn especially on a non stock cam,normally helps power . Get the most initial you can , probably about 18 will do to start then add total say 18 to 20 mechanical , you now have 36-38 total . Set your curve for all in at 2500 . If at this stage you have no problem with the starter kicking back go for a drive . In third at 2500-2800 give it a shot on the throttle whilst under load preferably going up a hill . Does it ping or not ? If yes you can put one of Don's 14 stops in and repeat . If it doesn't ping try bringing the advance in at about 2200 and repeat test . #Do these tests without a vacuum advance connected#.You want as much initial and total as possible . I run 38-39 total on my 440 with near enough to 11:1 comp on street 98 no problems .
Also try setting your carb linkage to progressive as per the Edelbrock instructions .

Tex
 
dizzy is vac can delete. whats the advantage of progressive? will that not make some of the cylinders too lean? the edelbrock intake is a open plenum to both sides, so it should be okay yeh?

i will definetly try these tests as soon as i get my new lifters in, thanks

- - - Updated - - -

Tex, wanna come up here for a holiday and tune my ride haha?

- - - Updated - - -

ill put the piss on
 
Street 98? Do they still let foreigners move to Australia? What does it cost for a US gallon of that fuel? "I'll put the piss on"? Explain, please...lol
 
Street 98? Do they still let foreigners move to Australia? What does it cost for a US gallon of that fuel? "I'll put the piss on"? Explain, please...lol

Dave ,
pump gas 98 octane haha
we try to keep the riffraff and smart alecs out .
it's $6.70 for a US gallon for premium 98 at the moment
I won't put the piss on - but I might take the piss out of you lol
Benno ,
as long as the carbs are jetted right won't be a problem on progressive manifold is dual plane and will feed fine .
Holiday all right !

Tex
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top