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That is a nicely detailed engine bay, Ron.
those are garbage starters.. made in china...one chewed my flywheel on my 572 hemi... same clunking noise ...ordered and tried three in a row on my 528 six pack and all were faulty... I buy starters for a 98 ram truck and never had a problem they are mini starters and all the bugs are worked out it seemskiwigtx ill take any advice I can get mate, let me know please.
I have tried running 20* and the starter motor doesn't like it it makes big clunking noises that high and it is a hi torque mini starter ( powermaster xs torque) maybe need a better starter
He doesn't "have" to run a locked out distributor but that one does not have any vacuum advance. It needs timing at idle, and 10 or 20 degrees isn't gonna cut it. Having some timing in will clean up that idle and improve the vacuum signal to the carbs, making it easier to tune the idle. Timing also affects A/F ratio so eliminating any advance curve removes one variable and allows you to focus on tuning the carbs. Most of the guys that run any advance have it all in by 2500 anyway. It's a big block stroker 4spd, the only time it'll see the bottom side of 2500 is idling or cruising... both events where you want timing in it. I run a 572 hemi with dual 800 edelbrocks and an MSD that's locked out at 32 degrees. It runs far better than most of the so called street cars around here.Benno,
BTW, in all my years of hot rodding cars (over 50) I've never known anyone that had to use a 'locked out' distributor on a street/strip motor, and that includes many years of working and racing out of a major speed shop. We're not talking 'race only car' here. I know it's easy to get caught up in the glitzy and cool world of race parts, but they aren't meant for cars that have to idle and have good low end as street/strip cars do.
He doesn't "have" to run a locked out distributor but that one does not have any vacuum advance. It needs timing at idle, and 10 or 20 degrees isn't gonna cut it. Having some timing in will clean up that idle and improve the vacuum signal to the carbs, making it easier to tune the idle. Timing also affects A/F ratio so eliminating any advance curve removes one variable and allows you to focus on tuning the carbs. Most of the guys that run any advance have it all in by 2500 anyway. It's a big block stroker 4spd, the only time it'll see the bottom side of 2500 is idling or cruising... both events where you want timing in it. I run a 572 hemi with dual 800 edelbrocks and an MSD that's locked out at 32 degrees. It runs far better than most of the so called street cars around here.
Curious as to why? Cadillac used vacuum with their 500 cid stocker. Is there too little vacuum with the cam that's used?
yeh well with my overdrive box sitting at 60mph it is running at 1800rpm
I don't think he car will ever see over 5500 but I wanted something with lots of stomp when I wanted to use it and maybe take it around some circuit tracks maybe a couple times a year
And with the MSD distributor you have (no vacuum advance) set up with low initial timing and mechanical advance coming in at a higher rpm (like colorado Dave has his set up) you will be cruising down the highway with around 14 degrees of timing. You'll be lucky to get any kind of driveability or mileage. It'll build heat very quickly too. If you don't want to lock the dizzy, switch to one with vacuum advance.
At what RPM does the total advance come in?
okay i will try this, what is the benefit to bringing it all in earlier?
does it affect anthing with my cam as my cams sweet spot is 3000-6500
Street 98? Do they still let foreigners move to Australia? What does it cost for a US gallon of that fuel? "I'll put the piss on"? Explain, please...lol