• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Bigger Headers, Slower Car

All I know is that if I had a 3-1/2" exhaust pipe, my farts wouldn't be half as entertaining. :carrot:
 
I’m also in the collector extension camp.
But there is likely a loss of TQ in the launch rpm/shift recovery region that may just be gone with the bigger tubes on that combo.

Don’t take this the wrong way, but that engine combo isn’t “hot” enough to make proper use of 2 x 3.5 headers.

But some extensions should perk it up.
I was thinking the same, just couldn't think of a nice way to express it!
 
I was thinking the same, just couldn't think of a nice way to express it!
I appreciate it, but I don’t care about nice.
My engine is what it is.
I’m just looking for ideas on how to get my .200 back.
 
Do a back to back with the extensions on the same day and report back!
 
The weather was a little worse (DA) but honestly the weather doesn’t seem to affect it a lot.
I checked the weather for Quaker yesterday vs 6-15. Yesterday was actually slighty better. Are these the 2 days you are comparing. Also looks like a big tail wind yesterday. Biiger header equals less velocity through the port. Less velocity has less pull on the carb. I'd try jetting it up 2-4 jet sizes. My bet is your car would like a Performer RPM intake. The 2" aren't ideal but they're not that far off. Looking at plugs after driving the car in the pits is useless. Push in the clutch, shut the engine off and coast to the end of the track. Bring a couple of spare plugs. Swap them then look at the plugs you pull back in the pits.
Doug
 
As mentioned, backpressure is never desirable but going too big for the combo will reduce velocity.

I would try extensions and also have a set that was a long taper/reduction from 3.5" to 3" or even smaller.

If you can't get it back to where it was the other set of headers was likely better suited to your combo.
 
HI,
Have you re-set timing for all In..
With a better breathing, Settings could be reached before it's wanted.. Less back pressure the motor is going to whined up quicker and Timing might peak earlier or latter... Might check for that..
Might and even have to change the springs in the distributor

good luck take care be safe
tim
 
I checked the weather for Quaker yesterday vs 6-15. Yesterday was actually slighty better. Are these the 2 days you are comparing. Also looks like a big tail wind yesterday. Biiger header equals less velocity through the port. Less velocity has less pull on the carb. I'd try jetting it up 2-4 jet sizes. My bet is your car would like a Performer RPM intake. The 2" aren't ideal but they're not that far off. Looking at plugs after driving the car in the pits is useless. Push in the clutch, shut the engine off and coast to the end of the track. Bring a couple of spare plugs. Swap them then look at the plugs you pull back in the pits.
Doug

6/14/24 6:17 PM, DA 3226
6/28/24 6:43 PM, DA 3800 appx
I'm just learning about the weather stuff, but I'm thinking lower DA is better.
Quaker runs roughly north to south, so looks like we did have tailwinds on 6/14, 11 mph if I am reading it right.
 
D/A isn't everything baro and water grains are a far larger influence than temperature/humidity. Then of course Quaker is at about 1100 ft elevation.
Doug
 
I checked the weather for Quaker yesterday vs 6-15. Yesterday was actually slighty better. Are these the 2 days you are comparing. Also looks like a big tail wind yesterday. Biiger header equals less velocity through the port. Less velocity has less pull on the carb. I'd try jetting it up 2-4 jet sizes. My bet is your car would like a Performer RPM intake. The 2" aren't ideal but they're not that far off. Looking at plugs after driving the car in the pits is useless. Push in the clutch, shut the engine off and coast to the end of the track. Bring a couple of spare plugs. Swap them then look at the plugs you pull back in the pits.
Doug
Is it necessary to use brand new plugs?
 
Is it necessary to use brand new plugs?
IF the combination is working well, I have no problems using 'used' plugs but if I'm trying to find out what the problem is, I will use new ones. Some say no way but after awhile, you find out what works and what doesn't......
 
MANY years ago, Jere Stahl (Stahl headers) told me, 'in order to use a 2" primary, the engine needs to make a minimum of 550hp'...I find that to be very accurate! 1-7/8" will be your best bet, depending on how much HP your engine makes.
 
MANY years ago, Jere Stahl (Stahl headers) told me, 'in order to use a 2" primary, the engine needs to make a minimum of 550hp'...I find that to be very accurate! 1-7/8" will be your best bet, depending on how much HP your engine makes.
I appreciate the advise, but I’m not changing headers again!
Thanks to you guys I have a few things to try that ought to keep me busy for awhile.
The main reason I changed headers is because the ones I had on there had two cracked primary tubes and were very old. They never fit well, exiting directly into the cross member. I couldn’t have put extensions on them if I wanted to.

It was hard to determine which header would fit my combo, Lakewood bellhousing, 11” clutch, mini starter. The Doug’s headers I have now fit much better and exit into the proper spot.

Another issue is it’s tough to get a lot of test and tune runs. Last Friday night my 4th pass was after 11 pm. That’s kinda late for me.
 
I can understand that situation. Years ago, I had bought (and waited forever) a set of Hooker 2" race headers, slip-on collectors, extra short primaries, etc.; that was back before the Holley Corp, bought the company from Gary Hooker. They were crap all the way through, cold-sprung, hit the T-bar x-member, etc, poor quality does not accurately describe them. I was frustrated and PO'd, so the next day as I sat looking through National Dragster for a decent header company, I happen to remember Stahl Headers, but they quit making headers for chassis cars for over a decade, at that point. I just happened to have Stahls phone number and called them, and to my surprise Jere answered the phone which was odd as he was never there on the weekends and this was a Saturady morning. So, the conversation went with my whining about the garbage Hooker product and he chuckled, then told me the Hooker story about how Gary had transfered the mfg process south of the border (Mexico), then proceeded to tell me about proper header sizing with HP requirements. VERY VERY smart fella he was, too bad he's no longer with us. If you want real quality, you just have to contact serious custom fabrication folks any more, that's a shame. Anyway, best to you and enjoy it all while you can. Oh, and yes I did have him build a set for me, never had any better, both for fit and performance...wb
 
Last edited:
MANY years ago, Jere Stahl (Stahl headers) told me, 'in order to use a 2" primary, the engine needs to make a minimum of 550hp'...I find that to be very accurate! 1-7/8" will be your best bet, depending on how much HP your engine makes.
That’s another way to go, build it for 550 hp.
 
If I remember right Stahl's headers always struck me as having smaller tubing then most of the other manufacturers.
But then Stahl seemed to specialize in junior stockers, with small displacements (265, 283 chevies). 40" long 1 1/2" tube fenderwells.
 
That’s another way to go, build it for 550 hp.
I haven't had the opportunity to do a header comparison like you have done, but I have 2"headers on three cars, one small block (yep, custom built to fit the oddball chassis), and two big blocks
The small block and first big block are both around 500hp ea, and the second big block will be 650 or so, (hopefully) eventually.
I can't say I've noticed a lack of torque, but then I always run with .mufflers in place. That may be why.......
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top