Bigger Headers, Slower Car

[padam]

I will say that almost everything I have been doing I try to accommodate a step up in HP, in case I do build that stroker some day.

 

[33 IMP]

Two of my 2"sets came with the chassis when I bought the car.
My hooker adjustables for my 62 (still in use!) were found at the OCIR swap meet, used, in the eighties. They've been repaired a few times, and coated, all eight pieces.

 

[furious70]

Engine masters has done several really interesting shows on headers collectors and exhaust piping. Worth watching before spending $500-1000 and the hassle of r&r a new set

 

[33 IMP]

Engine masters has done several really interesting shows on headers collectors and exhaust piping. Worth watching before spending $500-1000 and the hassle of r&r a new set

Agreed, but kinda late for Padam. Well, maybe not if he puts some extensions on (I'd be tempted to reduce the collector to three inches, and add 18" after that.
What's nice about extensions, they can be kinda cheap, and played with to find what works.

 

[PRHeads]

I’d be pretty surprised if some run-of-the mill 18” x 3.5” extensions didn’t show some improvement.

What’s the launch rpm, shift point, and fall back rpm?

 

[Photon440]

Well, it's been over a month already, I'd have thought that experimenting with a jet change by now would have happened.

 

[padam]

Well, it's been over a month already, I'd have thought that experimenting with a jet change by now would have happened.

That was last weekend. I wasn’t planning on racing this weekend, because my home track had a 3 day money race.
However, my wife kinda talked me into going.
You know how these money races are, usually 1 or no time trials.

I was going to try collector extensions first, then I made the decision to make no changes and go for consistency, and try to win some races.

Friday night I made 2 time trials, 1st round loss, buy back loss. Both losses red lights.

ETs
7.755
7.742
7.743
7.743

Saturday I made a couple of adjustments to try to slow down my RT. Seemed to work on my 1 time trial.
Unfortunately in eliminator my ET dropped almost .100. Because my clutch slipped a little more.

I could not get back on track after that.

 

[pedal2themetal]

Saturday I made a couple of adjustments to try to slow down my RT. Seemed to work on my 1 time trial.
Unfortunately in eliminator my ET dropped almost .100. Because my clutch slipped a little more.

I could not get back on track after that.

HI,
I think you mean speed up your RT which would give you a lower number in your RT. The RT (reaction time is the difference between the time the light goes green to the time your rig moves)

good luck take care be safe
tim

 

[padam]

HI,
I think you mean speed up your RT which would give you a lower number in your RT. The RT (reaction time is the difference between the time the light goes green to the time your rig moves)

good luck take care be safe
tim

Well, I was red lighting, so I wanted to slow my reaction time. However you want to say it, I wanted to not red light.

 

[33 IMP]

I've got two front tire setups. Depending on my lights determines which I use. If I'm running late, short tires. If I'm redlighting, tall ones. Rollout will change the e.t. tho, too.
(Wait, actually three front setups. 165 80 15, 185 60 15, and 235 75 15. The last has rollout from me to you!)
Also, Congrats Padam! Remarkably consistent laps for anybody, let alone a stick car!

 

[padam]

I've got two front tire setups. Depending on my lights determines which I use. If I'm running late, short tires. If I'm redlighting, tall ones. Rollout will change the e.t. tho, too.
(Wait, actually three front setups. 165 80 15, 185 60 15, and 235 75 15. The last has rollout from me to you!)
Also, Congrats Padam! Remarkably consistent laps for anybody, let alone a stick car!

Yeah, lulled me into a false sense of hope.

Somehow I’ve completely lost my ability to cut a light. I really need to figure it out.

 

[pedal2themetal]

HI,
What worked for me was staging shallow (barely tripping the second staging light) and then I would leave on the last amber. then adjust from there if its still to early the .. then when the last amber comes on say to your self like ONE then leave and so forth..

good luck take are be safe
tim

 

[dvw]

I race with a bunch of S/S guys with manual transmissions. R/T change = air gap. But you have to have a consistent starting R/T.
Doug

 

[padam]

I race with a bunch of S/S guys with manual transmissions. R/T change = air gap. But you have to have a consistent starting R/T.
Doug

That’s the adjustment I made Saturday.

My problem is that I’m running a clutch tamer, and any change in the linkage affects the tamer too.

With the ladder bar suspension I may be able to do away with the clutch tamer though. One more thing to try.

 

[padam]

After a few races into the season I usually can get in a groove on the tree.

Not this year. My lights are all over the place.

I’ve heard that some timing systems introduce random timing for No Box races to keep people from cheating with a box and leaving off the top bulb. Does anyone know if this is a thing?

 

[dvw]

After a few races into the season I usually can get in a groove on the tree.

Not this year. My lights are all over the place.

I’ve heard that some timing systems introduce random timing for No Box races to keep people from cheating with a box and leaving off the top bulb. Does anyone know if this is a thing?

Never seen that. But why would it matter if you leave off the bottom bulb?
Doug

 

[padam]

Never seen that. But why would it matter if you leave off the bottom bulb?
Doug

I’ve just seen it mentioned in Facebook posts where guys are discussing videos where the lights seem to flicker or skip. I have not ever heard it confirmed, and I think the cause of the flicker is most likely due to the camera shutters.

My problem is I count down from the top. I know that’s not the right way, but it used to work for me.

Last season I tried leaving of the bottom and couldn’t get used to it. I tried all kinds of stuff, and I just can’t get consistent.

I guess I’m going to have to try leaving off the bottom again. What I’m doing now isn’t working.

 

[dvw]

The bottom is tough to master and be quick. Much more consistent though.
Doug

 

[Geoff 2]

The header pri pipes control the velocity of the outgoing gas. Larger pipes reduce velocity. As rpms rise, the scavenging effect provided by the headers increases; more air is drawn into the cyl for more HP. So headers can be too big & reduce gas vel.

 

[Budnicks]

didn't read all the post,
#1 it's lean
#2 & needs header extensions, 15" to 18" worth

1st give away was
it's even slower when you took the air cleaner off
leaned out even more
(need a better air-cleaner element too (like K&N Gauze), tune to that also)
you need to read the plugs
may need a timing change now too

sometimes a longer 'smaller diameter' tube, will aid in low end torque too
the bigger tube will flow better on the top, need to address
what's going on down low too
may even affect how you converter stalls

good luck