1966Canuck
Well-Known Member
I would check resistance at the Flux-Capacitor ?
Well stated. And it's a 4 spddidn't read all the post,
#1 it's lean
#2 & needs header extensions, 15" to 18" worth
1st give away was
it's even slower when you took the air cleaner off
leaned out even more
(need a better air-cleaner element too (like K&N Gauze), tune to that also)
you need to read the plugs
may need a timing change now too
View attachment 1692448
sometimes a longer 'smaller diameter' tube, will aid in low end torque too
the bigger tube will flow better on the top, need to address
what's going on down low too
may even affect how you converter stalls
good luck
I have a K&N flux capacitor, good for an extra 20 hpI would check resistance at the Flux-Capacitor ?
You’re right about that.The 2-1/2” reducer/extension doesn’t sound like the hot set-up to me, but it’s basically free to try since you already have it.
But I am curious to see how it plays out.
My personal experience was similar when I went to the 2” primaries the torker intake has a higher rpm range. it was recommended to me to switch to the edelbrock Rpm manifold and I got all the low end torque back and then some and it still performs with in my desired Rpm range. Just a thought. I had the Torker 2.1964 413 Block .030 over
906 Heads, milled .100, stock size valves.
Gasket matched intake ports and bowl area ported to the DC templates.
Compression ratio is roughly 11:1
Lunati Hydraulic Cam Part# 10230906
In Ex
.509 .534 Valve Lift
235 245 Duration at .050
Rhoads Hydraulic Lifters
Lunati 73815 Single Valve Spring W/ Damper
Edelbrock Torker intake.
Quick Fuel 850 race carb (OOTB tune).
Ignition system is an MSD 6AL-2
From my experience the headers are too big, back pressure is not the issue gas velocity in the tubes are the issue. When I select of build a set of headers, I use engine simulation software to select tube size and length. When I build a set, I use pipemax software. Most sets I build are step headers, even race engines start a 1 7/8 and finish at 2 1/8 on most mopar big blocks. Have built 800HP combinations for NSSI switched out my old Hooker headers with 1.75" primaries and 3" collectors for a set of Dougs headers with 2" primary 3.5" collectors.
Neither of these have collector extensions.
I got out to the track Friday night, and found that the car slowed quite a bit
60' 1/8 1/4
Before 1.621, 7.623 90.20, 11.985 112.30
After 1.685, 7.687 89.70, 12.089 111.06
I think it bogged a little of the line, so matbe torque is down.
Later I removed the air cleaner/filter, and it seemed to slow a little more.
From this I am thinking it may be running lean with the new headers.
Can anyone recomend a move to get back the lost power?
Nice job Paul ! Feels good hitting every gear perfectly and getting a win to prove how good you are at rowing the gears. In the early 90's I went 11 rounds for the win at 42 running in Pro-ET . What a great feeling that is.
Wow that’s a lot of shifting!Nice job Paul ! Feels good hitting every gear perfectly and getting a win to prove how good you are at rowing the gears. In the early 90's I went 11 rounds for the win at 42 running in Pro-ET . What a great feeling that is.
Gus
That’s back before they changed the track right?
If I remember right I saw that paint stripe trick debunked as an old wives tale.I’ve read & reread and don’t see it——- paint ur extensions with a light stripe of white paint on one side. After a couple runs, see where the paint discoloration starts & chop the extensions at that point.(if I remember correctly). My 18” extensions had about 4-6” cut off them. This was a long time ago!!! May not be pertinent anymore.