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Builidng a stock appearing Hemi, WWYD?

I'll second that some of the FAST guys are getting those numbers out of 431 cubes and no headers but expect to spend over $15K.
 
Well, first off, you may well be happy with a very conservative engine based on a stock block/rods, 4.15" stroke iron head deal. They are not too bad to build if you take your time and find some deals.

I think this is really what I'm looking for. I'm not against going for more cubes, especially if the the cost is the same. Assuming I'm doing a relatively conservative build, what parts should I buy? A World block, Stage V heads pretty are much a given. Should I still use Callies for the crank and Oliver for the rods? Does anybody make an quality "off the shelf" piston?
 
I think this is really what I'm looking for. I'm not against going for more cubes, especially if the the cost is the same. Assuming I'm doing a relatively conservative build, what parts should I buy? A World block, Stage V heads pretty are much a given. Should I still use Callies for the crank and Oliver for the rods? Does anybody make an quality "off the shelf" piston?

Callies/Oliver stuff is boss...But you could also use a K1 crank and rods or similar. They are imported, but will fit a lesser budget. I would highly advise getting any import crank ground to the first undersize and call out your specs for clearance. The china grind always sucks...always.
Reworked OEM rods are not bad either if you buy them right. They are a bit heavy though. An aftermarket rod lets you use BB Chevy rod and pin sizes. That is much better.
There are lots of shelf stock type pistons for the 4.150 stroke. Most perf. manufacturers make them. I prefer Diamond.

A stock/reconditioned rocker assembly would be fine. I like the Mopar Performance blocks too. They are a great block for the money. They look closer to stock than some others. Even starting at a 4.5" bore there is plenty of room for overhauls in the future. Remember, you can have pistons made in virtually any bore size as you go.
A hydraulic roller cam is a wise investment too. Stock tin is cheap and works fine. OEM oiling system isn't bad either for a mild build.

Just keep in mind that using the cheaper parts will affect resale value..at least to people that know the difference. If you never sell it, who cares... On the flip side, if a cheap rod breaks...ouch!
 
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