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Can of rusty worms

I'm no expert, but I think that little copper or brass bar is supposed to be connected to something!
Yeah! Looks like it came off the pivot rod. Should be soldered (silver solder?) to the pivot rod, where the bent end of the blade 'sweeps' the rheostat windings. Would just need to be at the right angle, so the small bent end makes the full sweep.
I had a couple old units, and combined, to make one good one. Pretty sure it will work fine. Put 10 gallons gas in the tank, and the gauge registered just under a half tank.
 
Would have to be careful, not too much heat...but silver solder would join them. If I remember right, there's a flat cut in the pivot rod, where the blade is fastened.

I robbed the rod, cover, and blade off another, to make mine. The blade end on my old one, was flat wore out. Used a small screw/nut, to re-attach the metal strap on the one end.

One other little hint on those things, installed into the gas tank...on the full sweep of the float arm, you don't want the arm/float to touch the tank, top or bottom. Guess it grounds the circuit.
 
I now have a working fuel gauge! Took it to a guy that sells the senders and he fixed it.
Engine starts easily with the new starter. Those mini starters are powerful little motors. Amazing what some gear reduction can do.
I also received my in-dash tac from year one after nearly three months. Nice looking unit but the shroud was separated from the face. Hopefully it can be glued on or I may have to wait for another three months!

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Yes been there done that!! I pieced my cowl in with a good used left section from a 62 Dart.62 63 Plymouths and Dodges are the same. 64 65 went to a flatter cowl vent to the windshield. 62 63 cowl vent used Virgil Exner airplane raised cowl to the windshield.

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Picked up some shims from a local spring shop for $10 each to correct the pinion angle that I think is causing a vibration.

before the shims.

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Thatt seemed to do the trick and get rid of the vibration.

Now I've been having a nasty power steering pump leak.
I got this TRW pump from Nationalmoparts, so there's no telling how long it has been sitting. I replaced the case oring but it is also leaking from the shaft seal.
I have another TRW (small reservoir) from the poly that didn't leak, but the pulley shaft is a smaller dia., so the pulleys were not interchangeable.

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ordered a kit from steer & gear for the large TRW. It took a LOT of force to get the pulley to pop off the shaft. There's a thin layer of rust that was probably interfering with it.

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I took the threaded locking ring off, thinking I could slide out the shaft and pump components to replace the seal. After some reading, I found that this has to be pressed out and there are are some parts inside that may fall out of place while doing so. I decided to just pry the seal out by carefully folding the metal shell inward until I could pry it. There's a special tool to pull it out, but I don't have one and doubt they are easy to find. Took some work but got it out eventually.

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The new seal has an outer rubber sheath or coating, so a little lube around and inside the shaft seal, then tap it on with a deep socket.
Cleaned up the rust on the shaft with 600 emery, despite the shop manual saying not to. Pressed the pulley on and bye bye leaks!

Next up is the tranny shift cable leak. I plan to use some heat shrink on it, but I'm still waiting to pull the cluster when my replacement tach arrives from yearone. Looks like it'll be another 3 months at this rate.

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Looks like you be ready to cruise by the time the first snow flies in the great white north!
 
Next up is the tranny shift cable leak. I plan to use some heat shrink on it, but I'm still waiting to pull the cluster when my replacement tach arrives from yearone. Looks like it'll be another 3 months at this rate.

I went to Home Depot for my heat shrink. It's the kind with the heat activated glue inside. Everyone else carried the regular heat shrink without glue. Lowes has the right stuff but not the right size. Was more expensive too. But you probably have access to it.

My park cable had a place rubbed through it right where the clamp bolts to the floor. I had used the regular heat shrink and it didn't hold. So I removed it, cleaned it up with parts cleaner, applied a small amount of black rtv right where the metal housing was showing, not getting any on where the rest of the heat shrink tube needed to adhere to. Installed the heat shrink then installed the regular type over it for added protection. Useing it at the transmission ends are a plus too.

Tested a piece on a sparkplug wire.
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Finished repair.
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This is the "non glue" type.
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Nice price on those shims! I paid $30 for a pair of steel ones on ebay. Hopefully they did the trick. I have a go pro type camera on the way so I can mount it and record my pinion movement. I'm rocking s.s. springs. I am 4° down on the pinion as it sits.

Glad you have been enjoying your car. Debugging phase sucks. But it will get there and first couple of times you can drive it around without issue are worth it!

And a +1 to the glue lined shrink wrap. I didn't have any for my cable so I cleaned it with carb spray, used form a gasket adhesive and slid the wrap over it. I shrunk it down and the cable housing has been leak free.
 
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Glen

Great work on the pump and thanks or sharing the detailed info!

Justin
 
It's been a while since I've posted. Added the new in-dash tach and a few more gauges. I haven't connected the temp gauge yet because I can't get the plug out yet. Over the winter I hope to add a shroud and a new ignition system.

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Bought this nice looking Polara last year and enjoyed driving it all summer. I thought a lot about rebuilding the poly but I'm just partial to big blocks. There's just something about the sound of a big block I can't explain...just love it!
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So out comes the poly. Below is the 413 which seems to have little wear but I found some pitting in a cylinder. It's going to the machine shop to be inspected soon.

I could see the splash guards need replacing but it looks like some repairs will have to be made as well...

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Sweet ride doing a 440 for mine doing bodywork right now been lucky mine was born on the west coast and no rust but damn door dings.
 
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