QOTHL
Well-Known Member
You can get stuff like that from Richard OShields: 404-634-5760. I find him to be dedicated to helping with restoration needs.
Did you purchase your woodgrain panels?
Don's 1969 Charger Restoration
- Thread starter mopar4don
- Start date
You can get stuff like that from Richard OShields: 404-634-5760. I find him to be dedicated to helping with restoration needs.
Did you purchase your woodgrain panels?
mopar4don
Well-Known Member
I bought those years ago
QOTHL
Well-Known Member
I was giving a source for the clock knob.
I'm hoping to restore my woodgrain panels.
QOTHL
Well-Known Member
I don't think I'll be using stickers. Detroit Muscle has the woodgrain for console top plates that are better than what comes on replacements but if I can fix an original, I'd rather use that. The stuff that came on my new top plates looked like shelf paper. Peeled off like shelf paper too.
At any rate, you're doing a great job! Just wondering if you know off hand what page you posted for doing body panel seam sealer? Have you done it yet? I can look at another car but it would help to see what someone who knows what they're doing did.
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mopar4don
Well-Known Member
Sorry, to disappoint you but I have never done a restoration before so I would not say I am someone who knows what they are doing!
And I have not done seam sealer yet.
mopar4don
Well-Known Member
So getting back to an update....
I welded in the 4 speed hump and bucket seat brackets
Then I moved on to the the roof skin.
If you remember I have been trying to get the back half of the car put together.
It was when I was fitting the quarters that I realized that I needed the roof skin on the car so that I can fit the window opening, (glass and trim) which includes the sail panel area of the quarter panels. So by moving or adjusting one panel, it may affect the adjacent panel, which could turn into a domino affect. So to be on the safe side I want every panel fitted before anything gets welded.
So I started stripping the old paint off
Half way through stripping I realized that I needed to repair the rear window channel. So I started planning and creating the patches to fix the rear channel. I marked out where the window clip holes were, as some of the holes would fall into the patches, and I would need to drill them back in.
So here you can see some of the heavy pitting that will need patched
so I cut it out
and patched in the new piece
here you can see 2 areas that I patched
I welded in the 4 speed hump and bucket seat brackets
Then I moved on to the the roof skin.
If you remember I have been trying to get the back half of the car put together.
It was when I was fitting the quarters that I realized that I needed the roof skin on the car so that I can fit the window opening, (glass and trim) which includes the sail panel area of the quarter panels. So by moving or adjusting one panel, it may affect the adjacent panel, which could turn into a domino affect. So to be on the safe side I want every panel fitted before anything gets welded.
So I started stripping the old paint off
Half way through stripping I realized that I needed to repair the rear window channel. So I started planning and creating the patches to fix the rear channel. I marked out where the window clip holes were, as some of the holes would fall into the patches, and I would need to drill them back in.
So here you can see some of the heavy pitting that will need patched
so I cut it out
and patched in the new piece
here you can see 2 areas that I patched
QOTHL
Well-Known Member
Just my opinion, since having several body panels chemically dipped, I don't think I'll ever strip paint again. These parts are absolutely rust free and any damage is easy to see. The next time the whole body is getting dipped and E coated.
Looks like you're doing a great job! I'll be fixing my own panels from now on.
Looks like you're doing a great job! I'll be fixing my own panels from now on.
mopar4don
Well-Known Member
Chemical dipping would probably be the best way to go, I just don't have that option. Blasting would also work well. But these big panels with no body lines to help lock in the shape can warp in an instant. That is why I stripped it myself.
QOTHL
Well-Known Member
Just FYI, there are a number of posts on this forum of members that dipped their entire car body and everything came out fine. It was a concourse restoration guy who told me about the process because trying to strip something with multiple layers, some of which you can't get to manually is next to impossible. The additional benefit is it is rust free when you get it back, good clean metal. If the panels are on the frame, they're not going to warp and E coating protects it forever. I wish the clown that did my last car had done that - wish I had known about it. My take on this is if I'm going to spend all kinds of time and money restoring a car, I don't ever want the issue of rust to come up again, ever. Just my opinion.
I admire your dedication.
mopar4don
Well-Known Member
Here is a couple of pics showing the corner that needed fixed
Once I had all of the metal patched I made a wooden form to support the roof when working on the back side
So I finished stripping the top side
And this is what I used to strip
Once I had all of the metal patched I made a wooden form to support the roof when working on the back side
So I finished stripping the top side
And this is what I used to strip
coronet68mx
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Just wow ...
mopar4don
Well-Known Member
Next I separated the skin from the roof structure. There are a lot of spotwelds in the drip rails and along the front
Then I flipped the skin over and started stripping.
Just to review the stripping process.
I did not want to blast because I was afraid of warping.
So I decided to strip it with one of those stripping discs. I was a bit concerned about heat build up which could lead to warping. But I kept it cool by putting my 2 foot shop fan on it and also would air blast it as needed. It turned out good. I used up 3 stripping discs.
Then I flipped the skin over and started stripping.
Just to review the stripping process.
I did not want to blast because I was afraid of warping.
So I decided to strip it with one of those stripping discs. I was a bit concerned about heat build up which could lead to warping. But I kept it cool by putting my 2 foot shop fan on it and also would air blast it as needed. It turned out good. I used up 3 stripping discs.
mopar4don
Well-Known Member
Next I got the roof skin in the booth and rust preped it then sprayed some epoxy
Flipped it over then repeated. Here you can see the Auto Tech rust prep I used
from there web site http://autotechmfg.com/?cat=6
Rust - Prep
Fast Acting Formula Kills Rust & Paint Ready in 20 to 30 Minutes!
A new twist to an old product! This fast acting formula kills rust on contact and converts it to a dry, paintable surface in 20-30 minutes, as opposed to the normal 8 - 12 hours required by other products. Also, this unique formula is actually two products-in-one: it kills/converts rust or, if sprayed on a bare rust-free panel, it etches the surface like a metal prep and creates the perfect surface for paint, primer or filler! Rust-Prep works by reacting with rust to form a chemically inert ceramic-like strontium phosphate film that becomes part of the surface. When primed or coated, adhesion to the surface is increased because the zinc strontium phosphate film is cellular and actually creates a locking effect at the paint interface thus going way beyond ordinary adhesion. And the zinc phosphate film results in superior anti-corrosion and welding conductivity.
directions on how to use: go about half way down the page. http://autotechmfg.com/?page_id=77
Then Ralph sprayed it
A couple of notes: I did use the rust prep on the bottom side, But I did'nt get any pics.
And the roof structure you see in the background worked really well for transporting. Just threw a couple of clamps on and put it in the truck.
Flipped it over then repeated. Here you can see the Auto Tech rust prep I used
from there web site http://autotechmfg.com/?cat=6
Rust - Prep
Fast Acting Formula Kills Rust & Paint Ready in 20 to 30 Minutes!
A new twist to an old product! This fast acting formula kills rust on contact and converts it to a dry, paintable surface in 20-30 minutes, as opposed to the normal 8 - 12 hours required by other products. Also, this unique formula is actually two products-in-one: it kills/converts rust or, if sprayed on a bare rust-free panel, it etches the surface like a metal prep and creates the perfect surface for paint, primer or filler! Rust-Prep works by reacting with rust to form a chemically inert ceramic-like strontium phosphate film that becomes part of the surface. When primed or coated, adhesion to the surface is increased because the zinc strontium phosphate film is cellular and actually creates a locking effect at the paint interface thus going way beyond ordinary adhesion. And the zinc phosphate film results in superior anti-corrosion and welding conductivity.
directions on how to use: go about half way down the page. http://autotechmfg.com/?page_id=77
Then Ralph sprayed it
A couple of notes: I did use the rust prep on the bottom side, But I did'nt get any pics.
And the roof structure you see in the background worked really well for transporting. Just threw a couple of clamps on and put it in the truck.
plymouthman72
Well-Known Member
Wow, that roof skin looks so clean it could be a model part. Amazing work!
mopar4don
Well-Known Member
Thank you sir!
mopar4don
Well-Known Member
Hi Joel, Thank you it means a lot!
r4sedan
Well-Known Member
Excellent work fine Sir.
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