Dropped center link from Mancini or 440 Source. Where is it made?

[wedgie]

Many moons ago, I had an aftermarket BB oil pan interference issue on my '65 Coronet. I took the original center link out, cleaned all of the paint and dirt off and added another piece to the bottom, welding both sides a couple of inches in from the curves. I don't recall if I heated and bent the new piece up in order to get more weld area. Anyhow, then I simply cut the unwelded part of the original out. Worked well.

 

[origcharger]

A question concerning the straight part of the center link.

If the straight across part of the center link were to be modified by lowering it even more, would that screw with the suspension geometry and strength of the unit even if the end mounts end up in the same place as stock?

The 200-1175 Dropped center link I received measures 25” from center to center of tie rod stud holes compared to the two OEM links I have that measure 24 1/2”. Not sure my aftermarket jam nut style tie rod sleeves can be adjusted short enough to accommodate

 

[fullmetaljacket]

The 200-1175 Dropped center link I received measures 25” from center to center of tie rod stud holes compared to the two OEM links I have that measure 24 1/2”. Not sure my aftermarket jam nut style tie rod sleeves can be adjusted short enough to accommodate

So you're saying that the new dropped link is a 1/2 inch too long and that your tie rod adjusting sleeves may bottom out on the adjustments? Just asking to make sure I /we understand.
I have aftermarket aluminum jam style sleeves installed years back. What are your aftermarket units?

 

[origcharger]

Yes, stud holes farther apart. Doing this project in conjunction with a Borgeson box and Bergman tie rods install. Just eyeballing things now as I’m just seeing where spindles are pointing but I’m concerned about things like new steering gear being centered and needing to run tap farther into tie rod sleeves to accommodate. I’m not desperate to use this link as I was just looking for a bit more clearance between backside of oil pan sump.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Yes, stud holes farther apart. Doing this project in conjunction with a Borgeson box and Bergman tie rods install. Just eyeballing things now as I’m just seeing where spindles are pointing but I’m concerned about things like new steering gear being centered and needing to run tap farther into tie rod sleeves to accommodate. I’m not desperate to use this link as I was just looking for a bit more clearance between backside of oil pan sump.

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This photo explains a lot for those of us who are considering this option. It looks to me that this new dropped link also protrudes outward as well as just downward to clear the rear sump walls of a pan. Am I correct?
This may be a plus for most people, but the difference in lengths may produce unwanted problems.

 

[origcharger]

This photo explains a lot for those of us who are considering this option. It looks to me that this new dropped link also protrudes outward as well as just downward to clear the rear sump walls of a pan. Am I correct?
This may be a plus for most people, but the difference in lengths may produce unwanted problems.

It’s offset is in the same direction as the offset in the OEM link.
At the least, tie rod on RH side of car will need to be shortened 1/2”. The irony to me is that the idler arm will also be shifted farther to the RH side which would likely pull link closer to the pan sump on a left hand turn.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

It’s offset is in the same direction as the offset in the OEM link.
At the least, tie rod on RH side of car will need to be shortened 1/2”. The irony to me is that the idler arm will also be shifted farther to the RH side which would likely pull link closer to the pan sump on a left hand turn.

Man, this is deflating. Sorry that you have had to confront this, but at least you have other options than to go playing around with suspension geometry.
I was asking these questions of quality in another thread here and it seemed to get some folks agitated, but this is why we ask for advice and intuition on these forums in order to avoid problems.
Thank you origcharger for your insight and heads up. Perhaps you may find a way around this bump in the road and continue to fill us in.
I think I'll be steering clear of this item for the time being.

 

[dodgeboy440]

Mystery solved. LOL. I got off the phone with Mancini earlier today and they said: Made Overseas.
It should have quality to ensure its performance in a critical area.

Especially IF made in Lower Slobvobia By
Lil Abner …..
That’s Over The Sea Ain’t Ett ?

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Origcharger.
Do you have a spare pair of tie rod end to insert into those drag links to mimic a real tie rod?
My friends who know or remember more of this stuff then I will ever learn said the following:
Inserting a straight bolt may fool the naked eye because the link hole is tapered on one end and a straight bolt may move enough on that end to fool the measurements.
Now, in defense of what your photos show, a 1/2 inch difference for either the pitman arm or idler arm can present a problem, because even though you can adjust the tie rod sleeves in or out, the pitman and idler are stationary with the K- member and move to a certain degree in unison.

Just trying to break the case, and in case I am wrong, I will own up to that wrong.