Electrical help please

[Loulang]

So did you have it wired like in the diagram I gave? And did you modify like Don stated? Or?

Give me a call when your off work

 

[Loulang]

So did you have it wired like in the diagram I gave? And did you modify like Don stated? Or?

I did this one

 

[Don Frelier]

This would have worked assuming your fields were isolated (they way they normally were set up).
I made a bad assumption that they were both isolated since you had a single old style regulator and you stated it wasn't charging.
And that was wrong.
I'm sorry for not clearly directing you to check each field terminal for continuity to ground.

If:
1. the alternator has one field terminal tied to ground (DC-Common) AND
2. The alternator tested good

Then with your original setup it's either the regulator or wire between the regulator and alternator.
You need to check with a voltmeter the output of the regulator to the field and then check the ungrounded field wire for 12Volts.
Finally check the battery terminal on the alternator it should be the same as the battery if it's way higher then that wire to the battery is bad or not making a connection.

You can also jump 12 volts to the ungrounded field terminal and it should have around 14Volts or possibly more.
This would prove the alternator itself is charging.

Again my apologies for your trouble.

 

[Loulang]

This would have worked assuming your fields were isolated (they way they normally were set up).
I made a bad assumption that they were both isolated since you had a single old style regulator and you stated it wasn't charging.
And that was wrong.
I'm sorry for not clearly directing you to check each field terminal for continuity to ground.

If:
1. the alternator has one field terminal tied to ground (DC-Common) AND
2. The alternator tested good

Then with your original setup it's either the regulator or wire between the regulator and alternator.
You need to check with a voltmeter the output of the regulator to the field and then check the ungrounded field wire for 12Volts.
Finally check the battery terminal on the alternator it should be the same as the battery if it's way higher then that wire to the battery is bad or not making a connection.

You can also jump 12 volts to the ungrounded field terminal and it should have around 14Volts or possibly more.
This would prove the alternator itself is charging.

Again my apologies for your trouble.

No need to apologize I am no good with reading and trying to figure stuff out if there’s any way you have some free time Could text me and we could set up a time to verbally talk over the phone that would be awesome because I’m starting to wonder if my blue wire the wrong one and that’s why my wires fried Because my green one was next to the stud and my blue wire was farthest away from the stud

 

[Loulang]

I blame myself for not having a more accurate detail of everything for my harnessed burning up luckily it was just three wires in the engine harness I had to replace and it did not get to my new bulkhead or New dash wires. I have so much time and money and hard work in this car the last couple years I just want to drive it with no worries

 

[Loulang]

My regulator is electronic my ballast has a wire in the back connecting the two so my Holley sniper efi has a hot in crank and run positions and I have a electronic ignition.

 

[RemCharger]

Difference between the 2 systems

 

[dadsbee]

How many threads on alternators and fried wires so far...

 

[RemCharger]

How many threads on alternators and fried wires so far...

G

6,842 give or take.

Not to pat myself on the back too hard...
But I think my last diagram should put an end to all of it. ( yeah right )

 

[Loulang]

6,842 give or take.

Not to pat myself on the back too hard...
But I think my last diagram should put an end to all of it. ( yeah right )

So do I need to put a solid state voltage regulator on my car? Or is the electronic regulator ok?

 

[RemCharger]

A solid state , is electronic.
However, they now make the old style 1 wire regulator, in a solid state ( electronic version).

So what style would you like to run. Original 1966 1 field wire version (#1 in the diagram)?

OR... mid 70s style chrysler electronic ( like you bought) 2 field wire version (#2 diagram).

 

[Loulang]

This one is electronic so can I still do it the way the first drawing is with just using the green wire? Just not sure sorry if I’m aggravating.

 

[Loulang]

I’d like to use what you see in the pic just need to know what to do

 

[RemCharger]

Never actually used one of those myself. Someone else might be able to verify..
But if it's truly a 1966 replacement, then yes, hook it up as diagram 1.

Here is a couple examples of using a square back in a 1 wire configuration.
Ground out the extra field.

And if you think your alt might be no good, check that the diodes aren't blown out like this one missing 2.
There should be 6.

 

[Loulang]

Never actually used one of those myself. Someone else might be able to verify..
But if it's truly a 1966 replacement, then yes, hook it up as diagram 1.

Here is a couple examples of using a square back in a 1 wire configuration.
Ground out the extra field.
View attachment 1465549

And if you think your alt might be no good, check that the diodes aren't blown out like this one missing 2.
There should be 6.View attachment 1465552

Diodes on mine look good, so just ground the one closer to the stud (in the pic) to the housing. It came on the cat so I’m not sure I did open it and it has a computer board. I do have a original black square one off my parts car that I could use to see if everything works

 

[RemCharger]

During the whole course of this thread (and I've pointed it out several times..)
MAKE SURE THE ISOLATION WASHER IS ON THE INTENDED 12V SUPPLY TERMINAL(GREEN WIRE).

it does not matter which field side you use.
Then yes, if the alt is still good, and the regulator is still good( that's a hint)
All should be well and Sir Robert is your mothers brother.

 

[Loulang]

During the whole course of this thread (and I've pointed it out several times..)
MAKE SURE THE ISOLATION WASHER IS ON THE INTENDED 12V SUPPLY TERMINAL(GREEN WIRE).

it does not matter which field side you use.
Then yes, if the alt is still good, and the regulator is still good( that's a hint)
All should be well and Sir Robert is your mothers brother.

Sorry again I’m just making sure I have my green wire hooked up furthest from stud which has the isolated washer under the head of the bolt. I just know that the one regulator is different from the other on the inside and don’t wanna make another mistake if I’m supposed to use one and not the other. Your help is very much appreciated RemCharger, more than ya know.

 

[RemCharger]

No problem, so you can open it up and look. Or do you know that one worked before? The original regulator.

 

[RemCharger]

Did you burn the wire out in post #6. In the regulator picture. Could you make 2 into 1.

 

[Loulang]

Did you burn the wire out in post #6. In the regulator picture. Could you make 2 into 1.

I did burn the wire with the new one I bought soon as I put it on so I’m not sure if I should use that style.