Family Tradition

[Propwash]

A guy would have to be a magician to remember to what goes where for every car....Any idea what that light is off of Basket case? I have one of those already and it's in really good shape if anyone needs one.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I WAS gonna get it from Summit, but lo and behold our local Oreillys had it.

 

[Basket case]

well the only B Bodies I've had over 30 years are a '73 road runner looong time ago, and a '68 Charger I had for almost twenty. and '69 road runners. so if it's not for a '69 runner, it's gotta be for a Charger. my memory can't be wrong twice in one day....:eusa_doh:

 

[moparstuart]

Just looked at mine and it is the first one.

mine was the first one also

 

[wingcarenvy]

well the only B Bodies I've had over 30 years are a '73 road runner looong time ago, and a '68 Charger I had for almost twenty. and '69 road runners. so if it's not for a '69 runner, it's gotta be for a Charger. my memory can't be wrong twice in one day....:eusa_doh:

It wouldn't be the first time Dave, haha.

Will, I have had done my headers three ways. Paint with VHT 2000 degree paint, HPC coating from Hooker, and A high temp coating from my local powder coater. The paint just doesn't last and it degrades the minute they get real hot. The HPC coat actually works well but it will rust over time. My local powder coater did a set for me in satin black and they look great even after many hard miles. The cost of coating them from my powder coater was $150 and IMHO it is way worth it. If you are going that route do them before you run them. The turn around was 3 days for mine. Thats just my 2 cents. Your car is a stunner and to have rusty headers would be a shame and frustrating for you.

 

[moparstuart]

It wouldn't be the first time Dave, haha.

Will, I have had done my headers three ways. Paint with VHT 2000 degree paint, HPC coating from Hooker, and A high temp coating from my local powder coater. The paint just doesn't last and it degrades the minute they get real hot. The HPC coat actually works well but it will rust over time. My local powder coater did a set for me in satin black and they look great even after many hard miles. The cost of coating them from my powder coater was $150 and IMHO it is way worth it. If you are going that route do them before you run them. The turn around was 3 days for mine. Thats just my 2 cents. Your car is a stunner and to have rusty headers would be a shame and frustrating for you.

my super comps where jet hot coated and they lasted for a bout 12 years before they started rusting down by the collectors , you couldn't really see the rust . Infact they are still on the car running fine in germany . I dont think the powder coating is not a bad idea but you will lose the heat insulating factor you would get with the ceramic .

 

[TBONE]

Looking Great!

 

[Propwash]

It wouldn't be the first time Dave, haha.

Will, I have had done my headers three ways. Paint with VHT 2000 degree paint, HPC coating from Hooker, and A high temp coating from my local powder coater. The paint just doesn't last and it degrades the minute they get real hot. The HPC coat actually works well but it will rust over time. My local powder coater did a set for me in satin black and they look great even after many hard miles. The cost of coating them from my powder coater was $150 and IMHO it is way worth it. If you are going that route do them before you run them. The turn around was 3 days for mine. Thats just my 2 cents. Your car is a stunner and to have rusty headers would be a shame and frustrating for you.

That a good idea as well! Now the question is where to find a powder coater around here and what are they gonna want to do it....

 

[RustyRatRod]

Oh and on the paint, so you know, it says FLAME PROOF in big letters on the front. If it doesn't say that, it's the wrong stuff.

 

[Propwash]

Oh and on the paint, so you know, it says FLAME PROOF in big letters on the front. If it doesn't say that, it's the wrong stuff.

Gotcha....Thanks!

 

[roadrunnerman]

Will, the lens is on it's way in the mail along with a surprise for you. But not the one (LIL SIS) we talked about.It was good talking to you also.

 

[wannadrag]

That a good idea as well! Now the question is where to find a powder coater around here and what are they gonna want to do it....

Check by the old toy factory in Hortonville,last time through there they were still at it.Its right across from that old drive in heading west out a town.

 

[Propwash]

Will, the lens is on it's way in the mail along with a surprise for you. But not the one (LIL SIS) we talked about.It was good talking to you also.

Thanks Rodger...appreciate it buddy

Check by the old toy factory in Hortonville,last time through there they were still at it.Its right across from that old drive in heading west out a town.

I know where you're talking about Jay...Old drive in called "Charlies". They still handing out free ice cream cones if you show up with an old ride on Wednesdays? Thanks for the tip, that's right down the road.

 

[wingcarenvy]

my super comps where jet hot coated and they lasted for a bout 12 years before they started rusting down by the collectors , you couldn't really see the rust . Infact they are still on the car running fine in germany . I dont think the powder coating is not a bad idea but you will lose the heat insulating factor you would get with the ceramic .

Mine started rusting down by the collector right at 5 years. The Hooker HPC coating is pretty good but its expensive! I live near the beach and when cars sit around here weird stuff rusts.

I didn't say to "powder coat" them, what I meant is that some powder coating companies do ceramic coatings that are incredible.

Oh and on the paint, so you know, it says FLAME PROOF in big letters on the front. If it doesn't say that, it's the wrong stuff.

Thats the stuff, burns off pretty much as soon as you put serious heat in them.

 

[LeoD]

One good looking bird!

 

[Propwash]

Alright guys...Getting bored out of my mind waiting on the engine..The porting, bowls and valve work is done on the Eddy heads, so i'll be picking those up this week. Not a whole lot of movement on the rest of the engine. Line bore is done, ARP Studs for the mains are in. Been tinkering with the sleds in the mean time and snow's starting to fly.

Need some honest opinions (leave no thoughts to the curb). Being the only noise in the garage is the sound of evacuating Field Mice choking on mouthfuls of poison and being sent to the promise land, I've has some time to dink around with other little odds and ends. The hood callout emblems. I do like the font and look of the factory engine badges, but the missing factory 383 has a 512 filling its place. Found a couple places that will make custom emblems to my specifications. So, I'm no Picasso but I tried to modify a pic of a 383 emblem to a 512 on a paint program.

Thoughts? To me I'm thinking it looks pretty good, but just a bit concerned that folks will think i'm driving some long lost concept Chevrolet S12 and not a 512. It might be the font style and goes with the territory or it may be i'm just being too hard of a critic on myself.



Any way to sharpen the 5 up (the two would need the same effect) or leave it like it is?

 

[MarPar]

Imho

the 5 does kinda looks like an S.

if you can straighten out the leftmost north/south line of the S a little bit, i think it would help...

or you could try a different font, but it wouldn't match to a 69, me thinks....hmmmm quite the conundrum :eusa_think:

 

[Propwash]

Thanks Mario.....So Straighten her up a bit more. You said it best, it is a conundrum. Modify too far out and it loses the factory font appearance. Not enough, looks like i'm driving a Plymouth S12.

Back to the drawing board...:reading:

 

[MarPar]

too modern??

 

[rrTor-Red]

I dont think its too modern MarPar. Actually, I think the word "Mopar 512" would look cool. The word "Mopar in red, the numbers chrome or something of the sort but trimmed in red, would stand out like a fart in church Will. Be like saying "POW!".