Golden Goddess heart surgery

[Cranky]

Our Texas weather is like FJB, unpredictable, and confusing as heck. Last two days have been too cold for me to want to work on it. But tomorrow will be warm, followed by crappy weather, followed by a nice weekend. I’ll get back on it tomorrow, and hopefully by the weekend it’s out, and I can get to the fun stuff

I know the feeling when it's cold.....and hot!

Yep, I have 5 of them pinching nerves, neck, mid back, and base, and they cause all kinds of problems. I have very weak hands, and it’s hard to do things above my head. Makes my hobby I enjoy so much very difficult.

I removed the nut on the frame rail, the clips on the pedal and clutch, and the u shaped cotter pin, and I tried prying with various tools, moving back and forth, all of it, I just couldn’t get enough strength pop it off. So I’m going to try taking off the stud on the bell housing.

I'm one of the 'lucky' ones....have several discs that extruded forward. Got bent over backwards as a teen and bad. Several times after getting an xray for whatever reason, the doc would always ask me what in the world did I do for them to go forward like that and would say if they were back the same amount, I probably wouldn't be walking. Now Mr. Artur Rightous is becoming a problem....

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

There, that’s finally out.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

In regards to headers l, I think I’ve got it figured out. On my build I don’t need 2” headers, 1 7/8” will do fine. The direct connection book says Dougs, but they’re only sold in 2” for RB so that’s out. Stahl, are they even around anymore, those are out. Cragar would be cool but good luck. So that just leaves Hooker.

My plan is to buy the temp painted headers, make any modifications, then get them ceramic coated black. It’ll look correct (well not really because they won’t be rusted out,) but still have the benefits ceramic coating does

 

[ckessel]

I used to own one of those manuals. Got rid of it when the newer versions came out. BIG MISTAKE. The newer ones had less useful information in them with every revision. Still have my original circle track one though. Excellent one there.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

Thanks, My great uncle bought it in 75, he gave it to me last year. One of the many things that made Chrysler so great! Hey here’s a book of speed secrets, also there’s part numbers because you can buy the parts over the counter!

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

The big question I have is with the came. It came with this package of goop, is this enough goop, or do I need more goop? If I need more goop what’s the best goop?

After reading a few horror stories of cam failures, I want to do everything I can to make sure that doesn’t happen. I’m only changing the cam because I’m a hot rodder, if it works good, it can work better! I’d hate for that to bite me in the butt

 

[66Satellite47]

Pretty sure that will be good for at least a couple of cams. Assembly lube is available everywhere, many brands.

 

[HawkRod]

The big question I have is with the came. It came with this package of goop, is this enough goop, or do I need more goop? If I need more goop what’s the best goop?

After reading a few horror stories of cam failures, I want to do everything I can to make sure that doesn’t happen. I’m only changing the cam because I’m a hot rodder, if it works good, it can work better! I’d hate for that to bite me in the butt

View attachment 1416806

Great thread by the way!

Yes, that packet will be enough for the cam. You need extreme pressure assembly lube/grease on the cam lobes and downstream parts. So that means especially the cam lobes where they touch the bottom of the lifters. But it is also a good idea to grease the top of the lifters where they touch the push rods, the top of the pushrods where they touch the rockers, and the tips of the rockers where they touch the top of the valves.

Note that I did NOT say the cam journals/ cam bearings interface. This is not a high pressure area. Yes, some regular assembly lube here is fine, but you don't need the extreme pressure stuff there. Buy a good break-in oil for the engine.

When starting the engine, make SURE you have your act together regarding timing and carb setup so it will run decently enough for the break in. Starting an engine with a new cam a bunch of times because timing and/or carb needs adjustments is NOT good!

Once you get it started with the new cam, DO NOT LET THE ENGINE IDLE!!!! Let me say this again DO NOT LET THE ENGINE IDLE!!! Run it between 2000 - 3000 RPM for 20 to 30 minutes. If you let the engine idle before 20-30 minutes the cam lobes don't get enough oil and you can wipe the cam.

Good Luck!

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

Great thread by the way!

Yes, that packet will be enough for the cam. You need extreme pressure assembly lube/grease on the cam lobes and downstream parts. So that means especially the cam lobes where they touch the bottom of the lifters. But it is also a good idea to grease the top of the lifters where they touch the push rods, the top of the pushrods where they touch the rockers, and the tips of the rockers where they touch the top of the valves.

Note that I did NOT say the cam journals/ cam bearings interface. This is not a high pressure area. Yes, some regular assembly lube here is fine, but you don't need the extreme pressure stuff there. Buy a good break-in oil for the engine.

When starting the engine, make SURE you have your act together regarding timing and carb setup so it will run decently enough for the break in. Starting an engine with a new cam a bunch of times because timing and/or carb needs adjustments is NOT good!

Once you get it started with the new cam, DO NOT LET THE ENGINE IDLE!!!! Let me say this again DO NOT LET THE ENGINE IDLE!!! Run it between 2000 - 3000 RPM for 20 to 30 minutes. If you let the engine idle before 20-30 minutes the cam lobes don't get enough oil and you can wipe the cam.

Good Luck!

Thanks! Your power tour thread is great, hopefully it all goes well for you.

I know about the break in procedure, my neighbors are going to love it! I just wasn’t sure how much goop is needed

 

[66Satellite47]

It doesn't need much. Just a nice coating on the lopes & lifters, and a dab on the pushrods.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

I have never put a new cam in a car. I’ve replaced cam bearings, but I put the old cam back in. All of my engine “builds” have just been valve seals, timing chain, new gaskets, a coat of paint, and hope for the best!

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

Well it’s out. I also might have found one of my oil leaks

 

[MarPar]

Am I seeing that right? Is that your pan rail??

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

Yes you are, I am just as stunned as you

 

[MarPar]

Holy crap!! Ya, I'd say you found the leak spot. LOL

 

[64fury74charger]

You never know what you are running on until you take it apart and then you’ll be reliving some flashbacks of times you were beating on this machine and how everything held together. Glad you got a chance to have a good look.

Please keep us posted and lots of pictures with your updates. I am vicariously following along. Thank you for your time and effort to post as your journey begins.

 

[khryslerkid]

Yes you are, I am just as stunned as you

Might have broke a mount once and bent the edge.

I'm riding along on this thread!

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

I know the engine was in a low miles 69 Chrysler Newport, the owner passed away, so the family wanted it hauled off. On its journey to the junkyard, Mr tow truck driver didn’t strap it down good and it fell off. The driver side had 2 broken engine mount ears, we welded them back on, and somehow it’s still together!

 

[66Satellite47]

You might give some thought to a motor plate.