Sounds like you have it figured out. I was surprised by the condition of the oil pump, but then again I can't remember if we changed it after the original cam failure in the 400. I know we cleaned everything thoroughly.
HawkRod is doing the 2023 Hot Rod Power Tour!
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Now that, my friend, is going too far! I have a plan, but whether it's a good one of not only time will tell. But I'm trying!
Me too. Whatever it was either happened for a previous engine build or it was caught by the oil filter and never made its way to the bearings, because all the bearings looked fine. Overall, the engine was in good shape.
Purepony
Well-Known Member
That cars probably going to get more looks on the power tour or anywhere than those freshly restored cars. Patina cars are just awesome to look at compared to a restored car
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I don't know if I agree with this sentiment, but I am certainly excited to see @HawkRod's car myself.
I hope you get the chance too! I am away Friday and Saturday, so my engine swap will start in earnest on Sunday. I'll do the usual and drop it out the bottom of the car. I've done it a few times, so I'm getting "practiced", but it is still a lot of work! I hope I will be fine unless I have any unexpected issues.
Fingers crossed!!!
I was briefly looking at my new oil pump today.
Here is a picture of a high volume oil pump (left, unpainted) next to a standard volume pump (right, painted). The primary way to get higher volume is to make more volume in the pump housing, so it is easy to see a high volume pump. The high volume case on the left is 1.75" deep, while the standard volume case is 1.5".
By the way, to increase the pressure, the big bolt on each pump at the top of the picture has a spring beneath it. Increase the tension of that spring (either by putting a shim in it or putting a stronger spring in it) and the pressure will increase, at least at high RPM. The spring regulates pressure by allowing some oil to circulate back, so the stronger the spring, the less it will allow to circulate back, thus raising the pressure. The caveat to this is if your mains are loose enough that the spring isn't coming into play at all, then strengthening the spring does nothing.
Here is a picture of a high volume oil pump (left, unpainted) next to a standard volume pump (right, painted). The primary way to get higher volume is to make more volume in the pump housing, so it is easy to see a high volume pump. The high volume case on the left is 1.75" deep, while the standard volume case is 1.5".
By the way, to increase the pressure, the big bolt on each pump at the top of the picture has a spring beneath it. Increase the tension of that spring (either by putting a shim in it or putting a stronger spring in it) and the pressure will increase, at least at high RPM. The spring regulates pressure by allowing some oil to circulate back, so the stronger the spring, the less it will allow to circulate back, thus raising the pressure. The caveat to this is if your mains are loose enough that the spring isn't coming into play at all, then strengthening the spring does nothing.
I got back from a trip last night, so today I did some garage cleanup and then started on engine removal. I prefer to drop the engine out the bottom of the car. With a lift, this is a very controlled and easy process.
I break tasks into ones in the engine compartment (all wires, heater hoses, throttle body stuff, etc.), in the interior (loosen steering column and remove shifter), on the side of the car (like disconnecting brakes and upper control arms), and then finally, tasks for under the car.
Here is an in progress shot for tasks I was doing under the hood.
In the picture below I am complete all the under hood tasks. The throttle body has wiring that is a pain to remove, so it is easier and faster to set it aside. The brake booster makes a good stand for it!
Also, you can't quite see it in this picture, but the air conditioning compressor is tied against the passenger inner fender. Obviously, I don't want to disconnect and have to recharge that.
I have now stopped for a bite to eat for lunch. The only tasks left and under car tasks, so I will go back to those after lunch. Could the engine be out by the end of the day? Maybe....
@qkcuda
I imagine you used this piece pictured below as a torque strap for your car. Do you happen to have any pictures of it installed?
OK. Now back to work!!!
I break tasks into ones in the engine compartment (all wires, heater hoses, throttle body stuff, etc.), in the interior (loosen steering column and remove shifter), on the side of the car (like disconnecting brakes and upper control arms), and then finally, tasks for under the car.
Here is an in progress shot for tasks I was doing under the hood.
In the picture below I am complete all the under hood tasks. The throttle body has wiring that is a pain to remove, so it is easier and faster to set it aside. The brake booster makes a good stand for it!
Also, you can't quite see it in this picture, but the air conditioning compressor is tied against the passenger inner fender. Obviously, I don't want to disconnect and have to recharge that.
I have now stopped for a bite to eat for lunch. The only tasks left and under car tasks, so I will go back to those after lunch. Could the engine be out by the end of the day? Maybe....
@qkcuda
I imagine you used this piece pictured below as a torque strap for your car. Do you happen to have any pictures of it installed?
OK. Now back to work!!!
Hawk, I found one picture on my phone. The bolt went through the upper motor mount boss, and I drilled a hole in the middle of the lip of the K frame. The rubber bushings went on either side of the K frame hole to provide some cushioning. Remember this was on an A body cuda, so the K frame would be different.
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Awesome - thank you!!!
The picture is great as it helps me to narrow down the possible installment methods, and thanks for the caution about the possible differences in the K member. I'll see what I can mock up. I'm not 100% sure I need it as I have locking type motor mounts, but it would be nice to have the extra insurance.
I got the engine complete out, and I am now working on mocking up the new engine and getting it ready for painting.
Here is the old 383 on its way out.
Here are a few shots with the driveline out of the car. I keep telling myself I'm going to make a nice setup to hold the K member and transmission assembly, but I never seem to get it done and keep using my old method. But, it works well so I guess maybe I shouldn't worry about making anything.
So I am happy I had success getting the engine out so easily today, especially since I was working alone.
Next steps are to break down the transmission from the old 383 engine and also paint the stroker 400. Making progress!!!
Hawk, looking at your K frame, that support bracket for the sway bar looks like a great spot for the torque strap, if it will reach.
Thanks - yes, I agree. The other nice thing is I can modify the sway bar bracket and leave the K-member alone. This way it is easier to put back to stock if I ever want to.
Here are a couple of pictures; one with the rubber isolators on and one without. I think it can be made to fit quite nicely!
70bigblockdodge
Well-Known Member
I just use the most rearward hole on the he sway bar bracket. A welded eyebolt jam nutted through that backet with a piece of 5/16" chain up to the mounting bolt on the block. Adjust the jam nuts to set tension, or lack of on the chain.
I spent today working on the new 500 stroker engine getting it cleaned up, as well as moving needed parts from the old 383 to the 500. My stock valve covers took me the longest as they first had to be cleaned, but then also modified so the baffles are not hit by my valvetrain (the roller rockers need additional clearance).
And then clean, again and again.
Finally, I had everything masked off and ready to go.
By the way, I cut refrigerator magnets into circles to cover needed holes. I used three for the valve covers and one for the distributor hole. Much easier than masking and a cinch to put on and take off!
I then spray bombed the entire engine with Hemi Orange VHT Hi Temp engine enamel.
This is far from a perfect paint job. Some of the chips in the old paint show, and my old valve covers (that I salvaged and were very rusty) show a fair amount of "texture" where they were pitted. But it is a serviceable paint job and will hopefully look decent enough when you pop the hood. Plus, maybe that will further make it look like just a stock engine!
Tonight I hope to get the old 383 off the K-member, and then it will be time to start reversing the process. However, I won't be able to continue until Thursday since I need to go up and work at my father-in-law's place Tuesday and Wednesday. Maybe that is good so the paint can really cure and dry?
And then clean, again and again.
Finally, I had everything masked off and ready to go.
By the way, I cut refrigerator magnets into circles to cover needed holes. I used three for the valve covers and one for the distributor hole. Much easier than masking and a cinch to put on and take off!
I then spray bombed the entire engine with Hemi Orange VHT Hi Temp engine enamel.
This is far from a perfect paint job. Some of the chips in the old paint show, and my old valve covers (that I salvaged and were very rusty) show a fair amount of "texture" where they were pitted. But it is a serviceable paint job and will hopefully look decent enough when you pop the hood. Plus, maybe that will further make it look like just a stock engine!
Tonight I hope to get the old 383 off the K-member, and then it will be time to start reversing the process. However, I won't be able to continue until Thursday since I need to go up and work at my father-in-law's place Tuesday and Wednesday. Maybe that is good so the paint can really cure and dry?
70bigblockdodge
Well-Known Member
I finally put my new drive shaft in, big improvement over my homemade, worn out, old one. Gave a basic fluid, and nut and bolt check while it was up in the air.
Way less than what you have to do, but I'm sure you will knock it out.
Looking good.
Way less than what you have to do, but I'm sure you will knock it out.
Looking good.
It's great that we are all making progress - I hope your car works well with the changes!
Tonight I got the 383 tucked into it's sleeping hole for awhile. I still have to pull it back out to prepare it for long term slumber, but for now it is sitting under a shelf out of the way.
This left my K-member sitting all by its lonesome. I'll do a little cleanup on that and then start reversing the process and get this 'ol barge back together. But that won't happen until Thursday...
70bigblockdodge
Well-Known Member
I was good before just had that "when it spits out the driveshaft" compared to now "driveshaft is again at the bottom of the list of concerns". There are new concerns that I will ignore and say "glad that made it when I get back".
Haha. Yeah, my car won't even be broken in when I head south with it (assuming I even get that far)!
It adds to the excitement!
Break in, what's that? Strap them to the dyno, and once you do a cursory check of everything, make about a dozen full throttle pulls.
Break in, what's that? Strap them to the dyno, and once you do a cursory check of everything, make about a dozen full throttle pulls.
I have to make sure my air conditioning works...
The A/C works in my Charger, just missing about 300 HP 
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