How to launch a 4 speed with 323 gears

[biomedtechguy]

I take it that there is more to the clutch tamer then just the adjustable knob situation that bolt under the dash correct?

There's a picture of the device in the article. Hydraulic cylinder does the work.

 

[biomedtechguy]

this count? Granted I wasn’t power shifting and came off the line a bit soft. Things I was working on until the trans gave up.

Nice run. I noticed 2 things.
Left hand at 12 o'clock. I've seen a few videos on how to minimize bias ply tire sway, and they suggest the 9 o'clock position, and using the arm rest on the door to lock in the left arm some.
I have to readjust my rear view mirror too from the force of acceleration.

 

[Cranky]

Let me define what is my bog. Car not moving, engine at 3000 RPM, Letting the clutch out slowly as I apply more gas. As the clutch starts to engage car begins to move, as the clutch fully engages the engine rpm's decrease as engine labors to catch up.


That will take practice. I have the natural urge to fully press the throttle.



My 72 has shorter tires on it. Cooper Cobra 275/60-15, 28" tire. Would the 1" shorter tire help me that much?

You have lots going against you with tall tires, not much gear and a small block that doesn't produce low end torque. I would for sure throw on the 28" tires like Fury440 said. It would be a move in the right direction at least. Can't believe I'm going to say this but an automatic sure would help with your combination for the drag strip. Dang I feel like a traitor now lol. I think BSB67 has a good way to try too....

 

[Paul_G]

You have lots going against you with tall tires, not much gear and a small block that doesn't produce low end torque. I would for sure throw on the 28" tires like Fury440 said. It would be a move in the right direction at least. Can't believe I'm going to say this but an automatic sure would help with your combination for the drag strip. Dang I feel like a traitor now lol. I think BSB67 has a good way to try too....

I am taking the 73 with a big block. '68 383 in right now. I am going to call around some tire stores and see what they have in a 235/60-15 tire for the rear. I have a set of old Gambler wheels I can put some tires on for just this purpose.

This is the car when I found it. It was sitting in a mans yard for 10 years. It really is a hooptie, just an expensive hooptie after brakes, suspension, and steering rebuilds. Later today I will get a pic of it now. I have had it to 130 MPH on the open road believe it or not.

 

[biomedtechguy]

It really is a hooptie, just an expensive hooptie after brakes, suspension, and steering rebuilds.

Much more than that! Charger w/3 pedals!
That 400 would have made a great block for a stroker motor!
I don't know what they go for today, but I got a B body 8 3/4 chunk from a junkyard that was able to go straight into a housing and run. So a 4.10 setup for the track is still something I would at least check out.
Instead of spending money on tires, update or upgrade the clutch disc and possibly pressure plate.

 

[Cranky]

I am taking the 73 with a big block. '68 383 in right now. I am going to call around some tire stores and see what they have in a 235/60-15 tire for the rear. I have a set of old Gambler wheels I can put some tires on for just this purpose.

This is the car when I found it. It was sitting in a mans yard for 10 years. It really is a hooptie, just an expensive hooptie after brakes, suspension, and steering rebuilds. Later today I will get a pic of it now. I have had it to 130 MPH on the open road believe it or not.
View attachment 880307

It has hood pins so 130 is doable! lol. Seriously....had a 70 383 Challenger with 2.94's in it and it would top end really good. Found out why so many installed hood pins on those cars after making a 150 mile run one day taking about 2 hours time. Also, that gen Charger has decent aero.....

 

[Paul_G]

The trans leaks. It needs to be gone through yet. I am not ready to rebuild the trans and replace the clutch before the zip tie drags. I am building a 505 for the 72 right now. Just dropped a ton of change on that. TF PP 240 heads and a roller cam set just came this week. A ton of change...

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

Nice run. I noticed 2 things.
Left hand at 12 o'clock. I've seen a few videos on how to minimize bias ply tire sway, and they suggest the 9 o'clock position, and using the arm rest on the door to lock in the left arm some.
I have to readjust my rear view mirror too from the force of acceleration.

you come off the line and she goes right you’re not gonna want that hand at the 9 o’clock position. And it’s happened. I about ran my Belvedere into the wall at milan from the right lane. Had I not had my hand at 12 o clock I would have. Probably a different story in a chassis car that requires minimal steering input to correct. I suppose a small steering wheel would also help. Arm rests are also a thing of the past with the roll bar. But that’s just me and how I’m comfortable. I also tend to let the car walk around a bit, I don’t try and over correct it unless it needs it.

 

[biomedtechguy]

you come off the line and she goes right you’re not gonna want that hand at the 9 o’clock position. And it’s happened. I about ran my Belvedere into the wall at milan from the right lane. Had I not had my hand at 12 o clock I would have. Probably a different story in a chassis car that requires minimal steering input to correct. I suppose a small steering wheel would also help. Arm rests are also a thing of the past with the roll bar. But that’s just me and how I’m comfortable. I also tend to let the car walk around a bit, I don’t try and over correct it unless it needs it.

Thanks for the feedback. I was basically repeating a general consensus I have seen online. Of course all cars and drivers can be unique.

 

[biomedtechguy]

The trans leaks. It needs to be gone through yet. I am not ready to rebuild the trans and replace the clutch before the zip tie drags. I am building a 505 for the 72 right now. Just dropped a ton of change on that. TF PP 240 heads and a roller cam set just came this week. A ton of change...

With the 505 stroker, you should really look at a serious clutch disc and pressure plate and the Clutch Tamer or if Hydraulic clutch, the HitMaster, and consider that in the clutch package you buy.
My street/strip disc and 2,900 pound pressure plate are great for what I've been doing, but I don't know if they will be up to the task w/the HitMaster.

 

[old guys rule]

There's a picture of the device in the article. Hydraulic cylinder does the work.

Does the unit with the hydraulic cylinder only work with a hydraulic clutch?

 

[Ceedawg]

There's a picture of the device in the article. Hydraulic cylinder does the work.

What I plan to use on mine, just to save parts.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Does the unit with the hydraulic cylinder only work with a hydraulic clutch?

Grrrr!! lol...
Have you looked at the linked pages?!
ClutchTamer: no hydraulic throwout bearing required!

Description:
What is the ClutchTamer ?...
...A small hydraulic cylinder that takes much of the inconsistent human element out of precisely controlling your car's clutch pedal. It's adjustable for exactly where in the clutch pedal's travel that it becomes active, and adjustable for rate of release from that point on. The cylinder has characteristics similar to those of a 90/10 shock, pulling it's rod out is easy, only the return stroke of the cylinder is controlled. Because the ClutchTamer attaches to the clutch pedal itself, it works equally well on both hydraulic and mechanical clutch release systems/linkage.
With our ClutchTamer installed, only the final part of clutch pedal's release is slowed down, not the whole release cycle, while the rest of the clutch pedal's travel works like normal. If you are using the clutch pedal during shifts, the slipper will soften drivetrain shock during the gear changes as well. Casual driving is NOT affected, no need to dis-connect the ClutchTamer for daily driving.
The Clutch Tamer slip controller allows you to choose a clutch with more capacity than you would normally choose. Typically that clutch would be too aggressive, but the addition of the first stage of the slip control provides the ability to apply only partial pressure initially, allowing slip. The second stage allows additional pressure to come in over time to insure lockup farther down the track.
HitMaster: Hydraulic throwout bearing REQUIRED!

 

[old guys rule]

Grrrr!! lol...
Have you looked at the linked pages?!
ClutchTamer: no hydraulic throwout bearing required!
View attachment 880360
Description:
What is the ClutchTamer ?...
...A small hydraulic cylinder that takes much of the inconsistent human element out of precisely controlling your car's clutch pedal. It's adjustable for exactly where in the clutch pedal's travel that it becomes active, and adjustable for rate of release from that point on. The cylinder has characteristics similar to those of a 90/10 shock, pulling it's rod out is easy, only the return stroke of the cylinder is controlled. Because the ClutchTamer attaches to the clutch pedal itself, it works equally well on both hydraulic and mechanical clutch release systems/linkage.
With our ClutchTamer installed, only the final part of clutch pedal's release is slowed down, not the whole release cycle, while the rest of the clutch pedal's travel works like normal. If you are using the clutch pedal during shifts, the slipper will soften drivetrain shock during the gear changes as well. Casual driving is NOT affected, no need to dis-connect the ClutchTamer for daily driving.
The Clutch Tamer slip controller allows you to choose a clutch with more capacity than you would normally choose. Typically that clutch would be too aggressive, but the addition of the first stage of the slip control provides the ability to apply only partial pressure initially, allowing slip. The second stage allows additional pressure to come in over time to insure lockup farther down the track.
HitMaster: Hydraulic throwout bearing REQUIRED!
View attachment 880364

Sorry haven't had time to read the site but thanks for the help

 

[Paul_G]

With the 505 stroker, you should really look at a serious clutch disc and pressure plate and the Clutch Tamer or if Hydraulic clutch, the HitMaster, and consider that in the clutch package you buy.
My street/strip disc and 2,900 pound pressure plate are great for what I've been doing, but I don't know if they will be up to the task w/the HitMaster.

It gets confusing. I have 2 cars right now. The '73 I am working on in this thread is a big block 4 speed car. My other car is '72 a small block automatic car, that one is getting the 505.

The Hitmaster looks like it is something to consider in the future. Thanks for bringing it out.

The '73 as it is now. I dont plan to paint the car any time soon. I am having a lot of fun driving it and not worrying about it in parking lots. Still needs interior done, which I am going to do next year, and the trans refreshed to stop the leaking.

 

[Paul_G]

Played with the dizzy today. It needs to be replaced, or rebuilt but I cant find bushings or a rebuild kit for it. Tightened up the mechanical advance spread. Held total mechanical advance to 32°, base timing now at 20°. It likes it.

I put those old Gambler wheels and tires back on the car. They will break loose easily just letting the clutch out quickly at 2500 RPM, then add gas to a full smoke show. No good. But, I am really impressed by how sticky those new Hankook tires are.

 

[69sunfireGTX]

Rear tires are 265/45-20 Hankook Ventus S1 EVO 2, 8.7 tread width on an 8.5" wheel. I have them at 35PSI on the street.

Get rid of the low sidewall 20" tires. You will never get any traction with them. Plus reduce the outside diameter of the tires at least a couple of inches. Drag radials will help.

 

[kiwigtx]

this count? Granted I wasn’t power shifting and came off the line a bit soft. Things I was working on until the trans gave up.

Excellent ...thank you for sharing. I would be stoked with a run like that.

 

[kiwigtx]

I have to readjust my rear view mirror too from the force of acceleration.

That problem can be solved by tightening the spring plate behind the ball socket on the mirror base.

 

[biomedtechguy]

That problem can be solved by tightening the spring plate behind the ball socket on the mirror base.

Since you mentioned that, I have a Philips screwdriver in the car...I actually tightened the screw a little while driving last road trip, but it felt a little loose and I don't want to strip it.
So do I remove the piece that that one screw goes in and in doing so, that will reveal the complex Rube Goldberg machine that holds the mirror in adjustment? Lol.
Seriously, I don't know what mystery lies behind that part.