How to launch a 4 speed with 323 gears

[68 HEMI GTS]

Excellent ...thank you for sharing. I would be stoked with a run like that.

the car was an absolute riot with the 4 speed. I just couldn’t make more than about 3 passes without major breakage. I should have put a Jerico in it off the bat. I plan to leave the TF in it now cause the new engine will have another 100hp. The roadrunner is a stick car, I may go back to shifting that one. Don’t think I’m gonna mess around with these old transmissions anymore in something that runs 10’s and is heavy. I’ll just go G-force or Jerico in that one. I already have the slipper clutch..

 

[kiwigtx]

Since you mentioned that, I have a Philips screwdriver in the car...I actually tightened the screw a little while driving last road trip, but it felt a little loose and I don't want to strip it.
So do I remove the piece that that one screw goes in and in doing so, that will reveal the complex Rube Goldberg machine that holds the mirror in adjustment? Lol.
Seriously, I don't know what mystery lies behind that part.

Next time you get a chance to remove the mirror...a solution will be obvious - maybe some additional thread tape for a bit more friction will help.

 

[Ceedawg]

Played with the dizzy today. It needs to be replaced, or rebuilt but I cant find bushings or a rebuild kit for it. Tightened up the mechanical advance spread. Held total mechanical advance to 32°, base timing now at 20°. It likes it.

I put those old tires on the Gambler wheels back on the car. They will break loose easily just letting the clutch out quickly at 2500 RPM, then add gas to a full smoke show. No good. But, I am really impressed by how sticky those new Hankook tires are.

Get another stock electronic dist and put in one tiny spring for advance. Use this at the track only because it’ll come out to full advance at 1000 or less and engine will respond well. It’s All I’ve ever used in race cars, never seen a need for the high dollar dist. The only reason for small spring is for starting, once fired... full advance @ 34-38*

 

[biomedtechguy]

I’ll just go G-force or Jerico in that one.

I just spent the last 20 minutes reading about mostly the G-force because info on the Jerico that I found is just gear ratios and pictures.
They both look impressive. I'm pretty sure that the transmission tunnel has to be modified significantly for any of those to fit?
I've already invested over $5k for the Passon Performance a855 5 speed in my Roadrunner, and it's wonderful, and I just bought a tricked out TKO600 for the 421 Tripower in the 65 GTO. The TKO is still in the box, but there's NO WAY that my wife would go along with cutting up her car for a transmission, and the engine has had a performance rebuild done, so other than maybe going to aluminum cylinder heads and maybe headers one day, the 421 is at the level it always will be, appx 425-450 HP and 500 torque (guessing only until we get the 3x2 Rochesters done, and chassis dyno session)
ANYWAY, what can you tell me about either brand, and which of either is better for a street/strip car?

 

[Ceedawg]

I inquired about the Jericho, strip only no syncos. IMO anything that slips will save parts.

 

[old guys rule]

Sorry haven't had time to read the site but thanks for the help

What does a setup like that cost?

 

[old guys rule]

Upgrade the clutch disc, at least. May need a new/better pressure plate.
Look at getting this:
http://clutchtamer.com/

Is $169 the price for the whole setup? Really? I expected more.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

I just spent the last 20 minutes reading about mostly the G-force because info on the Jerico that I found is just gear ratios and pictures.
They both look impressive. I'm pretty sure that the transmission tunnel has to be modified significantly for any of those to fit?
I've already invested over $5k for the Passon Performance a855 5 speed in my Roadrunner, and it's wonderful, and I just bought a tricked out TKO600 for the 421 Tripower in the 65 GTO. The TKO is still in the box, but there's NO WAY that my wife would go along with cutting up her car for a transmission, and the engine has had a performance rebuild done, so other than maybe going to aluminum cylinder heads and maybe headers one day, the 421 is at the level it always will be, appx 425-450 HP and 500 torque (guessing only until we get the 3x2 Rochesters done, and chassis dyno session)
ANYWAY, what can you tell me about either brand, and which of either is better for a street/strip car?

I don’t know a whole lot about the G Force. I know they both require modifications. Not a big deal on my car as it’s already had a TKO in it. I think the Jerico is an easier swap cause they make a chrysler input version. You have to order it with road race sliders for street driving. It’ll be slightly crude on the street but will be a whole lot of fun when it’s time to get down. And it will handle the power.

 

[Hemirunner]

I don’t know a whole lot about the G Force. I know they both require modifications. Not a big deal on my car as it’s already had a TKO in it. I think the Jerico is an easier swap cause they make a chrysler input version. You have to order it with road race sliders for street driving. It’ll be slightly crude on the street but will be a whole lot of fun when it’s time to get down. And it will handle the power.

It’s an aluminum version of Ford’s old toploader. It’ll handle the HP but it won’t like the torque, especially in a heavy car. Do your due diligence before going down that road or it’ll be expensive and frustrating.

To the OP: sounds like the clutch is already weak, if not toast. A 4.10 gear swap and a new clutch would be a good idea. If not, take it on a trailer so you’re not walking home.

 

[Paul_G]

To the OP: sounds like the clutch is already weak, if not toast. A 4.10 gear swap and a new clutch would be a good idea. If not, take it on a trailer so you’re not walking home.

Yep. it's going on a trailer. I want to get home. I have broke before when far from home. Bummed a ride to a U Haul store and rented a truck and trailer to get my junk home.

 

[Ceedawg]

I don’t know a whole lot about the G Force. I know they both require modifications. Not a big deal on my car as it’s already had a TKO in it. I think the Jerico is an easier swap cause they make a chrysler input version. You have to order it with road race sliders for street driving. It’ll be slightly crude on the street but will be a whole lot of fun when it’s time to get down. And it will handle the power.

Good to know about the road race unit, guys I talked to are Stock and Super Stock racers, never thought about the go-round racers.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

It’s an aluminum version of Ford’s old toploader. It’ll handle the HP but it won’t like the torque, especially in a heavy car. Do your due diligence before going down that road or it’ll be expensive and frustrating.

I actually did on the Jerico’s, including calling them direct 2 different times. Everything I’ve learned about then is the should be absolutely fine in something like my RR. I’ve also talked with several guys running them. They’ve all said they are extremely more durable than a HEMI box.

sorry, didn’t mean to derail the OP’s post.

 

[dvw]

We've run our 360 Challenger with normal BFG radial T/A's. 3.55 gear, 2.44 1st gear 833. 3 of us have tried it. My wife, my son and me. My wife is really good at keeping it consistent in the low 14's. My son is all over the map, 15.50- 13.50. I can keep it in the 13's, best ever 13.20. all runs between 105-107. The best times are leaving at 2500, let the clutch out quicker that on the street, but by no means dump it. As the clutch is coming out, add throttle slow and smooth. Too much and it'll smoke the tires, to little it just goes slower. Same car with sticky tires 12.70@109, slicks and 4.30 12.50@110.
Doug

 

[BSB67]

We've run our 360 Challenger with normal BFG radial T/A's. 3.55 gear, 2.44 1st gear 833. 3 of us have tried it. My wife, my son and me. My wife is really good at keeping it consistent in the low 14's. My son is all over the map, 15.50- 13.50. I can keep it in the 13's, best ever 13.20. all runs between 105-107. The best times are leaving at 2500, let the clutch out quicker that on the street, but by no means dump it. As the clutch is coming out, add throttle slow and smooth. Too much and it'll smoke the tires, to little it just goes slower. Same car with sticky tires 12.70@109, slicks and 4.30 12.50@110.
Doug

What kind of 60 ft were you getting Doug?

 

[dvw]

It's been a while, not great. As I remember in the mid 1.8, low 1.9
Doug

 

[biomedtechguy]

Those clutch letter outer things

I get it, and by no means intend any disrespect. Quite the contrary, it seems like you have a good handle on clutch operation, finding the sweet spot for clutch and throttle, as well as tire selection.
I am such a big proponent for a ClutchTamer or HitMaster launch control system because I don't get to go to the track as often as I want to, or need to, because I have so many "systems" of my car that are out of whack.
My leaf springs for instance....What makes me think that my 50 year old, factory high performance leaf springs are worn out is that the top pick (of 2) pinion snubbers from Mancini bent badly on the very first run I made, and then so bad on the 2nd run I had to abort the run and remove the pinion snubber so I could drive. They must be wrapping into an S like crazy. I tried to get a friend to video my launch, but a wild monkey would have been a better candidate.
My T.O. bearing is making noise, and I wanted a hydraulic one anyway, so as part of a TKO600 purchase for the GTO I got a hundred off the Hydramax from American Powertrain. So the HitMaster is my choice now, where I was going to get a ClutchTamer. I could go on, front suspension, brakes, all of those parts are in now, so that is next to be installed.

 

[65Fury440]

I get it, and by no means intend any disrespect. Quite the contrary, it seems like you have a good handle on clutch operation, finding the sweet spot for clutch and throttle, as well as tire selection.
I am such a big proponent for a ClutchTamer or HitMaster launch control system because I don't get to go to the track as often as I want to, or need to, because I have so many "systems" of my car that are out of whack.
My leaf springs for instance....What makes me think that my 50 year old, factory high performance leaf springs are worn out is that the top pick (of 2) pinion snubbers from Mancini bent badly on the very first run I made, and then so bad on the 2nd run I had to abort the run and remove the pinion snubber so I could drive. They must be wrapping into an S like crazy. I tried to get a friend to video my launch, but a wild monkey would have been a better candidate.
My T.O. bearing is making noise, and I wanted a hydraulic one anyway, so as part of a TKO600 purchase for the GTO I got a hundred off the Hydramax from American Powertrain. So the HitMaster is my choice now, where I was going to get a ClutchTamer. I could go on, front suspension, brakes, all of those parts are in now, so that is next to be installed.

I feel what you are saying, been there done that.
On the topic of springs, even new XHD springs on my 65 were wrapping up excessively until a couple extra clamps were added to the front segment. Broke a yoke as a result.

That was 3/23s as well. There was so much strain on the clutch, I think half the smoke was from the tires, the other clutch smoke.

Learning the launch is all part of the fun!
Holding a cigar in your mouth while shifting may help.
Practice practice practice!!

 

[biomedtechguy]

Holding a cigar in your mouth while shifting may help.

I've seen that video...
Or maybe wave my elbow wildly like a chicken right before I change gears...
I ran 13.3-13.4 at 105-106 w/crappy 2.XX 60 ft times. My engine is powerful enough to put my car in the 12s. I cut 3-4/10ths off of 13.8s9s by power shifting, still using the clutch but never lifting off the gas. I've added a 4.10 ring and pinion gearset and the Passon Performance a855 5 speed, but I haven't run a quarter mile since because my traction sucks.
As money and time allow, depending on what "area" of the car I'm working on depends on what gets done after the front suspension and brakes, and line lock.
Likely the Hydramax hydraulic throwout bearing, because my current T.O. bearing has been making noise for a while. That would mean the HitMaster would most likely come at the same time. I'm hoping my 2,900 pound McLeod pressure plate is good enough to hang under the forces that slipping on a launch will impart, and the clutch disc too. I'm going to have to ask McLeod for advice, and the folks at HitMaster too. If I'm going to have to change them out soon after because they may be "marginal" I'd hate to have to "get in there" and wrestle with the transmission all over again. I really want to put together the rear suspension though, the Assassin traction bars and Calvert split mono leaf springs, and I'm going to match the rear shocks to the fronts I already have and get Viking double adjustable.
In the meantime I already own a Wraptor serpentine system, so I'm going to get a Borgeson power steering box because I have a power steering pump in the Wraptor system. The Vintage Air AC I bought will have to get done when I can, and the same time the Dakota digital gauge set I've owned for 3 years now.

 

[old guys rule]

Upgrade the clutch disc, at least. May need a new/better pressure plate.
Look at getting this:
http://clutchtamer.com/

Anyone know who sells clutch tamer?

 

[Paul_G]

I've seen that video...
Or maybe wave my elbow wildly like a chicken right before I change gears...
I ran 13.3-13.4 at 105-106 w/crappy 2.XX 60 ft times. My engine is powerful enough to put my car in the 12s. I cut 3-4/10ths off of 13.8s9s by power shifting, still using the clutch but never lifting off the gas. I've added a 4.10 ring and pinion gearset and the Passon Performance a855 5 speed, but I haven't run a quarter mile since because my traction sucks.
As money and time allow, depending on what "area" of the car I'm working on depends on what gets done after the front suspension and brakes, and line lock.
Likely the Hydramax hydraulic throwout bearing, because my current T.O. bearing has been making noise for a while. That would mean the HitMaster would most likely come at the same time. I'm hoping my 2,900 pound McLeod pressure plate is good enough to hang under the forces that slipping on a launch will impart, and the clutch disc too. I'm going to have to ask McLeod for advice, and the folks at HitMaster too. If I'm going to have to change them out soon after because they may be "marginal" I'd hate to have to "get in there" and wrestle with the transmission all over again. I really want to put together the rear suspension though, the Assassin traction bars and Calvert split mono leaf springs, and I'm going to match the rear shocks to the fronts I already have and get Viking double adjustable.
In the meantime I already own a Wraptor serpentine system, so I'm going to get a Borgeson power steering box because I have a power steering pump in the Wraptor system. The Vintage Air AC I bought will have to get done when I can, and the same time the Dakota digital gauge set I've owned for 3 years now.

Man, you have a lot of work ahead of you.