I think I may have just found my 68 Charger!
- Thread starter The Rebel
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steve from staten island
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Congratulation's on getting your car. You did your homework and i think for what you paid you got a very nice solid car. Some plastic is to be expected but the important stuff checks out and thats what counts. More importantly you got a car you can get in and drive this summer. Glad this story of your search ends on a happy note. Best of luck.
The Rebel
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Thanks! I could not have done it without this forum & it's wonderful members. I'll be making a donation to this site!
The Rebel
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Here's the formal report which is tough to read but I also understand it is a CYA for him. As I'm a printer I understand that you always need someone to approve / sign off on the proofs before a job can be printed. This way if you complain then the company can say well we disclosed everything to you & you approved it , so we're not responsible for any let downs.
My feelings on his report: I know it needs work, but mechanically and for the most part is structurally sound. I will enjoy restoring it from the interior out as a brand new paint job is begging for every rock, car key, car door... to ruin it.
A 30 minute video depicting the car's true condition was sent to you, and apparently viewed by you several times the day after the inspection was completed, per our conversation. Also included was a link to over 100 photos that further detail this car's condition. It is my feeling this car is in rougher condition than the seller represented. Per our two phone conversations, here are some of the highlights of the flaws noted during our inspection...
1. Weak exterior Paint. Poorly prepped cracking paint underhood.
2. Poor/ameteur body repairs with visible bondo popping out in multiple locations.
3. Overspray, and some rust.
4. Worn original seats and interior. Broken gages.
5. Original glass with scratches and original chrome/ trim with pitting, dings and rust.
6. Lifter noise ticking in engine. Oil overfilled per stick.
7. Subtle rear end whine at low speeds. (worn gear set).
8. Shrinking vinyl top
9. Visible rust out down low. Heavy undercoat sprayed all over underbody and suspension.
10. Some rust in trunk, no spare, jack or mat.
11. Aged lenses, tail panel needs restored.
12. Bumper chrome is weaker with some flaws.
Please acknowledge that we have discussed these flaws, and that you are still interested in purchasing this 1968 Mopar. If you strike a deal to buy this car for less money than originally offered, then you will be better off. This car will cost a lot of money to restore, should you choose to do this. As it sits, it's a good running car, that shifts well, and would be a solid 25 footer car, in #4 condition.
My feelings on his report: I know it needs work, but mechanically and for the most part is structurally sound. I will enjoy restoring it from the interior out as a brand new paint job is begging for every rock, car key, car door... to ruin it.
A 30 minute video depicting the car's true condition was sent to you, and apparently viewed by you several times the day after the inspection was completed, per our conversation. Also included was a link to over 100 photos that further detail this car's condition. It is my feeling this car is in rougher condition than the seller represented. Per our two phone conversations, here are some of the highlights of the flaws noted during our inspection...
1. Weak exterior Paint. Poorly prepped cracking paint underhood.
2. Poor/ameteur body repairs with visible bondo popping out in multiple locations.
3. Overspray, and some rust.
4. Worn original seats and interior. Broken gages.
5. Original glass with scratches and original chrome/ trim with pitting, dings and rust.
6. Lifter noise ticking in engine. Oil overfilled per stick.
7. Subtle rear end whine at low speeds. (worn gear set).
8. Shrinking vinyl top
9. Visible rust out down low. Heavy undercoat sprayed all over underbody and suspension.
10. Some rust in trunk, no spare, jack or mat.
11. Aged lenses, tail panel needs restored.
12. Bumper chrome is weaker with some flaws.
Please acknowledge that we have discussed these flaws, and that you are still interested in purchasing this 1968 Mopar. If you strike a deal to buy this car for less money than originally offered, then you will be better off. This car will cost a lot of money to restore, should you choose to do this. As it sits, it's a good running car, that shifts well, and would be a solid 25 footer car, in #4 condition.
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You made the right choice from what you have shown us and this report is really not that conclusive anyway. I give the Inspector 6/10 for spelling and grammar, as well his knowledge on this type of car. He is obviously not experienced in MoPars. 
The Rebel
Well-Known Member
Thanks. I do believe his report as it's not in perfect shape so better to make it sound bad so that he's covered and as a buyer there are no surprises that could come back to haunt him. Here's his ad and I do believe he's qualified to the best of my knowledge.
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I'll say it again. Any b body under 30 grand is far from perfect.
The appraisal is good. You know what you bought. There will be no surprises.
Repair what you can. Maintain and enjoy.
Let the next owner do a 20 grand restoration.
The appraisal is good. You know what you bought. There will be no surprises.
Repair what you can. Maintain and enjoy.
Let the next owner do a 20 grand restoration.
Once you get it home, just for comparative purposes, let us know what your impressions are versus the inspector's.
Congrats.
Congrats.
The Rebel
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moparjohnny
Well-Known Member
congrats roger on your purchase i am so happy for you,you found what you wanted,that is cool.its time for you now to get into the mopar well with the fbbo guys and gals. enjoy.
The Rebel
Well-Known Member
Thanks Bud! I'm so stoked to finally have a car and going to have fun working on it. I've liked fixing things and figuring out how things work as long as I can remember.
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Not trying to be nosy, but have you set a budget on what you think it'll cost to get the car to your desired level?
440fish
Well-Known Member
Congrats. I was wondering how this played out for you. Yes, you have a punch list and i'm sure you'll find more surprises as you get into it but it seems a fair price and a decent platform to start with. The days of a solid, unmolested, driver quality b body for under 25k are basically over unless you run across a distressed sale or an owner that truly lacks current market knowledge. Let me know when you get it out on the road in CT. Id like to check it out!
PM me if you want to discuss registering / paying sales tax in CT.....
PM me if you want to discuss registering / paying sales tax in CT.....
The Rebel
Well-Known Member
Not being nosey at all. This is good info to share for anyone looking to get into the hobby & am happy to share my learning experiences as you guys have helped me on so many levels.
Costs breakdowns ($28,494):
26K Vehicle Purchase
840 pre-purchase inspection
750 escrow Service
354 insurance
50 wire transfer fees
400 approx. cost to flatbed the vehicle to the storage facility
100 approx. cost for registration & plates
At this point my I've got about 5K to play with on the money I saved as well as my ebay sales. In my opinion (let me know if you guys disagree) as fall turns into winter begin to do the following:
1. Get any non-operating gauges working (tic-toc-tac, oil guage, & alt)
2. Have engine looked at for ticking, possible get rid of the aftermarket oil pan if not needed and replace with a stock one.
3. Replace worn rear gears.
Costs breakdowns ($28,494):
26K Vehicle Purchase
840 pre-purchase inspection
750 escrow Service
354 insurance
50 wire transfer fees
400 approx. cost to flatbed the vehicle to the storage facility
100 approx. cost for registration & plates
At this point my I've got about 5K to play with on the money I saved as well as my ebay sales. In my opinion (let me know if you guys disagree) as fall turns into winter begin to do the following:
1. Get any non-operating gauges working (tic-toc-tac, oil guage, & alt)
2. Have engine looked at for ticking, possible get rid of the aftermarket oil pan if not needed and replace with a stock one.
3. Replace worn rear gears.
The Rebel
Well-Known Member
Awesome! Just sent you a pm.
steve from staten island
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What must be remembered is the appraiser goes over the entire car looking at and evaluation everything. There is no its a almost 50 year old car excuse. You'd have to have a fully restored concourse level restoration for him not to find a issue with. Many of the items listed are not a huge deal and i dont doubt the seller represented it as better than what it was, most sellers do. If the rear is making noises id rebuild that first, completely. The ticking in the motor? Id be doing a compression/leakdown test and listening for any knocking in the motor. Id be way more concerned with those things. The interior is what it is and whatever your local charges to do the seats. My absolute biggest concern is the body and i think if there any surprises it will be here. Be prepared for the worst. However under the car is solid so i think you will see some of the normal rust area's and to much bondo in other areas. Paint and bodywork will by far be your biggest part to tackle. But for now id just check out the rear diff and drive and enjoy the car.
The Rebel
Well-Known Member
The appraiser said the dip stick probably didn't go all the way down to the aftermarket oil pan & it appears there is too much oil in the car which may be causing that issue.
Once I have the car home I'll be bringing it over to the restoration shop to get some quotes broken down in the order I'm looking to get things done. Paint & body will be the last thing I'm working on at this point. Instead of spending 10K on that and just getting that 1 item done, I can put 10K into it and get a ton of things done.
Once I have the car home I'll be bringing it over to the restoration shop to get some quotes broken down in the order I'm looking to get things done. Paint & body will be the last thing I'm working on at this point. Instead of spending 10K on that and just getting that 1 item done, I can put 10K into it and get a ton of things done.
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