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Intermediate shaft gear troubles

With the shim going in there it most likely won't be an issue but it's hard to make a judgment call without seeing first hand. Did you use the Pioneer bushing that doesn't need reamed to size after install?
 
Not sure who made the bushing, got it from Hughes. The bushing install tool I used says that no reaming is necessary after install. The bushing isn't too bad. Or maybe its just time to buy another bushing.....
 
If excessive oil pressure/volume is contibuting to your situation ,thought this might help http://www.milodon.com/new-images/21550.gif 21550.gifadjustable pressure regulator made by Milodon
 
After the issues you've had you use a blunt end of a breaker bar to drift the bushing in ,subsequently marring the face and want to know if it will be ok?
It could be distorted & would therefore need reaming.
If the install tool was pulling it out ,I would think you have clearance issue.The tool is there for a reason ...to push it in square.
I hope it will be ok but who knows.
 
yes, very good point. :(

so how do you get the bushing in there, or is there a preferred bushing to use? I've got the bushing install tool where you put the bushing on the end of the tool and then hammer it into place. The tool that the FSM uses.
 
I have one that I turned on the lathe. It doesn't fit as tight in the center of the bushing so the bushing won't stick on it.
 
use a standard pressure spring in the hi-vol pump; no shimming the spring.
I like these bits of info that come from old racers...they are so simple yet so effective .:headbang:

Lewtot184..... Without hijacking this thread ;) (still cam related) can you give me your take on tool steel solid lifters,compared to other std type lifters? (Eg benefits,application,overall opinion)
 
So simple answer is another bushing and try again............
 
Yep. For $4 it's not worth the risk..
Also I'd run the type of installing tool you have by Hughes ....you might have the wrong bushing for your tool.
 
i use a length of threaded rod with a piece of 1/4" thick flat steel on each end that is inserted in the oil pump drive hole and pull the bushing end by tightening a nut at the blocks oil pump mating surface. seems to work good. i've found a lot of inconsistencies in the i.d. of the bushings. some are too loose and some need reamed. the correct way to size them is with a burnishing ball but i don't have one. i just use a sized reamer with a guide that fits in the distributor hole.

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I like these bits of info that come from old racers...they are so simple yet so effective .:headbang:

Lewtot184..... Without hijacking this thread ;) (still cam related) can you give me your take on tool steel solid lifters,compared to other std type lifters? (Eg benefits,application,overall opinion)
i don't have any experience with tool steel or ceramic faced solid lifters. i do think that if a cam profile is so aggressive (heavy springs/fast ramps) that a special tappet is needed maybe a roller should be considered. an EDM tappet may be a simpler choice,....?
 
i don't have any experience with tool steel or ceramic faced solid lifters. i do think that if a cam profile is so aggressive (heavy springs/fast ramps) that a special tappet is needed maybe a roller should be considered. an EDM tappet may be a simpler choice,....?
IMO, should the cam be an agressive grind like a max effort (or near) ramp, the EDM lifter is a great idea. Worth the price IMO. Now a roller cam is another story. Make sure the right lifter is installed. The oil band should not pop out of the bore.
 
Yes, my thoughts too. Will try the MP bushing this time and will call Hughes tomorrow and discuss my experiences with the install tool and see if I'm doing something wrong. So frustrating having the Bee down with the weather being so awesome. :(

Yep. For $4 it's not worth the risk..
Also I'd run the type of installing tool you have by Hughes ....you might have the wrong bushing for your tool.

Where at in OZ are you? I've traveled around there 3 times now. Last trip was to the west coast, Darwin to Perth via the Gibb River Road. What an awesome trip. Loved the muscle cars driving around Freemantle.
 
Yes, my thoughts too. Will try the MP bushing this time and will call Hughes tomorrow and discuss my experiences with the install tool and see if I'm doing something wrong. So frustrating having the Bee down with the weather being so awesome. :(



Where at in OZ are you? I've traveled around there 3 times now. Last trip was to the west coast, Darwin to Perth via the Gibb River Road. What an awesome trip. Loved the muscle cars driving around Freemantle.
The MP bushing needs reamed after install.
 
Well supposedly the install tool I have should take care of that. Will see what Hughes says tomorrow. And the new bushing was the MP one that I used and kept getting pulled out.

The MP bushing needs reamed after install.
 
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Bushing finally installed correctly last night along with new oil pump. I wasn't pounding the bushing in far enough to get it fully seated with the install tool. Tonight hoping to get the motor to TDC, get the intermediate shaft/gear and distributor installed.
 
Turn engine over while watching the #1 intake valve close. Once it closes, rotate the engine until the damper comes up to the zero mark. That's TDC on the correct compression stroke. Insert the gear, dizzy, line up #`1 on rotor and cap and you're home free.
 
And I'm home free!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Car fired right up on third try!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



With my 10.5cr my finger flew off the #1 hole when I hit TDC!!! Thanks again everybody for the help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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