Low oil pressure on run stand.

[BeepBeepRR]

really like that test stand did a great job.

Just needs a stereo..

 

[66Satellite47]

Very neat stand & prep. I just prime the oil system & hope for the best. Doesn't look like you hurt thing too bad. If the crank looks good you can run it. Or be safe & replace the bearings.

 

[Frank Mopar]

Lesson learned is that oil pressure gauges never need to be bled. No pressure dont look there.

 

[BSB67]

Funny I guessed this same problem on another low oil pressure post and someone said there would be no oil pressure at all? !

Looking at the videos, he had no oil pressure. It's the gauge on the far right.

Pretty amazing that the bearing don't look worse.

Glad it's not tore up. I'd put new bearings in it.

Very nice test stand.

 

[Heimedw]

Beepbeep did you go solid or hydrolic cam? Just curious.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Like I said the engine never really ran longer than 5 minutes each of the 3 runs. It sucked the snapper gas tank dry in less than 5 minutes. I used Lucas breakin oil and had everything coated in breakin lube. The cam is a Summit k6401 hydraulic flat tappet cam. Last run is when I heard the rockers clacking so I shut it down.

 

[Heimedw]

Wow I'm surprised how well it was runnng with hydrolic lifters! Usually with no oil pressure the hydrolic lifters would just collapse and the valaves would barely open. Unless you pre soak them. Anyway give us a update when you get it back together.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

As I said before it had some pressure when I first primed it. Don’t ask me how but it never clacked at all till the last time I ran it.

 

[bearman]

Best of luck getting back running were pulling for you

 

[Officer Higgins]

Man hate to see that happening, me and my buddies decided along time ago with old mopars and do it yourself budget seems like you always have to do things twice. I had 440 with wrist pin knock, took it all apart sent it to machine shop and got it back together hundreds of dollars later had the same knock as before. Machine shop didn't even check them. Found out later was a Chevy lover's machine shop. Found different machine shop guy who races 440 dragster and he did it all up correctly.

 

[Pistol Pete]

I'd consider a fuckup that only cost $211 a success.

 

[BSB67]

I'd consider a %$#@*& that only cost $211 a success.

Especially when you're on a test stand.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

That price includes a new windage tray that can be reused without having to run new gaskets. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2339

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Once I’m done with it I’ll probably sell the stand I do have a 383 that I need to check out though. I need to make the radiator portion out of metal but all I had were some wooden pickets from my porch remodel.

 

[BSB67]

Once I’m done with it I’ll probably sell the stand I do have a 383 that I need to check out though. I need to make the radiator portion out of metal but all I had were some wooden pickets from my porch remodel.

Some inginuity and resourcefulness. Very nice.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Well the results are in.... and so are the new bearings... decided to not do the rear main bearing since these all looked like this.

 

[moper]

The oil goes through the mains to the rods. Did you check the rod bearings?

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Those are next on the agenda.. I have to do this in spurts since its still on the stand.. Hurts the old neck to stay down that long.. But im going to get them checked out tomorrow.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Well not so good news on the rod bearings. Only pulled one cap but it pretty much tells the story.. Looks like its coming off the run stand and going to to have to check it all out. But the crank looks like it survived pretty well. Since i'm pulling the engine off the stand I will be replacing the rear main as well. Just didn't want to mess with the seal and lose my perfect non leaking rear main..

 

[bearman]

damn sorry for your troubles but it 's all part of the build. not like we like doing things twice but sometimes it happens. make sure rods and crank check out before install.