Most significant suspension upgrades, thoughts?

[Sixpactogo]

I'll have to look it up, I believe I used a CCP brake booster? I'm not shooting for Viper handling, that was just the advertising claim from Hotchkis.

Yeah, I don't know much about the CCP unit other than I put one of them on my Niece's 70 Challenger when I built it for her. I didn't like the feel of it on her car so replaced it with a Bendix style dual 8" like I have on my Charger. Now that I think about it, I can't remember if it was 8" or 7" but it wasn't enough boost IMO. Here is a pic of the CCP that wasn't up to the task. I don't have a pic of the Bendix I replaced it with.

 

[747mopar]

I'm definitely liking the guys at Firm Feel, from what little I talked to them they seem like great guys. After a short discussion he knocked my list down to 3 items, how often does a business recommend buying less? I believe I'm going to take his suggestion, rear leaves, Bilstein shocks and a 1 1/4" front sway bar.

 

[dfrazz]

Chris just put out another video on subframe connectors and makes some good points. Skip to 5:25

 

[Dennis H]

USCartool connectors. Bilsteins. Tubular UCA’s. Firm Feel Stage 2. www.musclecarbrakes.com

Don’t get carried away. Mine handles well enough for me. Good ride, stops adequate, caught in rain no sweat. Good road car. Comfortable. AC, PW, Modern seats don’t hurt.

 

[Runner 68]

Chris just put out another video on subframe connectors and makes some good points. Skip to 5:25

More gooder.

 

[747mopar]

I thought I was going with Firm Feel, great guys but no, at least not the springs. I've had nothing but trouble with my current springs, one of the problems has been the "banding straps" like pictured on Firm Feels set walking off of the stack. Hotchkis appears to use the heavy duty straps that are pinned to the stack. Surprisingly Hotchkis is cheaper and come with hangers and hardware.

Springs, Borgeson gearbox and universal joint are all ordered.

 

[dvw]

I've built a fair amount of frame connectors. In my experience the best thing you can do? Split the floor and weld them completely to the floor. I don't buy the weld the tube all the way to the front rail in post #24 video. If it was a big enough concern the crossing at the torsion bar X memer to rail/subframe connection could be plated. "Chinzy sheet metal" is what an entire unibody is constructed from. The key are bends and shapes creating strong structures. Bolting on control arms and strut rods does little to address the issue. After frame connectors Tires, sway bars, and shocks will have more influnence than anything else. Want to make it really stiff? Put a full cage in it. Though my B body is a drag car, stiff is stiff. It's has 12 years of being dropped from wheel stands as high as 5 feet. The door gaps and outer sheet metal are still laser straight. There are no cracks anywhere. Dead stock upper and lower control arms. It also has the aftermarket rear suspension components attached to the stock rear rails. Nothing moves around there either even with over 700lbft/900+hp.
Doug

 

[dfrazz]

I thought I was going with Firm Feel, great guys but no, at least not the springs. I've had nothing but trouble with my current springs, one of the problems has been the "banding straps" like pictured on Firm Feels set walking off of the stack. Hotchkis appears to use the heavy duty straps that are pinned to the stack. Surprisingly Hotchkis is cheaper and come with hangers and hardware.

Springs, Borgeson gearbox and universal joint are all ordered.

View attachment 1793017 View attachment 1793014

Hotchkis are lowering springs, make sure that is what you want. The best springs I have found are from Springs n Things - https://www.springsnthings.com/ The build them exactly how you want and have high quality parts.

 

[747mopar]

Hotchkis are lowering springs, make sure that is what you want. The best springs I have found are from Springs n Things - https://www.springsnthings.com/ The build them exactly how you want and have high quality parts.

I doubt they'll be low enough, they're only 1" drop, I'm closer to 2".

 

[747mopar]

I've built a fair amount of frame connectors. In my experience the best thing you can do? Split the floor and weld them completely to the floor. I don't buy the weld the tube all the way to the front rail in post #24 video. If it was a big enough concern the crossing at the torsion bar X memer to rail/subframe connection could be plated. "Chinzy sheet metal" is what an entire unibody is constructed from. The key are bends and shapes creating strong structures. Bolting on control arms and strut rods does little to address the issue. After frame connectors Tires, sway bars, and shocks will have more influnence than anything else. Want to make it really stiff? Put a full cage in it. Though my B body is a drag car, stiff is stiff. It's has 12 years of being dropped from wheel stands as high as 5 feet. The door gaps and outer sheet metal are still laser straight. There are no cracks anywhere. Dead stock upper and lower control arms. It also has the aftermarket rear suspension components attached to the stock rear rails. Nothing moves around there either even with over 700lbft/900+hp.
Doug

I guess I can verify that 1 1/2 x 3 box tubing isn't enough and can definitely see having them welded into the floor as a major advantage. Yes, the upper arms I have are more for improving the geometry for driving, not stiffness. I'm adding quality shocks, front sway bar and better rear leaves for starters. Still looking at options to stiffen the chassis, really hate to gut the interior right now though.