Where are you getting the Bloxide from for $100.00?
Where are you getting the Bloxide from for $100.00?
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Everything that is blue is the same PPG Deltron base/clear that will be on the car. The black and grey pieces I am shooting with either black or grey epoxy and then a single stage paint. And no, painting bolts, nuts, washers, and retainers really blows. But I hate rust and this is the only way to rid the car of that.Are you using single stage for the small stuff or 2 stage for everything? BTW aren't bolts fun to paint!
FYI: My buddy has a 67 GTX that had undercoating since new. In some places it was 1/4" thick! Anyway, we are beginning the restoration and after he gutted the interior we used a propane weed burner like the picture below. We used it on the inside of the car on the floors and in other areas on the opposite side that the undercoating was attached to. It did a GREAT job of loosening the undercoating from the body and then thick slabs could be easily scraped off. I honestly had my doubts when my buddy suggested it, but it really worked well to get the bulk of the undercoating off.Needle scaler to remove the factory undercoating. This always seems to work ok, the thicker the undercoating, the easier it comes off.
Looks to me like the bodyshop sprayed POR15 or something like that on the entire underside. I've been scraping it off the best I can for the past couple of weeks, an hour or 2 at a time. This is some miserable stuff to get off where it bonded, but comes off in sheets in other areas. I will say that after dealing with this that I would never recommend anybody use this product on one of our old cars. I surely don't remember the bottom of the car looking this bad 15 years ago. So glad I decided to rip this car apart and start over.
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I have never used anything because I don't know what would look decent. I think the factory bolted the cars together with seam sealer in that area. And then painted the whole car together. When we blow these cars apart, they usually get painted in pieces and then bolted together, so the sealer would stand out imo. What did you do in that area?BTW what do you use for a sealant between fenders and inner fender?
That's quite the undercoating removal torch. First I have heard of that one, but imagine it would work just fine. This car really didn't have much factory undercoat, But products sprayed on afterwards is the big problem. I'm about to the point of saying screw it and calling the sand blast guy in. My arms are so sore from scraping.....FYI: My buddy has a 67 GTX that had undercoating since new. In some places it was 1/4" thick! Anyway, we are beginning the restoration and after he gutted the interior we used a propane weed burner like the picture below. We used it on the inside of the car on the floors and in other areas on the opposite side that the undercoating was attached to. It did a GREAT job of loosening the undercoating from the body and then thick slabs could be easily scraped off. I honestly had my doubts when my buddy suggested it, but it really worked well to get the bulk of the undercoating off.
Obviously, the interior needs to be gutted and I wouldn't do this to a car that has good paint, but for his application it worked great. You don't go crazy and burn the crap out of the floors either, just heat them a bit and the undercoating loosens its grip.
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Now that you mentioned that, I did use 3M strip caulk on my black Charger. It's black, so wasn't noticeable.I haven't used anything yet, but was thinking of using the rope dum dum. That way I could keep it low enough to be out of sight.
Yes, 1969 B5 code 2019. They didn't mention anything about the tints being discontinued for this one. I really don't know what the color should look like though. This PPG is definitely different than the 15 year old Martin Senior I am stripping off. The PPG is more vibrant, if that makes any sense.Hey Hunt.....that B5 formula for 69 right from the Deltron DBC database