whayden2003
Well-Known Member
If you don’t mind. What’s a gallon of that Wanda base run these days?
My GY8 '71 Road Runner
- Thread starter ct71rr
- Start date
My friend sold this original paint GY8 survivor car a few years ago. It's a good representation of what the color looked like from the factory. It looked pretty yellow gold in the sun.
$401.00 a gallon
Thanks for posting this. The color really does change depending on the lighting.
whayden2003
Well-Known Member
IS THAT CANADIAN?? DAAAANNNGG just kidding around. Thanks for the info.
It was a lot cheaper than some of the other brands I looked at. Paint is ridiculously expensive!
whayden2003
Well-Known Member
Agree. Started at a body shop around 2003. It has blown me away at the changes in pricing.
- Local time
- 5:31 AM
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2012
- Messages
- 18,282
- Reaction score
- 35,222
- Location
- Surrey, B.C. Canada
The very first time I bought paint in 1977, it was $29 for a gallon of DuPont enamel.
Hello all, I wanted to be sure I sealed in the right places before starting the final bodywork. In particular, (1) the seams at the top of the rockers, (2) the seams where the quarters attach to the door pillars and (3) the seams where the quarters attach to the trunk gutters. I was going by the 1971-72 body manual when sealing. It looks like these areas received sealer between the joints at the factory before welding, not over the joints after. Is this correct? There should not be any sealer showing in these areas?
Rocker area as shown in manual:
Rocker and door pillar/quarter panel seam:
No sealer showing in these images (only I could find on internet for reference - unrestored cars):
Trunk gutter area:
Fender:
Looks like the sealer is visible on this fender:
Should there actually be seam sealer showing, spread over these seams or was sealer applied between the joint at the factory before they were spot welded together?
Rocker area as shown in manual:
Rocker and door pillar/quarter panel seam:
No sealer showing in these images (only I could find on internet for reference - unrestored cars):
Trunk gutter area:
Fender:
Looks like the sealer is visible on this fender:
Should there actually be seam sealer showing, spread over these seams or was sealer applied between the joint at the factory before they were spot welded together?
whayden2003
Well-Known Member
Hope someone can answer this for you. Because I can promise you it needs it here. My car was stripped and repainted before I got it. It was done in Arizona and i guess they don't have humidity there like here in Louisiana and my perfect looking door jams are starting to seep rust looking water and stain things. This is happening due to them not seam sealing any of the joints. Big problem.
Hello all, I didn't get an answer on my seam sealer question. Looking more closely at the manuals I have and pics online, I'm thinking sealer was applied to these seams prior to spot welding at the factory. Super! I went around and removed most of the sealer I applied. I did leave a small bead at the joints. I figured that the sealer would most likely bleed out between the panels once clamped and welded together, leaving a bead. I'm still going around fixing small areas, getting small parts in epoxy, replacing missing brackets, etc. Not too far off from bodywork now!
Remove sealer form here:
Here:
And here:
Primed the gas vapor recovery tank that I almost completely forgot about:
And, I didn't like the way that this area looked so, I re-leaded it:
And installed the bracket I made:
I had to make another wire bracket for the inner wheel well, hard to see in pic:
On a side note, I've been looking at purchasing a tig welder for a few years. While farting around on the interweb, I discovered that the model I was looking at is available at Home Depot. I just happened to receive an 18 month zero interest coupon from Home Depot the other day. Sooo, I pulled the trigger on it:
It's a PrimeWeld 225X tig welder. It has a lot of functionality for the price and has a bunch of good reviews.
Thank for looking!
Remove sealer form here:
Here:
And here:
Primed the gas vapor recovery tank that I almost completely forgot about:
And, I didn't like the way that this area looked so, I re-leaded it:
And installed the bracket I made:
I had to make another wire bracket for the inner wheel well, hard to see in pic:
On a side note, I've been looking at purchasing a tig welder for a few years. While farting around on the interweb, I discovered that the model I was looking at is available at Home Depot. I just happened to receive an 18 month zero interest coupon from Home Depot the other day. Sooo, I pulled the trigger on it:
It's a PrimeWeld 225X tig welder. It has a lot of functionality for the price and has a bunch of good reviews.
Thank for looking!
Thank you!
Hi all, I’ve been busy getting crap done around the house: spreading loam, reseeding front lawn, weeding and mulching flower beds, etc, so I haven’t been able to work on my car. I took advantage of today’s rain and got a few things done. A small section of the roof, on the driver’s side, had a bit of oil-canning going on. I was able to get a lot of it out. There are a few low spots that I can’t bump out because they are directly over the internal bracing. I also filled in some of the pitted areas on the inside of the fenders. A few coats of high build primer will fix the rest. I also added some filler to the passenger’s rear wheel well. I was never satisfied with how this looked. I was able to install a wire loom bracket that I found under the front end of my car several months ago. I couldn’t figure out where it came from for the life of me. When I was working on the fenders today, I noticed that one was missing on the passenger’s side fender on the back of the headlight bucket.
Fenders:
In epoxy:
Wheel well:
In epoxy:
Oil canned area:
In epoxy:
Wire loom bracket:
Installed:
Hopefully I’ll be able to start working on the final bodywork soon!
Thanks for looking!
Fenders:
In epoxy:
Wheel well:
In epoxy:
Oil canned area:
In epoxy:
Wire loom bracket:
Installed:
Hopefully I’ll be able to start working on the final bodywork soon!
Thanks for looking!
71Beeper
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 8:31 AM
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2010
- Messages
- 986
- Reaction score
- 1,558
- Location
- Stoney Creek, Ontario
Awesome work as usual Chad!
The wire loom bracket is missing on both my inner fenders.
I'll have to cobble up something.
The wire loom bracket is missing on both my inner fenders.
I'll have to cobble up something.
whayden2003
Well-Known Member
Uhmmm…… You body working the wrong side!!!
I know, I’m mental!
whayden2003
Well-Known Member
I hear that. Between you and 71Beeper I’m going to have to paint my damn roadrunner just to not feel like a lazy bum.
Well, I’ve put this off long enough! I sprayed the bottom of my car this week. Seeing as this was my first time spraying BC/CC on a car, I was pretty nervous about attempting it. I had to scuff the existing epoxy primer with 180 (lots of fun) and then shoot 2 more coats of fresh epoxy so I could spray the base within the 7 day coat window. I didn’t want to use high build primer because this is the bottom of the car, it will be covered with undercoating and no one will see it. Also, I started on the bottom as practice for the rest of the car.
After waiting 48 hours, I began spraying the base which went a little sideways on me. I had the fluid adjusted wrong and sprayed a few runs. After allowing this first coat to dry, I sanded out the runs with 400 wet using wax and grease remover as lubricant. After cleanup, I sprayed 3 more coats of base. No more runs, phew! I let the base sit overnight and then sprayed 3 coats of clear. I think I did alright for my first time.
Scuffed:
Epoxied:
Base, 4 coats:
Clear, 3 coats (still drying):
My plan is to spray the engine bay next (and front frame rails) then the interior and then on to final bodywork and paint on the exterior.
Thanks for looking!
Looks fantastic! Mistakes are just experience forming.
Similar threads
