Oh boy, I think I messed Up.

[Baller]

UPDATE: Cylinder has been soaking for 2.5 days. Turning the crank bolt counterclockwise loosened it. Tightening it seems like I'll snap the bolt, which I assume would be bad. How much force should it take? I think I know that the answer, which is I'm f@*%$d and will need to pull the engine. Any other advise or tips or give me an idea how hard this should be to turn before breaking something would be much appreciated.

 

[Builderguy]

I may also temporarily remove the hood latch...

Hood latch to the forehead one too many times?

 

[69Bee]

UPDATE: Cylinder has been soaking for 2.5 days. Turning the crank bolt counterclockwise loosened it. Tightening it seems like I'll snap the bolt, which I assume would be bad. How much force should it take? I think I know that the answer, which is I'm f@*%$d and will need to pull the engine. Any other advise or tips or give me an idea how hard this should be to turn before breaking something would be much appreciated.

Refer back to post #7... Even if you get it loose you WILL need a sleeve. If you loosened a bolt torqued to 100 to 135 Ft/Lbs, you WILL need to fix the problem. At this point, the point is moot about how the water got there, The block and heads will need to be repaired, and a shop will detect any cracks in the heads and cylinders.

 

[Baller]

Hood latch to the forehead one too many times?

Top of the head actually. I'm not too tall.

 

[66Satellite47]

UPDATE: Cylinder has been soaking for 2.5 days. Turning the crank bolt counterclockwise loosened it. Tightening it seems like I'll snap the bolt, which I assume would be bad. How much force should it take? I think I know that the answer, which is I'm f@*%$d and will need to pull the engine. Any other advise or tips or give me an idea how hard this should be to turn before breaking something would be much appreciated.

Don't turn counter clockwise. If you turn clockwise it will take a LOT of torque to strip the threads, much less break the bolt. But let it sit a little longer.

 

[MoparDanMan]

The car I bought in project state had made little progress over the last 5 years. I decided this year to get it running and stopping so that I can at least drive the thing. Bugger the full resto as I have realized that I don't have time for it currently. Once I had the wiring for the engine figured out, I went to turn it over. Clunk. WTF? Clunk. The starter engaged but the engine doesn't turn over. As I lack a 1 1/4" socket, I tried a pipe wrench on the crank pulley. No way is that moving. So I pulled the plugs and found this:

View attachment 1001162

Seems that #5 cylinder had water in it at some time. Intake valve was closed. No sure about the exhaust. So, what is the best fix to free this stuck piston. I have turned the engine over in the past, so this has occurred in the past 4 years. I guess I should have turned it over by hand every so often.

I agree with the guys who are telling you to put some kind of oil in the cylinders, I prefer Marvel Mystery Oil. I've used it a couple of times and it works great but don't be cheep with. Load the cylinders up, make sure there is enough to cover the whole head of the pistons. When you do get it to start moving work it back and forth. Remember, this is a marathon, not a sprint.

 

[BeatersRus]

so,was the engine completely seized as in you cant get it to move back n forth at all?
do you have all the plugs out,and cylinders soaking?
have you pulled the valve covers and inspected the Valves to make sure one isnt stuck open?
that would also explain why one cylinder got wet and not all.
also,that looks more like condensation wet rather than full of water wet.
please let us know,esp about the valves.
if it is a valve,then its a blessing in disguise because it didnt stick open while the engine was running.

 

[12icer]

Warm the oil you put into the cylinder up, make it pretty warm but don’t burn it. Pull the oil pan and use a wooden dowel to tap on the piston if it doesn’t loosen up in a couple of weeks. When you take the pan off you will be able to see if the bottom is rusty and if the oil you put in is leaking by the piston, if it is that is a good sign you may be able to get it loose. Just repeat the oil as it leaks through, always heat it. You may be able to get a piece of rod , fill the cylinder Completely with oil if BOTH valves are closed and force the oil by the piston. Lotta work to break one free if it’s been stuck a long time.

 

[joemish]

Nobody is wondering why there is water in this one cylinder?

Nope, condensation. Should have pulled plugs sprayed in WD-40 and reinstalled plugs on any motor going to sit for extra long periods of time.

 

[66Satellite47]

The idea of a tap through the plug hole with a wooden dowel after letting it sit with the lubricant is worth a try. Just breaking that first location is the key.

 

[Durandal25]

More than anything....your wrist pins are frozen up. They are what fights the most. Take off the intake....look down at the cam.....you'll be able to see all the lifters ect. You're going to need a crank socket....not the bolt....and gently rotate left, and right to see the play. If you get a little movement, it may be easier to get her broke free. I'm going to PM you.

 

[Geff McCarthy]

A reference in this forum pointed out a comparison of penetrating oil combinaations. Far better than WD-40 is a mix of 70-80% veg oil and 20% acetone. A lot cheaper. I assume this would work also on rusted pistons.

 

[BSB67]

Nope, condensation. Should have pulled plugs sprayed in WD-40 and reinstalled plugs on any motor going to sit for extra long periods of time.

WD 40 is a terrible rust preventative.

My car sat for 12 years with no prep. No issue, runs fine. Hard to imagine condensation would effect one cylinder that badly.

Had a used, previously operational engine sit open for several years. When I pulled the lifters, there was a little puddle of oil at the lifter/lobe interface. What the OP is experiencing is not quite right. Seems like there is more to the story.

 

[Baller]

Sorry guys, been a busy day. The intake valve is closed (as the port holds acetone/tranny fluid when I fill it up). The exhaust valve is partially open (or so it appears). I'll play the waiting game and pull the valley pan off to see what the cam looks like. So far, thanks to everyone for their advice and help.

 

[GTXDAN]

I'd jack that baby up and take the flywheel cover off and use a pry bar in the fly wheel to move it back and forth a little at a time until you get it loose enough to turn it from the crank bolt. Marvel Mystery oil is the best for a stuck motor

 

[Baller]

So I took off the valley pan and noted a bit of sludge and lots of orange overspray. There is some oily sludge pools in the depressions as well. Plus, lucky me, I found a zap strap that someone left behind! There does appear to be a white grease smeared in areas. I think the cam looks newish, but I don't know. the guy I bought it from claimed a rebuild, but had suffered a stroke and his memory was no longer sharp. I'll monkey around with it this weekend and keep you all posted.

 

[dadsbee]

Orange overspray? That's rust and that lifter valley has had water sitting in it. Lifters are rusted and corroded. Yes cam looks new, which is a shame..

 

[BSB67]

Again. More to the story.

Other than a bit of sludge, both the water and the oil are gone from all the little depressions that normally hold oil for a decade.

Do you know if it has ever run? If so, how long ago?

Have you drained the oil pan?

 

[BeatersRus]

i would agree,esp after seeing that picture.
it does look like it was rebuilt and then never fired.
at this point,you might as well pull the motor out and go thru it top to bottom.
no sense taking chances,and with any luck ! youll just have to do some cleanup and a new cam n lifters.

 

[BSB67]

For me, the dilemma is the source of the water. I would try to find that before I took it apart.