Re-Rebuilding the 440-493 in a 1970 Charger

[Kern Dog]

I had the block decked to get the pistons to sit at almost zero deck and the heads measured in at 82 cc's.
The 440 source spec page show a .012 below deck piston height.
I'm quite glad to know that my rants and postings have helped you. I'm always glad to share my luck and stupidity!

 

[Power75]

I had the block decked to get the pistons to sit at almost zero deck and the heads measured in at 82 cc's.
The 440 source spec page show a .012 below deck piston height.
I'm quite glad to know that my rants and postings have helped you. I'm always glad to share my luck and stupidity!

OK cool, it looks like the zero deck height plus 82 cc heads makes up the discrepency. Thank you

 

[Kern Dog]

The oil and oil pan gaskets came in.
Balancing a steel windage tray and oil pan while trying to hold a bolt to install is a circus act.....Add in gaskets that have RTV on them, all hoping that nothing shifts out of position. I used the black fibrous gaskets that I've used with success before.
I had far higher hopes of a well sealing oil pan when I put the pan on while on the engine stand. Gravity is on your side and the steering linkage and K member are not in the way.
Regardless.....It is in. The bolts were cleaned and new red Locktite was smeared on the threads.

I used this oil again....

It is pricy......right at $10 per quart. I bought 12. No discount for buying a case.

The oil in the old filter also had that shimmer to it so I cut open the filter.

Those yellow globs.....

They are soft and really slippery. I can only guess that the globs are the assembly lube:

Oddly, this stuff is salmon colored in the jar.

Maybe after mixing with the oil or just the heat in the engine, it changes color?
Weird.
There were no shavings in the pleats of the filter. The shimmer must just be what I had hoped....cylinder wall and piston rings breaking in.
I didn't put the bottom cover over the flywheel and clutch. I want to start it up and get an unobstructed view of the back of the block to see if it still leaks. No time to start it tonight....Mary had dinner ready to go!

 

[Fran Blacker]

Have you tried sewing thread through 8 to 10 holes on oil pan and gaskets?

 

[padam]

Have you tried sewing thread through 8 to 10 holes on oil pan and gaskets?

I think I used zip ties last time. I can’t remember, damn it was only last year.

 

[Kern Dog]

I have used some "tricks and tactics" before on several tasks but didn't think of temporarily fastening them together.
The molded plastic windage tray is an excellent idea in theory but to make them work, it seems you'd need an oil pan with dead flat rails...NO indentations to present voids where the windage tray sealing ribs would not make contact.

The reinforcing indentations may or may not line up with the sealing ribs.

This was with the MIlodon pan that is also 1/4" shorter than the stock pan. The bolt holes line up but the rails are not long enough at the front or back to cover the ends of the windage tray.

 

[beanhead]

Welp, again too late to help you this time, but what I do if using the factory-style windage tray IF the engine is in the car, is make "the sandwich" on the work bench first. I use a thin smear of sealer at each layer but leave the top of the second gasket dry, as I prefer to put that layer of sealer on the block surface. Some bolts dropped through some of the holes keep everything lined up. After it sets a bit, I'll put my smear on the block surface, stick a couple three short studs in a few of the holes, and then twist that thing up over the pickup. Having all the pieces together and slightly cured makes it much easier!

 

[beanhead]

View attachment 1367584



The oil and oil pan gaskets came in.
Balancing a steel windage tray and oil pan while trying to hold a bolt to install is a circus act.....Add in gaskets that have RTV on them, all hoping that nothing shifts out of position. I used the black fibrous gaskets that I've used with success before.
I had far higher hopes of a well sealing oil pan when I put the pan on while on the engine stand. Gravity is on your side and the steering linkage and K member are not in the way.
Regardless.....It is in. The bolts were cleaned and new red Locktite was smeared on the threads.

I used this oil again....

View attachment 1367585

It is pricy......right at $10 per quart. I bought 12. No discount for buying a case.

The oil in the old filter also had that shimmer to it so I cut open the filter.

View attachment 1367586

Those yellow globs.....

View attachment 1367587

They are soft and really slippery. I can only guess that the globs are the assembly lube:

View attachment 1367588

Oddly, this stuff is salmon colored in the jar.
View attachment 1367589

Maybe after mixing with the oil or just the heat in the engine, it changes color?
Weird.
There were no shavings in the pleats of the filter. The shimmer must just be what I had hoped....cylinder wall and piston rings breaking in.
I didn't put the bottom cover over the flywheel and clutch. I want to start it up and get an unobstructed view of the back of the block to see if it still leaks. No time to start it tonight....Mary had dinner ready to go!

I use the Driven oil too, it's good stuff. And dammit yeah "pre-virus" it was more like $7 a quart from the Summit.

 

[Fran Blacker]

4 studs and nuts, just use 1" to 1.5" set screws. You can remove them and put bolts later.

 

[Kern Dog]

Well, the second pan gasket installation doesn’t look as clean as the first but it is good enough for me. Cold start and warm up showed no oil flinging off of the crank like before.

I am hoping that it holds.
My next plan was to diagnose the issue with the power steering pressure. Before I pulled the pan, the steering effort felt high, as if the pump wasn’t producing pressure. The brakes aren’t bled yet so I don’t know how they will feel. When I had it running to look for leaks, I spun the steering wheel and found that it turned much easier. It must have taken awhile to get the air out of the system. I checked the fluid level in the reservoir and it had dropped about 1.25”. Next up… summon Mary to help me bleed the brakes then I can drive it !

 

[66 Sat]

I usually just gravity bleed mine - leave them open for about 1/2 hr with a tube into some fluid, and carry on working (my car is next to my office) or doing other things to the car if it's a weekend or after work. I just pump the pedal a few times before I open the bleeder to give it a head start - it's actually worked really well and I'm not reliant on other people (usually my kids or sometimes the wife) hoping they are following my instructions.
Good work on the rear main - looks to be resolved.

 

[Kern Dog]

The brakes were bled but the pedal had some free play to it. One fix is to pull the master cylinder forward…

You then adjust the nub…

The man included another one for longer range adjustment.

I backed it out maybe 1/16” and bolted it all back up.
Tires are on, car is down off the lift.
The brakes aren’t getting boost. The steering isn’t either. I revved it up and the steering got slightly better but it is not right. The brakes feel like a power brake car with the engine off. WTF happened? Inconsistent boost to both the HB and steering box?
Either the pump is bad or somehow the fluid dead ends at the inlet of the HB unit.

 

[Kern Dog]

As a test, I pulled the lines to the hydroboost and ran a regular power steering hose to the box.

No boost. The problem is in the pump.
The five hours I spent a few weeks back screwing around with juggling pumps and reservoirs has again proven to be wasted time. I had a good pump but thought a smaller pulley would help.
Now I have to pull the pump and swap Parts around yet again. The pump sits under the A/C compressor and is a bit of a pain to get the hardware all lined up. Right now I have mixed feelings…. Pissed that I have to fiddle around with the pump again but also happy that I may have figured out the problem. In theory, the hydroboost should deliver excellent brake force but it has been a rocky road getting there.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Greg, your retired, you have excess time on your hands.. If everything worked perfectly the first time you'd get bored pretty quickly...This is all designed to keep you busy...LOL...

 

[beanhead]

That paint you used sure looks good.

 

[Mopar Hunter]

Walk away, have a beer with Mary and go watch The Masked Singer.

 

[Kern Dog]

Thanks, but.....I don't like beer and I don't know what "The Masked Singer" is.

 

[Mopar Hunter]

Thanks, but.....I don't like beer and I don't know what "The Masked Singer" is.

View attachment 1368112

I can’t stand beer either, root beer, yes. The Masked Singer is a stupid show on TV that chicks dig. Don’t watch it, I was being a smart ***.

My point was just to walk away and take a breather.

 

[Kern Dog]

A smart ***?

I fit that description as well!

 

[Mopar Hunter]

I can’t really see how your clutch master cylinder reservoir is mounted, did you get a bracket to mount to your master cylinder?