The Willomet Charger
- Thread starter 1970RT
- Start date
1970RT
Well-Known Member
Christmas break progress.
I cut out the unibody bracing I had originally setup, and repurposed it to be a basic support to the chassis.
So much room for activities.
I closed the expanded rocker shapes, and will blend them down tomorrow.
New tool addition - engine hoist I scored off Craigslist. Free.99
More time on the shop tomorrow.
David
I cut out the unibody bracing I had originally setup, and repurposed it to be a basic support to the chassis.
So much room for activities.
I closed the expanded rocker shapes, and will blend them down tomorrow.
New tool addition - engine hoist I scored off Craigslist. Free.99
More time on the shop tomorrow.
David
1970RT
Well-Known Member
Foot wells underway. Everything from here on (pretty much) is 14ga (.0747). There’s plenty of 1/8 in the rails already.
Cut these two holes just to pull some weight (1/2lb total):
Internal assembly. The L gusset ties the outer frame plate to the yet-to-be-fabricated inner chassis rails and trans mount. I should be able to pickup that steel tomorrow.
Kick up of the floor-to-firewall profile is 33ish*.
All for tonight.
David
Cut these two holes just to pull some weight (1/2lb total):
Internal assembly. The L gusset ties the outer frame plate to the yet-to-be-fabricated inner chassis rails and trans mount. I should be able to pickup that steel tomorrow.
Kick up of the floor-to-firewall profile is 33ish*.
All for tonight.
David
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do you spray some rust inhibitor as you go along? if so what do you use?
watermelon
watermelon
1970RT
Well-Known Member
I do coat interior cavities as I go with Eastwood internal frame primer. Externally, I’m way behind and need to start using a rust inhibitor. It’s generally dry in Dallas, and so flash rust is slow to form, but now I have some blended areas that are essentially done and need protection.
For customer jobs, I’ve used the new WD40SP that has held up well to the weather for months at a time. I will probably just apply some of that.
David
1970RT
Well-Known Member
Passenger footwell is build, internal sealed, and tacked.
I’m looking to fabricate the inner chassis floor members next, then weld it all and blend it all in one shot, and the engine and trans need to be in place to do that, so that’s the next step.
David
I’m looking to fabricate the inner chassis floor members next, then weld it all and blend it all in one shot, and the engine and trans need to be in place to do that, so that’s the next step.
David
1970RT
Well-Known Member
Engine and trans are stabbed. I still need to fine tune the position, but it’s directionally close. It’s 2.5” inside mid-engine territory, and the shifter position is just right at mid-thigh.
David
David
1970RT
Well-Known Member
Happy New Year, gents.
I got down the steering column, and started getting a sense for driver location. The square tube is the approximate shifter location, and hits me mid-thigh - perfect for me. At a friend’s suggestion, I started studying engine and trans offset, and there’s quite a lot of Internet opinion out there, but I’ve started rereading that section of my Herb Adams chassis engineering book. Right now, everything is 1/2” to the right. GM has the Camaro offset by 1.25”.
Drama lighting. Race car 2x8 seating.
The current setback puts the firewall between cylinders 3 and 5. I may still draw the whole thing forward some more, and elevate it another couple of inches.
More studying, and then I’ll build out the inner floor structure. The engine mounts arrive Friday.
David
I got down the steering column, and started getting a sense for driver location. The square tube is the approximate shifter location, and hits me mid-thigh - perfect for me. At a friend’s suggestion, I started studying engine and trans offset, and there’s quite a lot of Internet opinion out there, but I’ve started rereading that section of my Herb Adams chassis engineering book. Right now, everything is 1/2” to the right. GM has the Camaro offset by 1.25”.
Drama lighting. Race car 2x8 seating.
The current setback puts the firewall between cylinders 3 and 5. I may still draw the whole thing forward some more, and elevate it another couple of inches.
More studying, and then I’ll build out the inner floor structure. The engine mounts arrive Friday.
David
1970RT
Well-Known Member
Spent some time talking with the guys at Chris Alston’s Chassisworks, and resolved a few open questions related to engine placement.
They agreed with the 1/2” offset, and encouraged anything up to 1”. I’m sticking at 1/2” because the passenger side header clearance between the torque box and starter is already fairly tight.
Also, I’ve been mocking up the elevation of the powertrain in chassis, and came to the conclusion that the transmission needs to largely be flat with the bottom of the rocker beams. A flat bottom should helps air flow and eases my design for shear plates. Mike at CACW corrected my thinking - I’m not raising the powertrain in the car, but rather lowering the car on the the powertrain, correcting my perception of the change to the center of gravity. I have about another 1-7/8” to adjust. This also ensures that in the case of a wheel failure, the first thing to contact the ground is a chassisember, rather than an oil pan or the trans.
With this update, I spent the evening making small adjustments, and mapped out the inner chassis structure - measure, draw on grid paper, transfer to bendtech. The trans mount sits roughly halfway, there’s room for two 3” exhaust tubes, and the driveshaft will poke down a bit toward the end.
Onward to the engine mounts and crossmember. The bushing plates I ordered arrive Friday, and I’ve started sketching that design.
David
They agreed with the 1/2” offset, and encouraged anything up to 1”. I’m sticking at 1/2” because the passenger side header clearance between the torque box and starter is already fairly tight.
Also, I’ve been mocking up the elevation of the powertrain in chassis, and came to the conclusion that the transmission needs to largely be flat with the bottom of the rocker beams. A flat bottom should helps air flow and eases my design for shear plates. Mike at CACW corrected my thinking - I’m not raising the powertrain in the car, but rather lowering the car on the the powertrain, correcting my perception of the change to the center of gravity. I have about another 1-7/8” to adjust. This also ensures that in the case of a wheel failure, the first thing to contact the ground is a chassisember, rather than an oil pan or the trans.
With this update, I spent the evening making small adjustments, and mapped out the inner chassis structure - measure, draw on grid paper, transfer to bendtech. The trans mount sits roughly halfway, there’s room for two 3” exhaust tubes, and the driveshaft will poke down a bit toward the end.
Onward to the engine mounts and crossmember. The bushing plates I ordered arrive Friday, and I’ve started sketching that design.
David
1970RT
Well-Known Member
I spent the weekend with a tape measure in my hand. Very little fab, but got a lot done.
Forgot to take a photo, so this is off Instagram. I rendered the center supports in steel. I didn’t tack them since I still had to pull the powertrain.
Engine mount plates are in house - massively offset and heavy duty.
With the bushing in line with the forward pair of cylinders, there should be plenty of room for the exhaust crossovers.
The bushing is just barely above level from the frame - about 9/16”.
Wrapped up the measurements, and pulled everything so I can build the cradle on the engine stand. Minor dimensional changes aside, this is the design - 1/8” base with 14ga overlays. That should be plenty strong but not too heavy. The crossmember will be aluminum, and I will have to work out that exact design.
In other news, Harriet went to the doctor today for ACL surgery. She’s had a limp, and it’s a somewhat common degenerative thing for high activity breeds like her. The shop mascot is off duty for the next several weeks.
David
Forgot to take a photo, so this is off Instagram. I rendered the center supports in steel. I didn’t tack them since I still had to pull the powertrain.
Engine mount plates are in house - massively offset and heavy duty.
With the bushing in line with the forward pair of cylinders, there should be plenty of room for the exhaust crossovers.
The bushing is just barely above level from the frame - about 9/16”.
Wrapped up the measurements, and pulled everything so I can build the cradle on the engine stand. Minor dimensional changes aside, this is the design - 1/8” base with 14ga overlays. That should be plenty strong but not too heavy. The crossmember will be aluminum, and I will have to work out that exact design.
In other news, Harriet went to the doctor today for ACL surgery. She’s had a limp, and it’s a somewhat common degenerative thing for high activity breeds like her. The shop mascot is off duty for the next several weeks.
David
Greg Ducato
Workin' on it...
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I hope that your veterinarian does not have the same tendency to overbuild as you do or that pup could end up with a heck of a bionic limb. Best wishes for your Mascot and thanks for sharing this impressive build.
1970RT
Well-Known Member
Thanks Greg. I’ll look forward to the pup joining me on a shakedown drive to Weatherford.
Hey, thank you! I’m excited to test it once the car is off the table.
The trick for me is to make steady progress each day, no matter how small. Even if it’s just sweeping and putting away tools, rethinking a checklist or order of operations, or logging the hours to draw up a part.
Small bits of progress add up quickly.
David
1970RT
Well-Known Member
Fast update.
Harriet is back home and healing nicely. She’s a tough pup.
Engine cradle design is done, and headed to the laser shop.
Big weekend of chassis welding and blending ahead.
David
Harriet is back home and healing nicely. She’s a tough pup.
Engine cradle design is done, and headed to the laser shop.
Big weekend of chassis welding and blending ahead.
David
1970RT
Well-Known Member
Rendered in steel and aluminum. Lots of weld inches still to go, and a few dimensional adjustments.
David
David
1970RT
Well-Known Member
Thanks man. Just trying to up my design and fab game, and this was a good opportunity.
David
RedCoronet69
Active Member
Insanely good! Subscribed!
1970RT
Well-Known Member
Lots of TIG welding to go. I’m getting the mounts together.
.045 70S-2 55A
.063 70S-2 110A
I’m about out of argon, but I’ll get as far as I can tomorrow.
David
.045 70S-2 55A
.063 70S-2 110A
I’m about out of argon, but I’ll get as far as I can tomorrow.
David
Average Joe
Well-Known Member
I always seem to forget to fill my bottles too before a weekend of Fab.LOL
Awesome Work!!
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