Vintage Air installation in a 1968 Satellite

[Cheapsunglasses]

Progress is progress no matter how much it it is

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

The tape starts out at 5/16" and then is squished a bit in the roll. You can see where it flattens out slightly here:
Once compressed, at best it compresses to 3/16". I could pull the firewall plate and put actual gel/liquid sealant on it if you prefer. As it is, it sits close enough to look good. Your call. I used this because it was free and because I had it here already.

If so, I think I'll be able to keep the stock glove box liner.

I would love it if the stock glove box and fuse panel location can be kept as-is. Thanks for trying to make that happen.

3/16" seems a bit thick to me, but it's already in. At first I was a bit worried that it won't retain it's strength to hold the plate and accessories vertically over time with heat and vibration since it's vertical and doesn't have the benefit of gravity to keep it in place, but there are also other screws fastening it to the firewall, so it should be ok.

How secure does it feel like the evaporator mounting is now that it's back in? Right from the start I've been concerned that this Vintage Air setup doesn't make use of any support straps under dash. Over the phone Vintage Air assured me it would be ok with only the 4 horizontal bolts. Do you agree KD?

 

[1 Wild R/T]

3/16" seems a bit thick to me, but it's already in. At first I was a bit worried that it won't retain it's strength to hold the plate and accessories vertically over time with heat and vibration since it's vertical and doesn't have the benefit of gravity to keep it in place, but there are also other screws fastening it to the firewall, so it should be ok.
?

It mounts windshields and back glass without he windows ever moving... I think it'll be okay...

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

It mounts windshields and back glass without he windows ever moving... I think it'll be okay...

yes, but like I was saying, those are both angled (as opposed to being vertical) and have the added benefit of gravity and are not exposed to under hood higher temps.

 

[Kern Dog]

The firewall plate is in a state of "shear" when mounted vertical. Think of it like plywood on a wall frame with nails in it. There are two 1/4" through bolts that go from the evaporator through the firewall itself, then the plate. There are also 3 small 1/8" screws I used to hold the plate in place before I mounted the evaporator. Also, there will be the ECM, Ballast Resistor and Voltage Regulator that will get attached with screws that will penetrate through the plate and the firewall with a total of 5 screws. It will never come off unless you remove it.
The evaporator is supported at the glovebox side with two screws into the cowl. The holes of which were coated with weatherstrip adhesive to seal the hole. The evaporator is mounted rock solid.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

that makes me feel better. Thanks for that clarification Greg.

 

[Kern Dog]

Reading the directions can head off mistakes.
That is what he dorks and nerds say.

I took out the instructions and read this page.

I thought this port was for the right side dash vent. It isn’t. It is for the defroster on the top of the dashboard.

The RH dash vent is this port:

Not a problem.
The wiring had two wires that needed to be cut and have terminals soldered on.

Violet is for switched power, tan is for instrument lamps. I can tap right into the stock fuse panel in the same spot. Fuse #1 for the instrument lamps, #5 for the switched power for the controls.

This will allow the fuses for each feature to actually match what is printed on the label. Wow!

 

[Kern Dog]

The instructions….

Make note of the detailed description on #1.

Okay, it isn’t complicated but that is pretty rudimentary. The rectangle duct ends for each end of the dash:

Seems easy enough.

It is a loose fit though. I thought maybe it would be snug enough to stay on its own. I’ll need to put tape around it to hold it in place. The duct hoses should stay on though, the hose end has barbs.

 

[Kern Dog]

Duct tape??

It isn’t pretty but it will work. It is hidden too.

The wiring:

ZIP tied and tucked together.
The relay was attached to the underside of the dash.

The wires hanging down are for the calibration of the control panel.

 

[Kern Dog]

The RH dash vent duct had to be held UP to provide room to fit THIS in place:

Score !
I had to use some duct tape to hold up the RH duct long enough to fit the liner in.

No need for this.

I did find this underneath some ducts.

It covers that rectangular hole.

That would have solved that issue but the stock cardboard liner is the better choice.

 

[Kern Dog]

I hesitate to do the happy dance but it looks like the installation of the “components” is done.

It only took 3 or 4 months!
The wiring is connected. The ductwork is done.
That should have been easy.
The four oval ports on the evaporator get 2 1/2” flex hoses. They fit fine on the left and right dash vents but be ready to struggle, bitch and yell when trying to fit the hoses to the center duct end. They are pinched down oval in shape and the hoses did not want to fit right over them. The middle vent took me longer than doing the other four by double.
Everything fits. I have to put the glove box liner screws in and out the door on. Who thought it was smart to hinge that from the top ??? My ‘70 is hinged at the bottom like the A bodies I’ve owned and any other car as well. Why was that even given approval??

A LOT of the time with this has been going back and forth with a multitude of options on several issues. To repeat once again…
With a simpler kit like the Classic Auto Air “Perfect Fit”, there are not many options. The kit gets installed pretty much as described. There is good and bad with that. It is excellent in terms of ease of assembly. For the guy that wants something more fancy, you can’t do much except what I did and that was to run the #6 line different than they instruct.
This kit though…. The parts seem of great quality but I wouldn’t buy one for myself. I don’t like the added hassle of running the hoses and lines through the wheel well. It works but I like mine better.

 

[Kern Dog]

I’ll add that doing a project through the winter really took more time. My mood isn’t so good in cold and wet weather. So often, I just don’t feel like doing much. It has been improving lately and I have felt like getting stuff done.
I have had other distractions…. Christmas almost to New Years out of state, the fallen trees, my own cars, a hungry rat that chewed some wires and the usual landscaping stuff I’m obligated to do frequently here.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

I HATE the upper hinge glove box design. My old Chevy had the bottom hinge. I didn't realize your 70 Charger does also. I wonder if I can retrofit a 70 Charger glove box door onto my car...
Nice work. Looking forward to seeing it charged by the shop with R-134 and hearing about how well it's working.

Very cool photo of the rear side of my car with one of your cars in the background!

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Wait - we need photos of the ECM, Ballast resistor and voltage regulator re-mounted to the firewall plate...
And the center dash vent. I already had the dual center dash vent, but I also provided an underdash plastic piece that had a metal tab to secure it. Was that used? How was the center vent connected to the hose?

Even though the A/C is not charged yet, the heater should still work. I'm hoping to hear that you are able to test heater function that it turns on and blows hot as intended

 

[Kern Dog]

I didn't get a picture of the center dash vent adapter. The best I can do is this:

It is a long rectangle that slips over the center vent housing and it has two long oval holes. The ducts had to be squeezed and slipped/forced/coerced over to fit.
Regarding the retrofit of a '70 style glove box door, if the outer pad design were the same, it might be possible. I don't know what the Coronet and Satellite design is like so I can't answer that with confidence. I wonder if there were a way to just attach a hinge to the bottom of the door frame? I haven't given it that much thought.

 

[Kern Dog]

Wait - we need photos of the ECM, Ballast resistor and voltage regulator re-mounted to the firewall plate...
And the center dash vent. I already had the dual center dash vent, but I also provided an underdash plastic piece that had a metal tab to secure it. Was that used? How was the center vent connected to the hose?

Even though the A/C is not charged yet, the heater should still work. I'm hoping to hear that you are able to test heater function that it turns on and blows hot as intended

I used the stuff that Vintage Air supplied. The duct hoses fit their adapters and were smaller than the OEM stuff. There will be some spare parts here you may want to sell to recoup some money. I know that I would. I love free cash.
Yeah, the heater should now work. I'll have to add coolant. I've leaked some during this project. The longer heater hose paths and heater core also need to be filled up too.
This car is looking dusty too.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Thanks. I didn't know Vintage Air supplied the duct adapters. That's great.

 

[Kern Dog]

Temporary mock up of the firewall electrical stuff:

I used rolled up strips of leftover sound deadening mat.

 

[Kern Dog]

Done.

The engine started right up with no additional ground strap to the ECM.
I figure it is maybe because the bolts/screws I used go through both the cover plate and the firewall itself.
I spent way too long changing the fan. These cars are a pisser with the shroud in the way. A 2 piece shroud sure would help. It now has a stock type fan with the famous Hayden stubby fan clutch.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

Satellite/roadrunner/GTX has the ridiculous up opening glove box too, that and no factory cup holders what were they thinking!