Vintage Air installation in a 1968 Satellite

[eldubb440]

Satellite/roadrunner/GTX has the ridiculous up opening glove box too, that and no factory cup holders what were they thinking!

and if you have headrests, the passenger side smashes the dash pad

 

[Kern Dog]

I have a Wednesday appointment to get the system serviced. Until then, I have a couple of details. First is the "calibration" that was outlined through the link provided by Randy 1 Wild R/T.

A quick search and... https://www.vintageair.com/instructions_pdf/909950.pdf

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Done.

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The engine started right up with no additional ground strap to the ECM.
I figure it is maybe because the bolts/screws I used go through both the cover plate and the firewall itself.
I spent way too long changing the fan. These cars are a pisser with the shroud in the way. A 2 piece shroud sure would help. It now has a stock type fan with the famous Hayden stubby fan clutch.

I have usually unbolted the shroud and push it towards the firewall until I get the fan in and use a flat sheet of cardboard in front of the engine side radiator to prevent knuckle rash. You didn't do that? That would stress me out too.

 

[Kern Dog]

My wrists don't bend far enough to hand thread in the fan clutch bolts. I need both hands .....with my index fingers pointing at each other to thread the bolts enough to stay, then use the extendo 1/2" wrench. I've used other methods too....

The paint stir stick extension was used to reattach the fixed fan after swapping the pulleys.

 

[Kern Dog]

I don’t know if the “calibration” did anything. It works though. I already started and ran the heater a few days ago. Maybe the calibration was so close, my efforts just now had no effect?
The fan speed changes when you move the slide button, the flow of air moves to the vents, floor or top of dash when you move to their respective areas too.
Sometimes you just get lucky.
Also….
The heater got warm but not as much as it does in my car with a Classic Auto Air system. I wonder if it is because the heater control valve is in the wrong hose to the engine?

It will be hard to see but the HCV is plumbed into the water pump fitting nearest the engine block like here:

My car is the opposite. I’m plumbed to the front most port.

Both CAA And VA state to plumb one hose to the water pump and the other to the manifold. Neither of these companies are familiar with big block Mopars, apparently.
Vintage Air:

They show the bottom heater core fitting to go to the HCV then the manifold.
Classic Auto Air:

They are opposite.
This is strange.

 

[Kern Dog]

I spoke with a Vintage Air guy today.
The first question pertained where the instructions state to hook the heater hose with the water control valve in it to the “intake manifold”. To their defense, big block Mopars are not the only cars they build these systems for. Our 383-440 engines have no coolant going through the intake. The man said to use the port nearest the thermostat.
Secondly, he saw no issue with filling the system with the engine running despite the warning that Classic Auto Air states in their instructions.
A call to Classic did expound on that a bit though. Their guy said that the warning applies to when a professional shop grade A/C fill/charge system is used as it forces the refrigerant in at a higher pressure. If a man is doing it at home with small canisters, running the engine is actually necessary to top off the system.

 

[Kern Dog]

I’m not a trained mechanic. Like most of you guys, I just jump in and try to fix what needs fixing’.
For me, when a component seems to be at fault, I’ll try using another one or take the suspecting one off and try it on another car.
Earlier today I hooked up the A/C hoses and gauges to my Charger. I wasn’t able to get it to go below 20 in/hgs. I figured that my system must have a small leak.

I now have it hooked to the Plymouth.

Here it has been connected and the vacuum pump running 10 minutes:

*****************************
EDIT
After about 25 minutes, the gauge wouldn’t go over 10. When I shut the pump off, the gauge drops to zero immediately. I either have a serious leak somewhere I can’t find or this hose and gauge set is messed up.
I’ll take it to the shop tomorrow and let them handle it. I’ll be in for a bill if they have to replace O-rings in the interior or wheel opening since this system wasn’t routed directly into the engine bay.

 

[Kern Dog]

I rarely get up this early.

I had to remind the guy that Dodge and Plymouth ignition and door keys go in With the notches UP and smooth edge down.

 

[Kern Dog]

The Plymouth drew a small crowd.

 

[Kern Dog]

The shop isn’t Amish but two of the employees are.




(Not true)

First attempt. FAIL.
As I suspected, there was a leak. The #10 hose in the wheel well. That bottom one nearest the outside.

Easy pull.

It seems like when I crimped it, the hose either slipped away from it’s seat or the hose was 1/8” too short and tightening the fittings pulled it out.
The man said it was leaking out of that small hole.

This meant the hose and fittings had to be replaced since the collars on the ends are only good for one crimp.
It took numerous attempts to get the right length and even still, it is slightly long. Still, being slightly long is better than slightly short. It won’t get pulled out when I tighten the fittings.

Being in a bit of a curve, the fittings have little forgiveness but the rubber hose does. The hose was test fitted and was even, then after crimping it sits like this. It pushed out slightly but….

 

[Kern Dog]

It went up to 20” like I got on my car yesterday. It holds once I shut off the pump. I think either this gauge is AFU or the vacuum pump isn’t strong enough.
The man said this fitting seemed to be the only leak but I figured it may be hard to tell. Sometimes you fix one leak and the repaired area now allows greater pressure that could reveal another leak elsewhere. Knowing it holds a vacuum is a good sign though.
I’ll try again Tomorrow.

 

[hunt2elk]

Curious why you didn't have the guys throw their vac pump on it while it was there? Could have seen if their stuff pulled and held to 28" or so. That would have determined if your pump or hoses are not up to snuff at least.

 

[Kern Dog]

They did. Just like me, they could only get 10” from it and it bled off once they shut off their pump. Same result here and at their shop.
It was after the vacuum attempt that they pressurized it with nitrogen. The man said they do use dye too but the nitrogen leaves no residue to clean up.
I was charged for a leak test. $90.

 

[hunt2elk]

They did. Just like me, they could only get 10” from it and it bled off once they shut off their pump. Same result here and at their shop.
It was after the vacuum attempt that they pressurized it with nitrogen. The man said they do use dye too but the nitrogen leaves no residue to clean up.
I was charged for a leak test. $90.

Gotcha, I was under the impression that the bad hose got replaced at their shop. So we really don't know if there is another leak, but I wouldn't think so if it is holding a vacuum.

 

[Kern Dog]

If there are more leaks, it sure would be great if they are just something simple like a defective O-ring where it can be quickly repaired on site. The shop doesn't have a stock of fittings to repair stuff, they are primarily service only. They have access to all late model stuff where preformed replacement lines are still available.
The shop owner was impressed with the car.
"This is a really clean installation", he said. That was nice to hear.

 

[Billccm]

If there are more leaks, it sure would be great if they are just something simple like a defective O-ring where it can be quickly repaired on site. The shop doesn't have a stock of fittings to repair stuff, they are primarily service only. They have access to all late model stuff where preformed replacement lines are still available.
The shop owner was impressed with the car.
"This is a really clean installation", he said. That was nice to hear.

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Not surprised to hear a compliment on your installation job. You thought through every detail and made certain it was correct as you proceeded. I wish you lived closer I'd hire you to put AC on my coronet.

 

[Kern Dog]

The A/C systems do clutter up an engine bay. I did the best I could to make it look tidy.

There is a lot of fan noise. The car had a fixed blade fan on it when I got it. The switch to A/C meant the smaller fan pulley which turns the fan faster. This made fan noise much more evident. I tried swapping in a clutch fan and while it fits and works, the fan noise is louder. I took off the fan belt to confirm it and yeah… just as silent at idle but above 2000 rpms, the fan makes a lot of noise.
My own car…

Makes fan noise too but the engine itself is also louder. The engine and fan are about the same level.

I don’t know if the fan clutch here is okay. It is real tight compared to my cars here. It will turn by hand but not like the others. It is one of those stubby versions for better clearance.

Somehow I was able to use the standard one in my red car, the one with the longer neck.

My radiator is the ECP Speed Cooling 26” dual tube unit. My car does not overheat. I’ve driven it in 110 degree heat here in town.

I used the same radiator in Jigsaw but that car has the stubby fan clutch.

I could swap some parts around to see if anything helps. I can’t use the one from the red car, it won’t clear his radiator. My core is 1/2” thinner than Dwayne’s core.

 

[Kern Dog]

Not surprised to hear a compliment on your installation job. You thought through every detail and made certain it was correct as you proceeded. I wish you lived closer I'd hire you to put AC on my coronet.

I sure will be faster the next time I do one. Most of the delays were due to trying different hose routes and simply not knowing short cuts. It reminds me of my days in construction where you see an old timer that never seems to move fast but he gets more done than the young guys. Knowing of what obstacles lie ahead really helps.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

I sure will be faster the next time I do one. Most of the delays were due to trying different hose routes and simply not knowing short cuts. It reminds me of my days in construction where you see an old timer that never seems to move fast but he gets more done than the young guys. Knowing of what obstacles lie ahead really helps.

Plus, didn't you fall off your roof and hurt your shoulder during the early half of all of this?

 

[Kern Dog]

Another instance of a man not seeing obstacles.

I fell off the roof mid June, this car has been here since around mid August. I was healed up by then.