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I have nearly an identical setup right now. The Centerforce dual friction clutch works fine with 2.76 gears, but it definitely takes a "touch" to pull away smoothly in 1st gear. Your rocker arms are right on the edge. I've run larger cams with stock rockers. Adjustable rocker arms/push rods...

Weld with the engine installed

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I seem to recall reading somewhere that the Daytona/500 rear windows were factory stock from a van or something???? I may not be remembering correctly (?)

The delay is not intentional. Is there any "slop" in the accelerator pump arm/rod/etc? If yes, maybe you can slightly bend the rod to take out that slop

My gut instinct says go with the motor home converter

I'm building a 99% street nitrous motor. I'd like to build the engine to handle a 250-300hp nitrous shot. I'm pretty settled on some Icon 2618 forged pistons, but what about the rings? The Icons use 1/16", 1/16", 3/16" rings. I've previously run 125-150hp nitrous shot, but this is a new...

Also, maybe roll the pushrods on a mirror. Sometimes they bend slightly and cause a “lifter tick”

Maintenance used it at my work to clean a pump. The grease off the pump went everywhere

The block is probably toast, but the crank is probably OK. I suggest you use a long, solid metal bar (rebar?) and drive the pistons up/out with a sledge hammer from below

One last idea I had…..just start to tap the hole now & let the remainder of the screw get chewed up by the tap (?)

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Good move. I like the hood

Dang, I’ve been running Holleys for a long time…. Does that mixture screw have a “pointed nose” and stick into a precision hole or something??? I’m guessing it’s a precision screw/hole. If yes, I don’t think your idea would work. Maybe try a top quality EZ out and go nuts with the torch? What...

It’s not an immediate problem, but if it were me, I’d install a cover ASAP. You should check this site to buy one

Yes, that’s the one you need. Just double check to see if your shifter linkage is the bolt style (like this shifter), or bayonet style

Both of those same proportioning / hood off valves are on my OEM 70 front disc car & your rotors look like 70 rotors. Was it a late 69 build?

I don’t think it would crack a head. Yes, a leaking valve seat would lower engine vacuum

smaller feet. It’s tight there. I’ve been thinking about seeing if I can shift the console 1” right (?)

That seems normal to me