1968 Plymouth GTX

['68 Coronet R/T]

Finally got the switch panel installed.

I am still trying to trace a couple of cut wires that are hanging behind the dash. A yellow one about 5" long near the map light, which I believe is in the Dome light circuit. The other is a black wire about 8" long near the fuse box. This stuff takes so much time.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Next question.

The woodgrain dash trim originally had some foam strips in places on the backside. The radio bezel still has two IIRC. Does anyone have a picture or know where those foam strips were applied?

 

[moparedtn]

I finally gave up and bought a 1969 radio bezel. Not happy with the look as it is much darker than the existing trim.
View attachment 1517370

Now to decide if I can fix it?

Yeah, same here. Sort of bugs me more than anyone else though, apparently...
nobody has ever mentioned it to me, anyways.

 

[MarPar]

Next question.

The woodgrain dash trim originally had some foam strips in places on the backside. The radio bezel still has two IIRC. Does anyone have a picture or know where those foam strips were applied?

I believe at the top and bottom of the panel horizontally.

 

[Black_Sheep]

Sorry, no pics but on my '69 there was a narrow strip of very thin (1/16" maybe) foam about 3/16" from the outside edges...

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Someone in the past had redone the interior in black.
I had the original back armrests with the ashtrays but had to buy new front armrests. Those also came in black only, plus the replacement sun visors were also black.

Painted everything Teal blue today using the SEM Vinyl Pro paint.

Steering wheel is the next project, while I wait for some supplies to finish assembling my dash.

 

[Black_Sheep]

They look great, even the ashtrays look nice…

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Here's the steering wheel.
2 coats of color and 3 coats of clear.

Close up shot:

Tomorrow I hope to get some clear sprayed on the woodgrain dash trim. Trusting that will make it look better.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Cleaned it up and sprayed adhesion promoter then two coats of clear.
Of course it didn't fix the mismatched color of the radio bezel but at least it shines now.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Dash, brake pedal and parking brake pedal installed:

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Pulled the brake master cylinder out of the crate today and it looks pretty bad.
The washer that protects the shaft bushing was so corroded that it disintegrated when I tried to remove it.

Appears to be the original Bendix brand.

Inside was a layer of goo that used to be brake fluid.

Plugged the outlet holes with proper sized bolts and put it through the blast cabinet.

Now to get the inside clean.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

The number looks like it's 2225601 but I cannot say for certain if the fifth digit is a 6 or 8?

I actually have it nice and clean but cannot find a rebuild kit for it.

Does anyone have a source for the proper Bendix rebuild kit?

 

[1 Wild R/T]

What's the bore size? Often you can source a kit for a different application with the same bore size & just use the seals... The pistons have the steps & shoulders in different locations but the seals are often exactly the same...

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

What's the bore size? Often you can source a kit for a different application with the same bore size & just use the seals... The pistons have the steps & shoulders in different locations but the seals are often exactly the same...

1" bore.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Have a look at a Raybestos MK685 it's actually a Ford number but it's for a Bendix 1" bore M/C.... It looks pretty promising... But you obviously won't know till you check it closely...

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Here's what I have:

Looks like just two seals on it. Can someone tell me how to dismantle it?

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Okay, I am now doubting if this is actually the original master cylinder for my car.
The ramman stated the 2225601 was for an A-body if I heard him right.

Someone in the past had installed disc brakes on the front of this car. They had put the calipers on the front and in order to do so, cut the sway bar brackets off the lower control arms. When I checked the part numbers the disc brake assemblies were from an A-body.

I sand blasted them and welded new brackets on the lower control arms before applying epoxy primer:

All this makes me wonder if they transferred the master cylinder from the A-body as well?

 

[1 Wild R/T]

The A body spindles/rotors & calipers are a good upgrade. They didn't need to hack the sway bar, just swap the spindles side to side so the caliper mounts to the rear...

The Master Cylinder you have is a 68-70 Drum Brake unit...

I think if you measure the depth of the bore in the M/C you'll find it's much deeper than what you have removed... There should be another piston still in there....

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

The A body spindles/rotors & calipers are a good upgrade. They didn't need to hack the sway bar, just swap the spindles side to side so the caliper mounts to the rear...

The Master Cylinder you have is a 68-70 Drum Brake unit...

I think if you measure the depth of the bore in the M/C you'll find it's much deeper than what you have removed... There should be another piston still in there....

Yes, I figured I would keep the disc brake set up and just install it correctly.

There is another piston inside and I have yet to find away to get it out. Also I cannot get the push rod out of the first piston which is pretty eaten as you can see.

Went ahead and ordered a replacement master cylinder from Year One as this one is eating up my time and I have had no success in finding a rebuild kit for it.

I'll put it in a box and save it for someday when I have nothing better to do. LOL

And thanks for your help, I appreciate it.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Separating the pushrod.... Grab your floor jack, remove the cup, drop the pushrod through the hole, use a 1/2" rod through the bolt hole in the pushrod, you want that below the base of the jack so when the jack lifts the pushrod can't come up.... Now find a way to stop the piston from going through the top of the jack (normally it's still attached to the M/C.. Raise jack and you are done...