• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

1968 Plymouth GTX

Looking more closely at the engine that came with the car.
It's a 1970 block with F440 stamped on the pad. Here's some pic of the numbers:
Pad Number.jpg




Serial Number.JPG


Casting Date.JPG



The guy said it was running when they pulled it but I am debating whether it's worth my time.
I would prefer to get a correct D440 HP block. Any thoughts?
 
Last edited:
Got the left fender stripped and the inside in black epoxy primer.
I really like the black epoxy because it immediately reveals all the issues with the panel you put it on.
Left Side Inner Epoxy Primed.JPG
 
Yes, it does! Your project is coming along nicely.
 
Looking more closely at the engine that came with the car.
It's a 1970 block with F440 stamped on the pad. Here's some pic of the numbers:
View attachment 1534881



View attachment 1534829

View attachment 1534830


The guy said it was running when they pulled it but I am debating whether it's worth my time.
I would prefer to get a correct D440 HP block. Any thoughts?
After all the work you have done, a D block would be cool, but IMHO, not worth the time and $$$.
 
After all the work you have done, a D block would be cool, but IMHO, not worth the time and $$$.
Thanks. I think I'll wait until I disassemble the motor and check it out closely before I decide. Who knows, since it's not the original motor this one may have been machined and built especially for it?
 
Having a bit of trouble getting a glove box lock to work with this wire catch.
Wire Glovebox Catch.JPG


I am on my third lock thinking they were defective because they kept getting stuck in the open position. Now I am wondering if it's this catch that is causing all the issues?

Tried moving it forward and backward to see if that would make a difference but it doesn't. I see now why they moved to the spring loaded style catches.

Does anybody have experience with this style catch and would be willing to shed some light on why I'm having this issue?
 
Those things didn't work well when new... Also there are a few variations of the bent wire catch, Rally, non-rally I think there are a few A body & C body versions too... in 70 they changed the door to hinge from the bottom....

In fact yours looks wrong to me.... I can't say this one is right but it was listed as 68-69 B body... Well the first photo wouldn't load... And this one is for Rally Dash... We need someone to post a photo of the Non-Rally part...

806001-f9203ec77bfaab709e150e8ed2479d9f.jpg
 
Last edited:
Those things didn't work well when new... Also there are a few variations of the bent wire catch, Rally, non-rally I think there are a few A body & C body versions too... in 70 they changed the door to hinge from the bottom....

In fact yours looks wrong to me.... I can't say this one is right but it was listed as 68-69 B body... Well the first photo wouldn't load... And this one is for Rally Dash... We need someone to post a photo of the Non-Rally part...

View attachment 1538131

If it helps, this is the glove box catch from my ‘69RR non-rally dash…….

View attachment 1538155
41EF034B-8265-43BD-B2B6-88901C05B904.jpeg
 
I have found the catch sets to high. Get a coat hanger and build one a little shorter then modify the one you have.
 
You may also turn it around so the catch will hit the lever sooner and the lock will work better.
 
Started stripping the right fender today and discovered some holes that had the "cave and pave" filler treatment.
I knew this was a replacement fender because it had a different base color under the gray primer.
There must have been an emblem on the front side:
Right Side Front Emblem Holes.JPG


Also some sort of emblem at the back as well:
Right Side Rear Emblem holes.JPG


Then a series of 1/4" holes along the top edge:

Right Side Holes along top.JPG


Right Side Holes along top front.JPG


I plan to weld these shut and will have to drill a hole for the front rocker panel molding clip.
It is also in the plans to use the fender mounted turn signals, so if anyone knows the specific location and hole size(s) I need it would be appreciated.
 
Holes welded up.
For the most part it came out pretty good. They had cracked the metal in a couple of places on the body line when they hammered the holes down but got it back in pretty good shape.

The two emblem holes:
Right Side Rear Emblem holes welded.JPG


I had to use a stud puller in a couple of areas, as the filler was deep. Holes along the top:
Right Side Holes along top Welded.JPG
 
Last edited:
Holes welded up.
For the most part it came out pretty good. They had cracked the metal in a couple of places on the body line when they hammered to holes down but got it back in pretty good shape.

The two emblem holes:
View attachment 1539006

I had to use a stud puller in a couple of areas, as the filler was deep. Holes along the top:
View attachment 1539007
Looks good. I have a fender on mine that was already welded up by a previous hack. They ground the welds down so far, the top of the fender was paper thin. I ended up sectioning a different fender to replace area.
 
I ordered a rocker panel molding clip set from Year One.
Today, I pulled it out of the box and noticed that I was two plastic clips short. A metal clip and nut for each front fender but only 8 plastic clips per side and my car has 9 holes. I'm wondering about the two holes close together on the quarter panel.
Quarter Panel Right Damage.JPG


Is this factory?
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top