1 Wild R/T
Well-Known Member
Actually considering how bad that piston is I'd probably just cut it off..
I think that is a great idea.Actually considering how bad that piston is I'd probably just cut it off..
No, I go the one listed for my B-body.Did you order a master for a '73-'76 A Body?
Plan on sending it back... First, your running discs in the front, that's a four wheel drum M/C.... Second you'll want no bigger than a 1 1/16th bore, preferably a 1" bore...No, I go the one listed for my B-body.
I didn't even see where it listed the bore size?Plan on sending it back... First, your running discs in the front, that's a four wheel drum M/C.... Second you'll want no bigger than a 1 1/16th bore, preferably a 1" bore...
If your not running a booster you'll need a smaller bore M/C to try to compensate... You wind up trading pedal travel for pedal feel...
Might even drop down to a 15/16" M/C like this one..
Mopar 15/16 bore master cylinder A B E body Cuda Charger 4 bolt cast iron | eBay
This is a new in the box cast iron master cylinder for Chrysler disc brakes 1 /2 -20 and 9/16 -20 Ports.www.ebay.com
You might want to read Kern Dogs thread about four wheel discs & getting his brakes to lock up... He's done the work & spent money on all the parts testing till he got it right...
Okay, I read the thread you recommended and my question was about the proportioning aspect. You answered that for me, so I will place an order for that 15/16" bore, disc/drum master cylinder. Thanks.Bore size = pedal effort & pedal travel... But also a 4 wheel drum M/C woll have residual pressure valves in both ports.... The port to the rear drum brakes needs one, it help keeping the wheel cylinders from leaking & keeps the pistons in contact with the brake shoes... If you use that same residual pressure valve on disc brakes the brakes will drag constantly causing them to overheat... Also on a drum M/C the front & rear reservoir are the same size.. But since disc brakes need extra fluid volume a disc brake M/C has a small side for the drums & a larger side for the discs...
Okay, I read the thread you recommended and my question was about the proportioning aspect. You answered that for me, so I will place an order for that 15/16" bore, disc/drum master cylinder. Thanks.
You should be able to use your old one - don't use ANY pushrod that does not use the thick square rubber o-ring on the end of it and always replace it anytime you pull it out. That's what keeps the rod from falling out of the master. When I converted my '66 Coronet to '73-'76 A body disks I reused my original single pot '66 master cylinder push rod in the newer style master, then I reused it again in a Mopar Performance aluminum master cyl. when I put Wilwood discs on the rear of the car.Should I order an adjustable push rod for this new master cylinder?
Yes.I didn't even see where it listed the bore size?
So y'all are saying I should have ordered a '73-'76 A-body master cylinder like the one you linked to?
Where did you get the adjustable brake pushrod?
Right Stuff RC14: Universal Adjustable Brake Push-Rods for Select Mopar Manual Disc Conversion Kits - JEGS
Get the Best Performance with Right Stuff Universal Adjustable Brake Push-Rods for Select Mopar Manual Disc Conversion Kits RC14 parts at JEGS. Shop Now at the Guaranteed Lowest Price!www.jegs.com
Yes, I had looked at others and thought the same thing. Plus most of the others were twice the price.Thanks, the Dr Diff pushrod I used on the GTX has a heim joint, without the flats the brake light switch sometimes doesn’t reset. It would be easier to replace the pushrod instead of reworking the mounting for the brake light switch.