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1968 Plymouth GTX

The two holes use two standard clips... It's at the back end of the molding so it provides extra holding... In front they use a metal clip bolted from the back side... In the rear there's no access so they double up on the plastic clips..
 
The two holes use two standard clips... It's at the back end of the molding so it provides extra holding... In front they use a metal clip bolted from the back side... In the rear there's no access so they double up on the plastic clips..
Thanks. I thought it looked factory to me but wanted to verify. I contacted Year One about their packaged being two plastic clips short. Let's see what they say.
 
Got the right fender media blasted. Plan to get it in epoxy primer tomorrow.
Right Side Media Blasted.JPG


I also turned the wire catch around and tried adjusting it but no go. Now to find a spring loaded catch that is actually in stock. Found new ones listed for about $20 and used ones for $35 and up. :rolleyes:
 
Applied the ECS Automotive Concepts stencil to the VIN tag today.
You only get one chance at this, as once it makes contact there is no readjusting.View attachment 1512154

This shot takes me back about 15+ years ago when I was doing a GTX. The serial number wasn’t touched, just taped over during re-coat. Similar pic.
IMG_0283.jpeg
 
Another question for y'all.
The existing fenders were painted black around the headlights. I would like to know what other areas, if any, are painted black and how far that black paint extends on the fender.

Left Side Headlight retainers.jpg


My plan is to use black undercoating for the underside of the fender and the outside will match the rest of the car. Just want a nice clean look to this black section as well.
 
Another question for y'all.
The existing fenders were painted black around the headlights. I would like to know what other areas, if any, are painted black and how far that black paint extends on the fender.

View attachment 1539943

My plan is to use black undercoating for the underside of the fender and the outside will match the rest of the car. Just want a nice clean look to this black section as well.

Are you worried about originality? On the assembly line they were painted freehand from below. I think I have a scan from the factory assembly manual, I will try to find it. My GTX didn’t get the blackout treatment because it’s a TX9 car, but seeing body color through the grille is one of my biggest pet peeves.
 
Are you worried about originality? On the assembly line they were painted freehand from below. I think I have a scan from the factory assembly manual, I will try to find it. My GTX didn’t get the blackout treatment because it’s a TX9 car, but seeing body color through the grille is one of my biggest pet peeves.
Not really worried about it being factory original, just not wanting to have to do things twice.
If I paint it wrong and it looks stupid, then I will have to pull it back apart and fix it.

Here's the section in epoxy primer (rotated the picture to get it oriented a bit closer):
Right Side Headlight area in Epoxy.jpg
 
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You can cut off any of the tabs and weld to new panel. That way it remains the stock look. Your project is looking great and being the gentleman hot rod rod only adds favor to it all. Good luck
 
This car had some front end damage when I got it.
You can see in the picture below a number of things aren't right. The grille frame got pushed in and the lower chrome molding is dented up.
The center insert was cracked as well but I was able to repair that.
Checking on the cost of replacement chrome moldings but nobody seems to have them in stock. Next step is to remove the moldings and try to straighten and buff them so they shine again. Anyone had success with this approach?
Front damage.jpg
 
DSC05061.JPG
Original, fresh out of the field 14 years ago. Note blackout behind headlights.
 
This car had some front end damage when I got it.
You can see in the picture below a number of things aren't right. The grille frame got pushed in and the lower chrome molding is dented up.
The center insert was cracked as well but I was able to repair that.
Checking on the cost of replacement chrome moldings but nobody seems to have them in stock. Next step is to remove the moldings and try to straighten and buff them so they shine again. Anyone had success with this approach?
View attachment 1545427
Im sure they can straightened and buffed to like new, but it's guna take you a lot of time or $. Personally, I like that kind of work (not that im any good at it, mind you lol), so it wouldn't be a big deal to me.

Zack @5.7 hemi used to do that kind of work (and he's friggin great at it from what I've seen), but Im not sure he has set the buffing shop back up since he moved.

Btw, I thought of you when I saw this ad...

 
@cudachick may handle this kind of work with her powder coating work..
 
Here's the right fender after a bunch of holes welded up.
One coat of sealer, plan is to spray the paint and clear tomorrow.
Right Side in White Epoxy Sealer 1.JPG


Media blasted and sprayed the hood hinges with white epoxy as well:
Hinge in White Epoxy Sealer.JPG
 
What color stripes will it get? That’s a great color and I like the slick roof much more than a vinyl top. Nice work…
 
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