What's it Worth 1970 HP2 440

[sixpkrt]

Engine came out of a Charger. Mid 80's rebuild, but not sure what cam is in it, or if it's been bored out to different specs, but it also included the original 6 pack rods & pistons, so I'm going to guess this was a built engine. It also has the 6-pack harmonic balancer as seen in the pic.
After putting the 1 1/4 socket on the crank bolt, the engine turns freely and is not locked up.
I know these HP2 engines carry some value to the right person, so what's it worth?

 

[cosgig]

HP2 means that is an HP engine built on the 2nd shift. Some people like the “6pak” rods, some people don’t. They’re heavy, and nowadays there’s better options. That being said, you would have to open up the engine and make a good check of all the internals to make an educated guess as to the value. As is, with iron heads, and no internal facts to certify it’s condition, and being an “80’s” rebuild, $1100-$1500, if it can be made to run as is. More if you can clarify some facts, or there’s good stuff in it or on it, and certainly worth a lot more to the owner of the car it originated from.

 

[#41]

It's a gamble to prospective buyers, meaning some people would not touch it without at least taking a head off for inspection, while others may pay that price. At the very least I'd want to know what the overbore is and if the valve seats are not sunken or rusted up. If you have some confidence, put it on an run engine stand and get a lot more for it.

 

[sixpkrt]

and being an “80’s” rebuild, $1100-$1500,

Honestly? $1100 - $1500 seems low for a complete carb to oil pan HP engine.
(unless, you were referring to what the cost of an 80's big block engine build was back then, I'd agree with you)
I sold a 1968 D, HP in 2010 for $1400, without an intake manifold or water pump housing.
eBay is all over the place, as high as $15K, for a complete rebuild, and just the HP blocks are listed between $1200 & $2200 currently.
I agree this engine would be more valuable to the owner with the original car.
At a crossroad right now if I should keep it and rebuild it or let it go.

Here's a few more pics...

 

[dadsbee]

Like they say, if you don't want honest answers.. don't ask the question.

Running 383's sell for a few hundred dollars. 440's a tad more. I like the block casting date and had a deal on a similar situation engine for $1000US last month, until the guy decided not to sell it.

 

[cosgig]

Honestly? $1100 - $1500 seems low for a complete carb to oil pan HP engine.
(unless, you were referring to what the cost of an 80's big block engine build was back then, I'd agree with you)
I sold a 1968 D, HP in 2010 for $1400, without an intake manifold or water pump housing.
eBay is all over the place, as high as $15K, for a complete rebuild, and just the HP blocks are listed between $1200 & $2200 currently.
I agree this engine would be more valuable to the owner with the original car.
At a crossroad right now if I should keep it and rebuild it or let it go.

Here's a few more pics...View attachment 1833397
View attachment 1833398
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View attachment 1833400View attachment 1833401

“Mid 80’s rebuild” means that the engine was rebuilt 30 some years and how many miles ago? And from your pictures, it is probably a stock rebuild. Where are the pictures of the cylinders, any information on what pistons are in it? How are the lower bearing and cam bearings? What can is in it? How are the lobes? If I pay for it, am I installing a tired 30 year old rebuild that I’m going to have to go through in 6 months? You don’t think $1100-$1500 is fair for an engine that is mostly unknown as to the condition? I can buy that all day for $500 and just rebuild it. HP means nothing in todays market, you can build a monster 440 out of a 77 motor home. The only premimum on that engine is the VIN number to the original car.

 

[sixpkrt]

some people would not touch it without at least taking a head off for inspection

I was planning on tearing down this 383 before the 440 dropped in.
The 383 just became 2nd in line.
Now I'm curious too.

 

[sixpkrt]

“Mid 80’s rebuild” means that the engine was rebuilt 30 some years and how many miles ago? And from your pictures, it is probably a stock rebuild. Where are the pictures of the cylinders, any information on what pistons are in it? How are the lower bearing and cam bearings? What can is in it?

That is genuinely a fair statement. As alluded to in my 1st post, I know nothing about the build that was done in the 80's.
A tear down is warranted to answer these questions.

 

[GTXDAN]

Maybe do a leak down test on it to get some idea of the condition as it sets, and if possible stick a scope in the cylinders to look around.

 

[70chall440]

The value is really dependent on so many factors not the least of which is your area.

Unless someone is looking for a "runner" to drop into something right away the "80's rebuild" info is pretty much a wash. The real potential buyer is someone who has a car that he is looking for a relatively correct engine for.

Based on all that, here in WA state I would say that engine is worth probably around $1000.

 

[Dutchrebuild]

I see a 70 HP short block... engine clearly has 516 heads on it, which have nothing to do with a 70 HP 440...could be .060 over with wear. As it sits, I wouldn't even pay a grand

 

[autoxcuda]

The value is in the bare block, vibration dampener, and factory deep oil pan (is that still on it?), dual point distributor if good numbers there.

The rest are incidentals that do add up, but nothing really special.

The question to buyer is: it was pulled out for a reason. I’m gambling to find out.

Friend bought a similar complete long block 72 400 HP, 230 “cold weather” assembled original block. Grungy with original valve covers and intake.
…Std bore. Lengthwise cracks on side and valley. And crack in one bore. It’s off to the metal scrap heap

Appeared to be frozen without anti freeze. You can feel where the block is slightly pushed out along the long cracks

It’s only rusty since it’s been outside in his bed a couple weeks and it rained. It was totally cleaned to rusts super easy.

 

[F4R/T]

What’s the VIN on the pan rail will help determine a value of the car is still in existence. Otherwise a good core value and worth a little more with the right casting dates... beauty is in the eye of the beholder! Also buyer beware applies.

 

[sixpkrt]

Explain "buyer beware applies"

 

[F4R/T]

Buyer beware means don’t get caught with your pants down. Measure ,inspect and verify if you want premium dollar . Be willing to back up what your selling or it’s just a core. What is the other saying Caveat emptor. A documented &running engine will always fetch more.

 

[sixpkrt]

Well, I just got the engine on Saturday and just posted here to get an opinion on the value.
Not sure if I'd keep it or not and was weighing part of the decision on its value. If it's value is truely as low as most has stated in this tread, I'll gladly keep it. Fetching a premium dollar amount was never my intent. It's not often these HP engine's come up for sale anymore, that's why the motorhome blocks are the ones that people are now using in their Mopars.
I'd personally rather have a date coded HP in my Mopar than an engine from Winnebago.

 

[gdrill]

Lowball all you want. Then go find one.

I just sold a good 73 hp 440 block bare for $600CAD.

 

[gdrill]

If it was indeed a four speed Charger, the VIN may help your sale.

 

[Nxcoupe]

Well, I just got the engine on Saturday and just posted here to get an opinion on the value.
Not sure if I'd keep it or not and was weighing part of the decision on its value. If it's value is truely as low as most has stated in this tread, I'll gladly keep it. Fetching a premium dollar amount was never my intent. It's not often these HP engine's come up for sale anymore, that's why the motorhome blocks are the ones that people are now using in their Mopars.
I'd personally rather have a date coded HP in my Mopar than an engine from Winnebago.

I have been looking around for one. I would say pull the oil pan and you should be able to determine what crank, rods, pistons it has pretty quickly. As for the block itself, std bore bare, 1200 to 2k is what I see them for on a regular basis and they don't seem to last long at all. If it has some really good parts in it, and it's .030" over or Std bore, h beam rods, forged pistons, etc, 3500 to 4500 isn't too far out of line and leaves negotiating room. It really depends on how many miles on the rebuild and how big of an overbore, etc. Too many unknowns currently. The balancer and the block are the money items.

 

[sixpkrt]

If I have time this week, I'll drop the oil pan.
The original 6 pack connecting rods/pistons came with the block. I'm curious to what's in there now.