• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

And so it begins..... my new garage

Reasons maybe lack of man power. Power screed might not be long enough. Availability of concrete or any number of other reasons.
As said above above one pour just put 1 truck on one side and the second on the other. We starte
No, my point is that out here, the entire slab is poured before any framing is done. All perimeter walls rest ON the concrete.
Gotcha. Here in the freezing north you really want all structural support 3-4ft deep in the ground, once the footing/foundation is in the floor is nothing more than a floor that can be poured at any time. Personally I like doing it this way especially in Ohio where the weather is so unpredictable, you've got shade, shelter and control over the temperature. This particular addition is pole barn style but instead of burying post 3ft deep I pour 3ft deep concrete post and leave them well above ground level then anchor the post to them. Here's a picture where you can see the post, this allowed me to build a 6" thick perimeter of foam around the slab as well filling the cavity under the wall. I'm leaning towards metal siding inside (easy powerwash cleanup), if so I'll stud in between the post horizontally 2' on center giving me an easy way of insulating and hanging the siding.

Another reason at least for me is keeping all framing well above ground level... again Ohio weather.

20191126_173339.jpg
 
Last edited:
It is good to see the thermal break on the outside perimeter to keep the heat in
 
No, my point is that out here, the entire slab is poured before any framing is done. All perimeter walls rest ON the concrete.

That may be ok for warm climates or an unheated shed that does not need frost protection
 
Yeah, that is something that I have not dealt with.
 
It is good to see the thermal break on the outside perimeter to keep the heat in
I talked to many people all of you on here included and took all advice into seriously, because of all of you I'm pretty confident that it will work out awesome.
 
Exterior thermal break also reduces the footing depth requirement here. That can be a concrete cost savings.
 
Finally warmed up where I could pull the tarp and clean it up,turned out nice! I used the same french drain in the other part and it cracked off of every corner of the drain so that's how I had him cut the floor.
20191201_155906.jpg
 
Looks like it turned out really nice...:thumbsup:

On schedule and on budget...That rarely happens...:BangHead:
Can't thank you enough for all the pointers and mapping out the PEX, your diagram definitely helped. Like I said before getting so much feedback from members really helped, because of it I feel I covered all my bases and left nothing to question.

Christmas bonus time was good to me so I'll be ordering a garage door asap then getting this thing insulated in hopes of trying out the heat before winters end.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top