FiTech efi

[GITEX]

This was the first firing, kinda grainy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9CkJ17IKxQ

this was the second
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQIJNMqmKck

And today nice enough to take it out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgP7KafLedg

 

[Yatzee]

I just finished a FiTech install on my 64 Fairlane with a stroked 302. I had previously done an MSD on my Mopar 512 stroker so I've been priveledged to experience both installations. Neither installation is cheap to do properly and both included in-tank pump and new flex fuel lines. Here's the differences that I noticed. The wiring on the FiTech is not as clean or simple as MSD. With the FiTech I was able to run most of the forward wiring under the intake manifold but was not necessary with the MSD. Both connect directly to a Holley style carb linkage setup on the side of the throttle body.
The rear vacuum ports on the FiTech are too close at the 3/8 (power brake booster) inlet and the 3/16 port right next to it. True vacuum hose has a thicker wall and getting them both on was a bit of a bear. Setup on the Fitech was not quite as simple or accurate for my application as the MSD unit and I can't help but notice how much quicker the MSD starts the engine with it's variable "squirt" setting. The Fitech can and does control the in-tank pump with PMW and the cooling fan very well and I advise anyone doing this setup to take advantage of this feature. All in all the jury's still out on who makes the better unit but time will tell. I personally prefer MSD but that's only after installing both. Regardless, I would still never install a fuel canister under the hood for safety reasons and I'm sure FiTech will change it's engineering in the very near future.

 

[kz5rt2]

Very nice install, could you post a few pics showing how you installed the fuel command center?

I have a 64 Plymouth Belvedere with factory ac. I'm not sure how I'll run the fuel.

 

[sclee440]

Well, I finally was able to get my engine on the dyno yesterday. Six months later than I had planned, but things turn out that way sometimes. Oh, and of course along the way I had to add a tunnel ram and an extra throttle body just because... As it turns out, I'm glad I took my time on the combination. Turned out better than I hoped. Just like most of the videos I've watched with the Fitech units, the engine fired right up. No drama, no wtf moments. After a few break in runs to let it find itself, made 5 power pulls. Got better every pull. Final results, 733HP @ 6300 and 675 lbs. ft between 4800 and 5200 rpm. I couldn't be happier. This was using the MSD unit on the dyno, but letting the fitech control the timing. Didn't mess with it too much, just adjusted the timing a bit and also adjusted the idle to get the IAC counts down a bit.

 

[59CumminsRam]

Very nice install, could you post a few pics showing how you installed the fuel command center?

I have a 64 Plymouth Belvedere with factory ac. I'm not sure how I'll run the fuel.

Here's the FCC I just installed on a 72 Cuda. Should have intake installed tomorrow and start working on kick-down modifications for the Edelbrock top-end kit.

You can see my 65 Coronet in the background of the first picture waiting patiently for me to finish the Cuda so I can tear it apart next.

 

[not so famous bob]

tell us about the engine parts for that 733 h.p. puppy. I f u have already, I missed it .--------bob

 

[sclee440]

tell us about the engine parts for that 733 h.p. puppy. I f u have already, I missed it .--------bob

440 Source 400/512 stroker kit
10.6:1 Compression
Indy EZ Max Wedge heads fully CNC ported by Modern
Lunati solid roller 60333, 279/285 adv. duration, .585/.600 lift
Harland Sharp 1.6 roller rockers bring lift to .624/.640
Isky EZ roll max lifters
Indy Tunnel Ram ported by Modern to match heads
Fitech fuel injection dual quad power adder

 

[Jackpot50]

You want to come down for the FI install - well come on down! You bring the beer (for after we're done) and I'll cook up some good grub. I talked to the FiTech at length today, I liked what I heard. Went ahead and ordered the TBI and FCC - TBI is on the shelf but the FCC is b/o three weeks. I'll keep everyone posted.

Yea keep us in the loop on this one, Thanks

 

[CoronetDarter]

440 Source 400/512 stroker kit
10.6:1 Compression
Indy EZ Max Wedge heads fully CNC ported by Modern
Lunati solid roller 60333, 279/285 adv. duration, .585/.600 lift
Harland Sharp 1.6 roller rockers bring lift to .624/.640
Isky EZ roll max lifters
Indy Tunnel Ram ported by Modern to match heads
Fitech fuel injection dual quad power adder

All I can say is 'DAMN'!

 

[CoronetDarter]

It took a lot longer to install the unit than originally thought, but isn't that always the case. Installed the FCC back in January (post 50); been working on other parts of the car since. Got it running with the Eddy carb, put about 10 miles on it and then off it came. Wasn't able to connect on the burgers n brew; most of the work was done during the week after work.
Overall, a very straight forward install. The instructions are dead on.
Since the car was still mostly apart I prewired ahead of time, ran the power wire back to the trunk battery while the carpet was still out. If your battery is up front, wiring is a snap.

The unit literally installs in hours; harnesses are plug n play. Had to do some minor crimping and soldering because the supplied wires were too long and looked messy. Ran the cables for the handheld device through the firewall by punching a hole through the unused 4 spd grommet.


First heads up: I drilled the hole in the collector for the O2 sensor bung while the headers were off the car. Installed the headers, had the exhaust welded up. The sensor has to be at least 10* above parallel to keep off condensation. When I installed the O2 sensor, there is only about 1/4" clearance to the torsion bar. I got lucky! Another couple of degrees higher and the sensor wouldn't have cleared.


Zip tied the cable to the body; there's a hole in a body gusset that looks like it was put there just for this. However, even though the O2 cable and harness are fairly long, there's barely any slack. It would not be long enough to install on the DS header. If you're installing with the drive train in place, measure before drilling the hole in the collector.

To be continued....

 

[CoronetDarter]

Next up - the fuel lines. Using the FCC it's only a matter of disconnecting the OEM fuel line from the carb, plug in an inline fuel filter (not provided) and route to the FCC. Then from the FCC to the throttle body.
On my engine the outlet hose from the fuel pump is 5/16"; the FCC hose is 3/8". Had to find a fuel filter with 5/16" inlet, 3/8" outlet. Took a while, the counter guy at O'Reillys was very patient finding one. BUT, it's a Ford filter , don't tell anyone.



FITech supplies the inline filter from the FCC to throttle body

System installed; just need to hook up the linkage, throw on the air filter and go for a test drive. But wait...

Forgot to mention - the FITech doesn't required a return line which is convenient but does need a vent line to the gas tank. I ran a 1/4" flex hose along the driver's side frame rail and plugged it in to one of the two vents coming out of the gas tank.

 

[CoronetDarter]

So, a couple of loose ends to tie up. First, the hood won't close - air filter is in the way. Apparently RPM intakes and flat hoods don't play well together. Wound up getting a K&N drop filter assembly with a 3" element, p/n 66-3040. Gives just under 1/2" clearance Clarence; not ideal but I wanted to keep the hood insulation on; K&N has a
2 5/16" element but it flows considerably less CFM's (according to the K&N tech I talked to).
Problem was, the 180* fuel fitting out of the throttle body interfered with the drop down base. You can see it in the top photo above. Back to Summit, bought two 90* fittings and now everything fits.
the FITech TB has Holley style linkage so if you're swapping over from an Eddy carb the linkage won't work; those of you with a Holley carb have the linkage figured out already. Decided to go with the Lokar throttle and kick-down cables in black stainless steel. Also have to get the carb bracket. The Lokar product was relatively easy to install - great instructions. Working around headers is a royal pain, but other than that the two cables can be installed in a weekend (one day if you're running stock exhaust).
If your drivetrain is out and you're considering going Lokar, I suggest you bite the bullet and just get 'em, the kickdown install would be so much easier outside the chassis.
The Lokar simply replaces the linkage on the kick down lever, the cable loops around and snakes up the firewall. The cable attaches to one of the tailshaft mounting bolts.


The carb bracket instructions have you set up bracket while bolted to the carb base; it's easier to assemble the kickdown attachment off the car.


Finished install:

Notice the 90* fitting. Also, hard to see but on the firewall side of the cable connectors where they attach to the bracket you'll see a ferrule on each cable; cleans up the look of the cable end. The ferrule slides easily back and forth; on the kick down cable wrap some tape about a foot or two from the end to prevent the ferrule from sliding down the cable and becoming lodged between the top of the tranny and floor pan. Don't remove until completely done; it saved me a couple of times.

On B Body installs, you only need the 24" throttle cable kit; I bought the 36" kit and wound up cutting 2/3 off.

Done. Really cleans up the top of the engine; no more linkage, bell crank, throttle hold down or front return spring.

 

[CoronetDarter]

One last note: all EFI systems require power in both START and RUN; our old Mopars are engineered to bypass all accessory circuits during START. If you have a ready-to-run distributor, Pertronix for one, that eliminates the ballast resistor, you can splice the EFI IGN lead into the jumper and achieve START/RUN capability.
I have the Petronix distributor; the photo shows the blue jumper wire between the ballast resistor connectors with the white FiTech IGN wire spliced into the connector.

 

[59CumminsRam]

One last note: all EFI systems require power in both START and RUN; our old Mopars are engineered to bypass all accessory circuits during START. If you have a ready-to-run distributor, Pertronix for one, that eliminates the ballast resistor, you can splice the EFI IGN lead into the jumper and achieve START/RUN capability.
I have the Petronix distributor; the photo shows the blue jumper wire between the ballast resistor connectors with the white FiTech IGN wire spliced into the connector.

View attachment 345371

Thank you for that info! I've been thinking about doing the exact same thing when I wire mine. Seriously thinking of using the EFI to control the timing as well. Pace has new distributors built exclusively for us FiTech guys wanting to use timing control.

http://paceperformance.com/i-238413...ro-billet-electronic-distributor-red-cap.html

In case anyone hasn't seen the thread over on FABO on FiTech installs, prepare to spend some time on this thread. The last 5 or 6 pages are very good.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/fitech-efi-system.321984/

 

[59CumminsRam]

So, a couple of loose ends to tie up. First, the hood won't close - air filter is in the way. Apparently RPM intakes and flat hoods don't play well together. Wound up getting a K&N drop filter assembly with a 3" element, p/n 66-3040. Gives just under 1/2" clearance Clarence; not ideal but I wanted to keep the hood insulation on; K&N has a
2 5/16" element but it flows considerably less CFM's (according to the K&N tech I talked to).
Problem was, the 180* fuel fitting out of the throttle body interfered with the drop down base. You can see it in the top photo above. Back to Summit, bought two 90* fittings and now everything fits.
the FITech TB has Holley style linkage so if you're swapping over from an Eddy carb the linkage won't work; those of you with a Holley carb have the linkage figured out already. Decided to go with the Lokar throttle and kick-down cables in black stainless steel. Also have to get the carb bracket. The Lokar product was relatively easy to install - great instructions. Working around headers is a royal pain, but other than that the two cables can be installed in a weekend (one day if you're running stock exhaust).
If your drivetrain is out and you're considering going Lokar, I suggest you bite the bullet and just get 'em, the kickdown install would be so much easier outside the chassis.
The Lokar simply replaces the linkage on the kick down lever, the cable loops around and snakes up the firewall. The cable attaches to one of the tailshaft mounting bolts.

View attachment 345359 View attachment 345360
The carb bracket instructions have you set up bracket while bolted to the carb base; it's easier to assemble the kickdown attachment off the car.
View attachment 345361

What were your Lokar part numbers?

 

[magvan]

fitech efi on my 440. this is a 54k mile late model low compression engine that has been sitting for about 10 years. pulled the pan and the heads, everything looked great so i stuffed it in the truck. unknown cam, performer intake and hedman headers. this has literally been running for 15 minutes.

system is very voltage sensitive. i find if the battery is low at all the vehicle will not start

 

[CoronetDarter]

What were your Lokar part numbers?

XKD-2727-HT - Kickdown cable
XTC-1000HT36 - Throttle cable (although I recommend the HT24 - you don't need the extra foot)
XSRK-4000 - Bracket

All are available at Summit.

 

[59CumminsRam]

XKD-2727-HT - Kickdown cable
XTC-1000HT36 - Throttle cable (although I recommend the HT24 - you don't need the extra foot)
XSRK-4000 - Bracket

All are available at Summit.

Thanks! Ordered them from Johnny at Pace Performance last week. I found them on Lokar's website, read the instructions and found the proper throttle bracket. Glad my part numbers matched yours! Now I have to get the Koul Tools AN push-lock hose fittings press tool. Those things are are a beotch!

 

[Mike67]

XKD-2727-HT - Kickdown cable
XTC-1000HT36 - Throttle cable (although I recommend the HT24 - you don't need the extra foot)
XSRK-4000 - Bracket

All are available at Summit.

Looks great & impressive! Ive been researching the fitech/fast/ msd just to compare so if the day ever comes I decide to go that way... I kind of like the fcc, but like others have said here it is kids scary having a gallon of fuel under the hood... But I wanted to ask you are the fccs insulated in anyway? Seems to me that would beneficial since its under the hood....or even if it was double walled....
Awesome job thanks for all of the updates!

 

[CoronetDarter]

Thanks! Ordered them from Johnny at Pace Performance last week. I found them on Lokar's website, read the instructions and found the proper throttle bracket. Glad my part numbers matched yours! Now I have to get the Koul Tools AN push-lock hose fittings press tool. Those things are are a beotch!

I've been following Johnny on the FiTech thread over at FABO. If I decide to go EFI on the Dart I'll be looking him up.