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Hawk-Rod: The "Tune-Up"
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Gary P
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That's the cool thing about this site: You get inspired by my thread, I get inspired by yours, we both build some cool cars!
nchrome
Well-Known Member
For a stock look in the engine compartment why do you have that distributer cap like that in there? That's not stock or even near original.
My car is fuel injected and also has computer controlled timing. I need both a cam signal (1x per revolution) and crank signals (8x per revolution). There are no distributors I have found that do that with a Mopar cap - they all use a Chevy cap. MSD has one that has a smaller cap, but the base is the same size and it is still a Chevy style cap.
Bottom line: Find me a Mopar cap distributor with both a cam and crank signals, and I'll gladly buy it! I would love to get rid of the hideous Chevy cap! But until I find one, I am stuck with a Chevy cap.
Hawk
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It ran!!! 
So I took a video, but I don't remember how to post one up from my phone.
So it started right up and ran OK after we primed it and set timing, did final checks, etc. We quickly messed with a couple of tuning parameters and it runs well above 1000 RPM, but idles a bit rough at 750. In comparing it to the videos from when it was in the Barracuda, it might be at least in the ballpark. This might just be a lopey (spelling?) idle due to the cam, and I am sure we need better tuning parameters too.
I definitely need more time to tune it with the computer. However, we hear a very slight noise from the valve covers. While the engine does not make noise when turning it by hand, when running it might just have a tiny bit of interference with the rockers and the valve covers, So I'm going to let it cool down, and add a second set of gaskets to the valve covers tomorrow or Saturday. We didn't want to run it long with the interference.
Then I'll do more adjusting of the computer and see where I end up. Once it seems to be running reliably, I'll try taking it around the block.
Sorry, no other pictures tonight - I'll check back once I get it further along.
Hawk
So I took a video, but I don't remember how to post one up from my phone.
So it started right up and ran OK after we primed it and set timing, did final checks, etc. We quickly messed with a couple of tuning parameters and it runs well above 1000 RPM, but idles a bit rough at 750. In comparing it to the videos from when it was in the Barracuda, it might be at least in the ballpark. This might just be a lopey (spelling?) idle due to the cam, and I am sure we need better tuning parameters too.
I definitely need more time to tune it with the computer. However, we hear a very slight noise from the valve covers. While the engine does not make noise when turning it by hand, when running it might just have a tiny bit of interference with the rockers and the valve covers, So I'm going to let it cool down, and add a second set of gaskets to the valve covers tomorrow or Saturday. We didn't want to run it long with the interference.
Then I'll do more adjusting of the computer and see where I end up. Once it seems to be running reliably, I'll try taking it around the block.
Sorry, no other pictures tonight - I'll check back once I get it further along.
Hawk
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Congrats Hawk. It used to be happy at about 850 in gear. I think it will need at least 15 degrees of initial advance.
Thanks. It seemed happy at around 20 degrees, but I still have a lot of tuning to go. There are a lot of computer tuning parameters that I have to fiddle with, such as the Idle Air Control (IAC) tuning, Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) calibration and so on. For example, we are still a degree off with the computer and actual timing. When the computer thinks it is 20 degrees the timing light says about 19.
So I need to get all this stuff settled, but first I need to deal with the valve covers. Yes, you warned me about potential interference
, and so we checked it twice and there seemed to be no issues when turning the engine by hand. However, we hear something under the breather - probably the baffle below the breather that is not providing enough clearance. Also, no immediate leaks seen, but I'm almost afraid to report that since I have run it so little. Leaks may yet turn up!
Hawk
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Yes I may have had more like 20 in it, I usually timed by total timing. Sounds like it is hitting in the same place. I also tried dimpling the baffle where there were witness marks from the adjusters.
OK. Let me try to link to the video I took last night. (I have not done any additional tuning today)
Gary P
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Ohh what sweet poetry!!
That sounds f'ing great! Congratulations on another successful startup.
Thanks guys, but a bit too soon to declare victory - still need some tuning and some luck to make sure I didn't screw anything up. That is ALWAYS possible!!!
One of the things I said in an earlier post was how qkcuda had warned me about clearance with the valve train and stock valve covers. Well I twice turned the engine around by hand (each time a full rotation) to listen/check for issues, and didn't hear any. Therefore, I assumed I was OK. Well, I was not - live and learn. See pictures below. Now remember, I have a really crappy, beat up set of 70 valve covers (I have been looking for new ones for quite some time) but you can clearly see the deep new marks left by the valvetrain. 4 on the one valve cover, 3 on the other (the previously bashed in part saved that valve). In all cases, the interference was with the baffle.
I put the PO's valve covers on (I actually think they look really nice - just not the "stock" look I was going for). I have decided I am done with my old beat up valve covers. I will buy a new set from AMD and modify them to fit as needed. This way, I can take my time doing this as a separate project without impacting my ability to drive around. (Note I still have the blue painter's tape on the coil wires in this picture so I can quickly remove and replace the wires.)
So then to tuning and running the car: I adjusted my timing to ensure that my timing light and my computer agreed on a reading of 20 degrees BTDC. This is then fixed and all other tuning (including base timing) is done through the computer. I set base to 20 degrees, all in timing to 40 degrees (this is similar to mechanical advance). I gave it 10 degrees of vacuum advance, set it to idle at 750 RPM, and adjusted IAC, TPC, etc.
I then took it out for it's maiden voyage on the streets. Good news is it seemed to run great, and my steering, brakes and all other items that I messed with seemed to work perfectly. No, I did not put my foot in it to try the power of the engine, although I wanted to! It feels really strong! I also have my new Passon A-855 5 speed. It seemed to work great too, but I need to break that in before I get too aggressive with my right foot.
My concern now is that the engine still seems "noisy". It sounds a bit like a solid lifter engine. I'm worried I may have impacted a few pushrods with the valve cover clearance issues. I am considering pulling a valve cover and checking one side of the engine's pushrods. Appreciate any advice or thoughts anyone has. I realize that the engine might be 100% fine - it is not my stock 383! However, I'd rather be careful just in case.
Thanks,
Hawk
I put the PO's valve covers on (I actually think they look really nice - just not the "stock" look I was going for). I have decided I am done with my old beat up valve covers. I will buy a new set from AMD and modify them to fit as needed. This way, I can take my time doing this as a separate project without impacting my ability to drive around. (Note I still have the blue painter's tape on the coil wires in this picture so I can quickly remove and replace the wires.)
So then to tuning and running the car: I adjusted my timing to ensure that my timing light and my computer agreed on a reading of 20 degrees BTDC. This is then fixed and all other tuning (including base timing) is done through the computer. I set base to 20 degrees, all in timing to 40 degrees (this is similar to mechanical advance). I gave it 10 degrees of vacuum advance, set it to idle at 750 RPM, and adjusted IAC, TPC, etc.
I then took it out for it's maiden voyage on the streets. Good news is it seemed to run great, and my steering, brakes and all other items that I messed with seemed to work perfectly. No, I did not put my foot in it to try the power of the engine, although I wanted to! It feels really strong! I also have my new Passon A-855 5 speed. It seemed to work great too, but I need to break that in before I get too aggressive with my right foot.
My concern now is that the engine still seems "noisy". It sounds a bit like a solid lifter engine. I'm worried I may have impacted a few pushrods with the valve cover clearance issues. I am considering pulling a valve cover and checking one side of the engine's pushrods. Appreciate any advice or thoughts anyone has. I realize that the engine might be 100% fine - it is not my stock 383! However, I'd rather be careful just in case.
Thanks,
Hawk
It looks to me like you just hit the baffle plates with the pushrod end of the rocker.
Why not just take a small hole saw and pop some holes where the witness marks are?
Seems like that would solve the problem.
It's possible you bent the pushrods but I doubt it.
Thanks for the update.
Why not just take a small hole saw and pop some holes where the witness marks are?
Seems like that would solve the problem.
It's possible you bent the pushrods but I doubt it.
Thanks for the update.
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Hawk, the valve train was always noisy since day one. Part of it is the lifters. Part of it is the Crane gold rockers. They always had a sewing machine sound at cruising speeds. I'm sure the pushrods are fine, they are heavy 3/8. You may want to adjust the rockers, it has been a while. The other thing you may be hearing is piston slap from the super short skirts.
Thanks Don. I had the exact same idea, but then just figured I wanted to spend time modifying a nice set of valve covers. These are 1970 valve covers, but they were rusty and really beat up when I got them. I figured they were better than nothing (and they were), but I really don't want to spend any more time with them since they are in such bad shape. I will get a new set and modify them.
Awesome - thanks! This makes me feel much better. I didn't think the marks looked too bad on my valve covers, but I have learned that sometimes looks can be deceiving!
I will put the rocker adjustment on my list of things to do. My father-in-law said they seemed fine, but he just did a quick "feel". He also checked out the pattern made on the cam and lifters and said everything there also looked really good. Having said that, it is always good to double-check.
Again, thanks for the confirmation. By the way, it feels really strong. I have already been quite tempted to try a bit of throttle, but want to behave myself to ensure my transmission is broken in properly. I need some patience!!!
Hawk
sound great, always exciting to get them breathing again.
Hawk, I'm curious about your timing - the 20 initial plus 20 mechanical. When is it all in? And no pinging at 40*? Most run at 34* - 36*; the cubes must like the additional timing.
Machmeter1
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Gratulation on your first successful ride. I have a video from the Barracuda still saved and compared it to yours, I agree there is a difference in sound and vibration, but I am sure you will defeat the devil in that electronic box and get it run more smoothly again.
Great job,
cheers Wolfgang
Great job,
cheers Wolfgang
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Hi Rich. At the moment, I have it all in at 2800 RPM. So yes, that would mean 40* at 2800 RPM. Even my old Road Runner seemed to like that, although I cannot yet say if this new engine does - I have only driven it around the block and haven't even gotten into it enough to fine tune any settings.
Hi Wolfgang. I need to upload a new video. the first one was literally a couple of minutes after it started for the first time. Since then, I have smoothed it out and it is tuned much better. I had to get the car and computer timing aligned, and also tune my IAC and TPC. There is still tuning to go, but it is already running quite nicely.
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