LemonWedge 470 build thread

[LemonWedge]

Had a good long conversation with the shop owner and the machinist running the crank lathe today. We went over all my parts and came to an understanding on what they could and couldn’t do. I think talking with me and coming to the realization that I understand a little bit about the process and me accepting that we don’t live in a perfect world made him feel better about things. He is willing now to measure the block and do his best to land as close to zero as possible.

To Dougs point, we would like to mock it up, but the thing that had him a little uptight is that with the combo of parts I’m bringing him, he can’t mock it up until the crank is cut. Once it’s cut, he can’t change it. That was his message to me. I assured him that even if it was a tiny bit above deck, I wasn’t going to come unglued. I promised him I wouldn’t buy head gaskets until he reported back with a number. Got home and realized that If I brought him one of the old rods, he could mock it up and maybe be more confident about just measuring the rod difference. We’ll see if he takes me up on that. 3-5 weeks away now.

I spent last night getting going on cleaning up the engine bay and removing some things not needed (wiper motor, windshield washer assbly). Going to try to cut a little more weight out of this thing before it goes back together. A little worried about hood clearance With the raised port Heads and Indy intake.

 

[Budnicks]

Hood clearance
nothing a nice era-correct Hemi scoop wouldn't fix
help with venting the heat & getting some cold fresh air in too
especially if you seal it (carb/intake) to the hood
so it's forced air
not sucking in ambient heat from the engine bay

 

[LemonWedge]

Hood clearance
nothing a nice era-correct Hemi scoop wouldn't fix
help with venting the heat & getting some cold fresh air in too
especially if you seal it (carb/intake) to the hood
so it's forced air
not sucking in ambient heat from the engine bay

I would love to do a nice fiberglass hood with a RO23 scoop, but have you seen what has happened with the prices of fiberglass lately? Most hoods have gone from +/- $500 to $750, and scoops have gone from $350 to $500. Once you pay shipping and add paint and prep work, a fiberglass hood assembly these days is going to set you back nearly $2k.
Unfortunately, that would be tough to swallow on the heels of an engine build that I’m already stretching for.

I have said that I wouldn’t cut my straight stock hood, but my ideas are changing with things like that. We’ll see…. Jumping one hurdle at a time.

 

[67MPRFAN]

After installing mine I wish I had went with the 1 with the taller front opening..

 

[biomedtechguy]

I sold my non-N96 hood when I got the AMD N96 version. Although I don't have everything for a fully functional Air Grabber, I would like to, and regardless of how well it works (or doesn't) I am making intake choices to do my best to keep it. I have an A12 air cleaner setup too.
My hope is I can switch to a K&N taller than factory oval air filter. I definitely believe that is a performance improvement, and I spend so much % of time driving off track, it's important.
If I ever need a different (taller) scoop, I would like the aftermarket slightly taller version of the 69½ "SIX BBL" scoop.
To me, especially street driving, any fresh air is better than the underhood hot air.

 

[Budnicks]

I would love to do a nice fiberglass hood with a RO23 scoop, but have you seen what has happened with the prices of fiberglass lately? Most hoods have gone from +/- $500 to $750, and scoops have gone from $350 to $500. Once you pay shipping and add paint and prep work, a fiberglass hood assembly these days is going to set you back nearly $2k.
Unfortunately, that would be tough to swallow on the heels of an engine build that I’m already stretching for.

I have said that I wouldn’t cut my straight stock hood, but my ideas are changing with things like that. We’ll see…. Jumping one hurdle at a time.

Oh I know all too well
I have an A12 6bbl lift-off hood
with all the correct BS, 4 posts & pins, the correct brackets
& correct lanyards etc. $2000+ & I did all the work
that comes with that BS
it ain't cheap, but I wanted that look too
let alone the 6bbl set up & manifold itself, $2500-$3500
much of that before you do anything to it,
metering blocks & jet-plates, flowing (or porting), gaskets, valley pan
springs, brackets, thl cable, linkages, new fuel system,
the plumbing, special fittings, bypass reg. & lines, S/S elec. pump,
new fuel system/tank/sending unit/straps & then all the AN ****,
hoses, tubing, fresh air/air cleaner base, 1 " phenolic spacers
& a 3" K&N filter
& can't forget the stickers

yeah I can relate

I didn't need to change the hood, I didn't need a 6bbl either
I could have gone with the stock RR Hood
& a 2" filter, (with the 6bbl) or a 4bbl/dominator...
cookie cutter stuff
but that's not what I wanted
& the fresh air 'really helped the underhood heat, get fresh air to the carbs'
I actually had to fatten it up a few jet sizes, just to compensate
for more fresh cool air

so it wasn't just for looks

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

@LemonWedge

or just cut a hole in the hood & install a RO23
or something similar S/S era correct type 'scoop'
or steel (fabricated)
or fiberglass reproductions,
keep the stock steel hood, hinged etc.
maybe remove the latch to save a lil' weight (or leave it)
& install safety pins, if you're worried about it flying open

unless;
you're sentimentally attached to the org. HOOD
& it's org. shape/condition
I understand that too

I do like the path you're going down
sometimes you need to just cut **** to make it work/fit,
for a drag car

the car is way, away from stock now anyway
but good luck, whatever you decide
have fun with it, that's what it's all about
enjoying the car, even if you need to cut on it

 

[LemonWedge]

While we’re waiting on machine work, I’ll ask about some details: Engine color.

In the past I’ve always stuck with the stock 383 Turquoise and dressed it up like the 383 the car was born with. But since I’m clearly crossing into a real racecar performange range, I’m thinking of maybe going to Hemi Orange on this bullet. What do you guys think?

 

[Tex013]

While we’re waiting on machine work, I’ll ask about some details: Engine color.

In the past I’ve always stuck with the stock 383 Turquoise and dressed it up like the 383 the car was born with. But since I’m clearly crossing into a real racecar performange range, I’m thinking of maybe going to Hemi Orange on this bullet. What do you guys think?

both my 440 & 505 are chevy orange . cheap and cheerful , easy to see any oil

Tex

 

[biomedtechguy]

both my 440 & 505 are chevy orange . cheap and cheerful , easy to see any oil

Tex

Nice appearance and functional.
Great combination!

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

I really like the look of the eastwood hemi orange. A little prep work and shoot it with a spray gun and it looks awesome. Motor in the roadrunner still looks great after 6 years.

 

[malex]

I would love to do a nice fiberglass hood with a RO23 scoop, but have you seen what has happened with the prices of fiberglass lately? Most hoods have gone from +/- $500 to $750, and scoops have gone from $350 to $500. Once you pay shipping and add paint and prep work, a fiberglass hood assembly these days is going to set you back nearly $2k.
Unfortunately, that would be tough to swallow on the heels of an engine build that I’m already stretching for.

I have said that I wouldn’t cut my straight stock hood, but my ideas are changing with things like that. We’ll see…. Jumping one hurdle at a time.

—- Hey LW perhaps you’ll come upon another stock hood that you can cut into and add a scoop to. I initially had installed my scoop on the stock hood and no pins. The inner structure that the latch mounts to tore and pulled away. Bent enough that I could slide my hand through. I fixed it up and my steel hood now has hood pins.

 

[LemonWedge]

—- Hey LW perhaps you’ll come upon another stock hood that you can cut into and add a scoop to. I initially had installed my scoop on the stock hood and no pins. The inner structure that the latch mounts to tore and pulled away. Bent enough that I could slide my hand through. I fixed it up and my steel hood now has hood pins.beginning to abandon the idea that this car is too nice to cut.

I‘m beginning to abandon the idea the this car is “too nice to cut”. I did the mini-tubs, and found that I have ZERO regret about that. So a nice RO23 scoop on a steel hood would seem to go hand-in-hand. Especially if it were with a good air box sealed to the hood, would probably be something I would enjoy. That’s what it’s all about, isn’t it…. Enjoying these things?

 

[Runcharger]

True: The no scoop Satellite sleeper thing is over the top cool though.

 

[Fran Blacker]

I‘m beginning to abandon the idea the this car is “too nice to cut”. I did the mini-tubs, and found that I have ZERO regret about that. So a nice RO23 scoop on a steel hood would seem to go hand-in-hand. Especially if it were with a good air box sealed to the hood, would probably be something I would enjoy. That’s what it’s all about, isn’t it…. Enjoying these things?

Why not a glass hood that you can use hinges with weak springs and save weight. Maybe a lift off, minus part 2 people to put on or off.

 

[LemonWedge]

Why not a glass hood that you can use hinges with weak springs and save weight. Maybe a lift off, minus part 2 people to put on or off.

From earlier in the thread…..

I would love to do a nice fiberglass hood with a RO23 scoop, but have you seen what has happened with the prices of fiberglass lately? Most hoods have gone from +/- $500 to $750, and scoops have gone from $350 to $500. Once you pay shipping and add paint and prep work, a fiberglass hood assembly these days is going to set you back nearly $2k.

Unfortunately, that would be tough to swallow on the heels of an engine build that I’m already stretching for.

I have said that I wouldn’t cut my straight stock hood, but my ideas are changing with things like that. We’ll see…. Jumping one hurdle at a time.

 

[Hemirunner]

I went that route then went fiberglass hood later. Might as well buy once cry once lol

 

[dvw]

If I was using hinges I'd keep the steel hood. Not enough weight savings to justify the cost and work.
Doug

 

[stage3]

fiberglass hoods r the way to go,,mine is setup using the stock hinges all pinned on. held up by a prop rod when just checking things out and removed in 30 seconds by myself and reinstalled in the same amount of time Without having to reset the hinges.....Stinger fiberglass makes the best units.

 

[LemonWedge]

If I was using hinges I'd keep the steel hood. Not enough weight savings to justify the cost and work.
Doug

is your hood a pin on glass unit, Doug?

 

[dvw]

Pin on homemade Carbon Fiber. Not as light as the custom made stuff. Hood and scoop weigh 19lbs total. Stock 64 steel hood is 58lbs. Hinges are 11lbs. I had a glass hood. The hood was 21lbs before paint. Glass scoop was a very heavy 16lbs. Gutting the doors, no regulators, 1/8 Lexan n the doors, rear side, and back saved 88lbs. It still has the OE windshield. Way cheaper than a hood. With a hardtop I'd use thicker material for the doors. Steering shaft and strut rods are .090" Moly tubing. Chop up the K frame. Use Light bumper brackets. I weighed a few weekends ago. with 5 gallons of fuel car is 3115. With me, suit, and helmet 3320 with no ballast. If we pull the pass seat (its light 21lbs) and run with low fuel it'll cut another 40lbs.
Doug