747mopar
Well-Known Member
That sucks but at least you got it home safely even if on a cob jobbed belt haha "good thinking". It's never fun to have issues in the morning especially when you have to get to work.
That sucks but at least you got it home safely even if on a cob jobbed belt haha "good thinking". It's never fun to have issues in the morning especially when you have to get to work.
Conv 67 I spent the last 2 mornings with my breakfast going through your thread from start to finish! Great build so far and love both cars you've managed to get some work in on!
Look forward to following this one all the way through!!
Look at it as a good thing (replacing the quarter) I found things I would never had known about because I removed mine "it's a good thing in a way". I wouldn't let them touch but should be able to fit them tight "I think mine is about 1/2". What kind of quarter are available for the 67's?????
Your going to have a sweet ride there when your finished, You might have saved some money ordering both quarters but sometimes we have to do it the hard way i guess, money is tight anymore but time will see it thru! Good luck and have fun!
- how close to the quarter panel can this replaced metal get ?
- can the two of them be touching ? ( or is that a bad idea ? )
Don't feel too bad, those look like the typical spots even for non convertibles. I kept finding things like that throughout my process too, it will pop up in places you never figured you'd have to do work. Though your car started out a whole lot cleaner than mine did so with any luck you will be able to get away with much less.
I did EXACTLY what you did though. Dreams of grandeur thinking I could save the drivers side rear quarter...in the end after tearing things apart and cutting out the bad spots I found that the rust in that side was worse than the other even though it looked cleaner from the outside. Something to check: look in through the inner body below the rear windows at the quarter panel and see if the body is rusting. I found spots where water from the window had rusted the body through from the inside out....
Either way when you get done you will be happy knowing there is no rust there to show back up later.
Oh and on shipping....Amazon seems to be terrible with that, I am STILL waiting on a distributor I ordered January 2nd. Though I think it will finally show up today.
Would shipping be cheaper buying directly from Nor/Am Auto Body Parts? They do have thier own web store:
http://www.noramstore.com/
I don't see why 16 gauge wouldn't work. Just a little more weight. Not quite as easy to manipulate or cut as the 18 Gauge that was used. If it was the other way around and it was more thin, then you would have an issue. Not quite sure what/where you're referring to with these two questions:
Thanks for the update KB and the information - Good to know that I've got the rust in the same spots, so it makes me feel better that I'm going the correct route with replacing the rear passenger side quarter panel too. Still very nervous about welding in the new panel, but I'm going forward with the wisdom that you gave me - I can't make it any worse than it already is ! !
So - cut out the bad, double check what's behind it and hidden, and put it fresh new stuff so I don't have to worry down the road.
Thanks KB !
- - - Updated - - -
Hey Propwash - those two questions refer to the inner wheel well and the quarter panel - the quarter panel has some interesting curves, and I'm trying to figure out how to run the metal up the inside of the quarter panel but still have it touching at the wheel well lip so it can be welded in place. Hope that make a little more sense . . .
I messed up and ordered a sheet of 16 guage instead of 18 guage - might use it just for the outer wheel tubs . . . I'm thinking it through . . . thanks for the information.
Direct from the website - the panel is $110 and the shipping is $108 for a total of $218
From amazon prime - the panel was $140 and free shipping - for a total of $140
Shocked the heck out of me ! ! ! ( smile )