New Family Member - 69 GTX - Electronic Ignition Box

[68Charger440HP]

I picked up this GTX a few weeks ago so my Charger would have some company! It's a numbers matching 440, 4 speed Dana car.

I'm going to be converting the points ignition to an electronic ignition so I wanted to ask for suggestions on where to mount the orange control box. Where have you guys mounted them? I'd prefer not to have to drill any hole in the car.

Thanks!

 

[Runcharger]

A lot of guys put then under the battery tray. On my 66 Coronet I made a little plate that mounted it behind the grille so it would be in cool air blowing in, sitting it probably heat sank from the radiator though. I have thought about putting them in the wheelhouse as well just to keep them cooler.

 

[Don Frelier]

You might want to consider a "Ready to Run" distributor.
No box required.

 

[Bee1971]

If I was doing it today , I would buy or make the adapter plate that mounts on the valley pan behind the intake manifold

Simple , out of sight , and heat is not an issue

Or like mentioned under the battery tray , with of course a little work on extending the wiring harness

 

[Don Frelier]

Pertronix is another option

 

[Jerry Hall]

Why get rid of the points? In my points cars are a spare set of points, ballast resistor, a few tools and a couple of other things. I can install points if necessary in less time than changing a tire.

Points in all of the above. I have had more trouble with electronic ignition than points and points usually give you a warning. Just my opinion.

 

[Ranger16]

Where have you guys mounted them? I'd prefer not to have to drill any hole in the car.

If you don't drill a mounting hole, how do you plan to ground it?

 

[Turboomni]

I'm going to be converting the points ignition to an electronic ignition so

Why?? Always interested on the reason.

 

[1968rt]

Behind the manifold on the valley pan hold downs. They sell a bracket.

 

[70runner]

Why get rid of the points? In my points cars are a spare set of points, ballast resistor, a few tools and a couple of other things. I can install points if necessary in less time than changing a tire.

Gotta agree. Daughter's all matching 69 Charger R/T started out with a fancy all-in-one rig, installed by the engine builder. Lasted about 200mi until the AIO stranded her on a freeway. After a week or so of unproductive troubleshooting with the company tech guy, pulled it and reinstalled the points distributor/stock coil/ballast. Started right up and runs perfect.

 

[68Charger440HP]

Why?? Always interested on the reason.

I’ve got nothing against points distributors. The distributor in the car right now is an old Mallory unit and don’t care for the look of it. I had a spare Mopar Performance electronic distributor so I figured I’d change it out.

 

[68BabyBlue]

I picked up this GTX a few weeks ago so my Charger would have some company! It's a numbers matching 440, 4 speed Dana car.

I'm going to be converting the points ignition to an electronic ignition so I wanted to ask for suggestions on where to mount the orange control box. Where have you guys mounted them? I'd prefer not to have to drill any hole in the car.

Thanks!

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We have twins, maybe, what is your interior color?

 

[68Charger440HP]

We have twins, maybe, what is your interior color?

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Very nice looking GTX! Red interior on mine.

 

[68BabyBlue]

What are the odds - I have only ever seen one other R6 numbers matching track pak '69 GTX, in my life, and that was on the internet, a car in Washington state that showed up in Hemmings a month after I bought the one I have now. That car also had a pewter interior like mine, supposedly only 45 built red with pewter. I spent 45 years hunting a red numbers matching 4 speed '69. I think you won the lottery! Gorgeous car!

 

[69 R/T]

I went with the Pertronix Ignitor II. However, I used a stealth method of installation. The Pertronix requires a constant 12v to run, therefore you can't run both distributor leads to the coil unless you use my stealth method. Remove the ballast resistor and solder a heavy gauge jumper lead between the two terminals on the back side. This will now carry a constant 12v, and when bolted back on the firewall, no one can tell. This will allow you to run the two leads directly to the coil to keep the wiring as stock and sanitary looking as possible. My car is a bone stock, numbers car too, so stock appearing with date coded parts is my thing...I totally understand your concern.

 

[joemish]

I picked up this GTX a few weeks ago so my Charger would have some company! It's a numbers matching 440, 4 speed Dana car.

I'm going to be converting the points ignition to an electronic ignition so I wanted to ask for suggestions on where to mount the orange control box. Where have you guys mounted them? I'd prefer not to have to drill any hole in the car.

Thanks!

View attachment 1064195 View attachment 1064196

Put it on the firewall where it belongs. I put mine there looks original.

 

[joemish]

I went with the Pertronix Ignitor II. However, I used a stealth method of installation. The Pertronix requires a constant 12v to run, therefore you can't run both distributor leads to the coil unless you use my stealth method. Remove the ballast resistor and solder a heavy gauge jumper lead between the two terminals on the back side. This will now carry a constant 12v, and when bolted back on the firewall, no one can tell. This will allow you to run the two leads directly to the coil to keep the wiring as stock and sanitary looking as possible. My car is a bone stock, numbers car too, so stock appearing with date coded parts is my thing...I totally understand your concern.

Or you can just use a double ballast resistor that is recommended and i put it on both my cars. have to buy the double ballast resister separate does not come with a kit.

 

[Gary Gaz]

There is a guy either here on B bodies or on a mopar FB site that makes a bracket that mounts the module onto the 2 bolt threads from the heater/fan box. looks nice n tidy

 

[boys3rt]

I mounted my box behind the grille passenger side on the radiator support. You do not need to drill any holes ! I did use a special bracket that was on newer cars that was bent in a way to stand off the box away from the mounting surface. For the wiring there is a small void where the support meets the fender that you can string the wires thru it and incorporate in the harness that feeds the washer bottle and horns. That harness runs along the inner fender and turns at the firewall. As stated earlier you need a good ground and there is one on the radiator support that you can add your ground from the control unit. In this case there is no heat impact from the motor or exhaust. Hope this helps! Should you have more questions let me know.