No fuel to carb

[Lionized]

So take a phillips screw driver and put it on the screw in the carb and lightly tap it with a hammer

No. Do not use a hammer. Use the handle of a screwdriver and tap it, around the float bowls and body of carburetor.
Personally, I would take it off and rebuild it.

 

[miller]

Personally, I would take it off and rebuild it.

Or toss it in the trash! Aw hell Holley guys...just kiddin'.
Don't recall off hand, but there could be some kind of filter, just inside the carb inlet port, that could be clogged. But, a handful of things can cause problems. How 'black' is the inside of the carb? Or, from sitting, varnish could have formed from the gas drying out, making parts stick.
Don't matter though, if your looking for another carb.

 

['73bird]

Or toss it in the trash! Aw hell Holley guys...just kiddin'.
Don't recall off hand, but there could be some kind of filter, just inside the carb inlet port, that could be clogged. But, a handful of things can cause problems. How 'black' is the inside of the carb? Or, from sitting, varnish could have formed from the gas drying out, making parts stick.
Don't matter though, if your looking for another carb.

Id rather have a thermoquad but cant afford one atm.

 

[SlinktRR]

Put a fuel filter in line before the carb so junk from your gas tank or pieces of rubber line doesnt get into the needle and seats. Also a good idea to put a coarse fuel filter at the outlet of the gas tank. I use a 125um filter (Napa) at the tank and a 20um filter at the carb. It will take much longer for the 20um filter to clog this way.

Before rebuilding the carb I would pour gas down the throat of it or spray it with ether and start it. Maybe just getting some RPM's will get the fuel flowing properly from that pump. Could also put a fuel pressure gauge on the outlet of the pump, it should put out at least 4-5 psi. If it keeps dying and the bowls are dry even after running at idle RPM for a bit, and you confirmed that the pump is building pressure, then it's time to take the carb off and change needles, seats, clean.

I gave up on carter pumps after my 2nd one died. I am a fan of the quickfuel mechanical these days.

 

['73bird]

Put a fuel filter in line before the carb so junk from your gas tank or pieces of rubber line doesnt get into the needle and seats. Also a good idea to put a coarse fuel filter at the outlet of the gas tank. I use a 125um filter (Napa) at the tank and a 20um filter at the carb. It will take much longer for the 20um filter to clog this way.

Before rebuilding the carb I would pour gas down the throat of it or spray it with ether and start it. Maybe just getting some RPM's will get the fuel flowing properly from that pump. Could also put a fuel pressure gauge on the outlet of the pump, it should put out at least 4-5 psi. If it keeps dying and the bowls are dry even after running at idle RPM for a bit, and you confirmed that the pump is building pressure, then it's time to take the carb off and change needles, seats, clean.

I gave up on carter pumps after my 2nd one died. I am a fan of the quickfuel mechanical these days.

The fuel pump is pumping fuel as I stuck one end in a gas can and the other in a bottle and fuel filled the bottle after I turned the car over. Its the carb as there is fuel after my filter to the line out the carb.

 

[miller]

Might try breaking the inlet fitting at the carb loose, and look to see if there is a filter, or screen in there, that could be clogged.
Again, not much on Holleys, but some have fuel level plugs on the bowls. If your's have it, pull it, to see if there's any gas in there.
Bet that thing is gummed up.

 

['73bird]

Thanks

 

['73bird]

So i have bought a 4160 carb. Should it use a open style gasket/spacer or the one with the 4 holes? It will be on a factory 73 440 motorhome manifold.

 

[khryslerkid]

Match the hole or holes in the intake. Four hole intake, four hole gasket. Open hole manifold, open hole gasket.

 

['73bird]

Match the hole or holes in the intake. Four hole intake, four hole gasket. Open hole manifold, open hole gasket.

K ty

 

['73bird]

This is a 4 hole manifold correct

 

[miller]

No, sir. A 4-hole manifold would actually have four separate holes.
I have never seen one like that before...primary and secondary cut together...maybe each side fuels each bank on the motor? Not even sure what carb fits that.
Maybe one of the other guys will chime in for you on that. Might be looking at needing to use an adapter plate (to match up with the carb you want to use).

 

[Jcharger]

You have a dual plain intake for a spread bore carburetor.

I apologize if you know this already.

• Square bore is all venturis the same or approximately the same size (which the 4160 will be) and spread bore have much larger secondaries.
• Intakes in the images at are 4 hole and 2 hole, or open. Take a look at http://www.440source.com/intakes.htm (your intake probably classifies as 2 hole) There are also open (which are on single plane intakes)
• Adapter plates can swap between spread bore and square bore carburetors and manifolds. You can also swap manifolds. 2 hole are more common on dual plane manifolds and 4 hole on single plane.
• Carburetor spacers. Using an open spacer connects all 4 barrels and allows all cylinders to draw on all four at high speed which can increase top end. Using a 4 hole (or 2 hole spacer) keeps them separate and increases the pull on the barrels which causes them to operate more efficiently at mid range. Spacers can also be made of insulating material (phenolic or wood) which help keep heat from the carburetor.

At a minimum, I think you need an adapter plate to match the 4160 to that manifold. I think I have seen them at the local advance auto so you probably can find quickly. That is a cheap solution and would allow you to continue your tests. In the longer term, you may want to replace the manifold, but I would think about getting all in order before doing that. If it were me, I would also want to make sure that the manifold (with EGR) was not a source of vacuum leaks or other problems. Make sure the plate doesn't lift the carburetor too high so there are clearance issues with the hood. It would stink to slam the hood down on the air cleaner or carburetor air cleaner stud.

Can I get some clarification on the situation. The 4412 you replaces was a 2 barrel, right??? If so I assume it was on a different manifold. The 4160 you just bought is what cfm? And is it new or used? I am asking because eventually you will probably want to adjust it and possibly the Jets. If it is new, my guess is you will be fine on jets to start, if used, you will want to check the jets to make sure it will not run too lean.

 

['73bird]

You have a dual plain intake for a spread bore carburetor.

I apologize if you know this already.

• Square bore is all venturis the same or approximately the same size (which the 4160 will be) and spread bore have much larger secondaries.
• Intakes in the images at are 4 hole and 2 hole, or open. Take a look at http://www.440source.com/intakes.htm (your intake probably classifies as 2 hole) There are also open (which are on single plane intakes)
• Adapter plates can swap between spread bore and square bore carburetors and manifolds. You can also swap manifolds. 2 hole are more common on dual plane manifolds and 4 hole on single plane.
• Carburetor spacers. Using an open spacer connects all 4 barrels and allows all cylinders to draw on all four at high speed which can increase top end. Using a 4 hole (or 2 hole spacer) keeps them separate and increases the pull on the barrels which causes them to operate more efficiently at mid range. Spacers can also be made of insulating material (phenolic or wood) which help keep heat from the carburetor.

At a minimum, I think you need an adapter plate to match the 4160 to that manifold. I think I have seen them at the local advance auto so you probably can find quickly. That is a cheap solution and would allow you to continue your tests. In the longer term, you may want to replace the manifold, but I would think about getting all in order before doing that. If it were me, I would also want to make sure that the manifold (with EGR) was not a source of vacuum leaks or other problems. Make sure the plate doesn't lift the carburetor too high so there are clearance issues with the hood. It would stink to slam the hood down on the air cleaner or carburetor air cleaner stud.

Can I get some clarification on the situation. The 4412 you replaces was a 2 barrel, right??? If so I assume it was on a different manifold. The 4160 you just bought is what cfm? And is it new or used? I am asking because eventually you will probably want to adjust it and possibly the Jets. If it is new, my guess is you will be fine on jets to start, if used, you will want to check the jets to make sure it will not run too lean.

No the 4412 was sitting on the same manifold (will sell adapter plate if someone is interested but thats another thread). The 4160 is a used carb from a 1972 440. I will most likely be changing the manifold when the motor is rebuilt prior to going into the roadrunner.

 

[Jcharger]

Thanks, If the Holley works for your purpose and is jetted as it was, then you have what you need until the rebuild. My guess is that an adapter will be needed to mate the carburetor to the manifold, but you can check that visually too.

 

['73bird]

Thanks, If the Holley works for your purpose and is jetted as it was, then you have what you need until the rebuild. My guess is that an adapter will be needed to mate the carburetor to the manifold, but you can check that visually too.

The holley is just to get it running. The ultimate goal is to get a carter thermoquad. I got a good deal on the holley

 

['73bird]

Put the carb i bought on and the satellite craked over, idled, drove down the driveway, idled some more, then backfired, and died. Then was smoking

 

[miller]

Then was smoking

What on the motor was smoking?

 

['73bird]

What on the motor was smoking?

Passenger side of the motor near either the valve cover or the exhaust manifold. It doesn't have an oil breather cap. Does that have anything to do with it? Someone stuck what looks like a rubber grommet stopper in the valve cover. That is also the area it was smoking from in the picture

 

[miller]

Should be a PVC valve where the 'stopper' is. So, probably considering the condition the motor is in (lot of miles), yeah, most likely going to smoke some.
Oil breather cap, where you put oil in, should be on driver side valve cover.