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Overheats on the freeway but not when cruising around town?

Well maybe my memory is fading, don't think so, I know the hose swapped sides in 73, clearly you can see the timing marks on the 78 engine posted above.... I remember lots of 76-77-78 cars with mag (magnetic) timing.. I'll shut up & go home now...
Does anyone know why if the water pump housing switch sides in '73, why it is so hard to find new aftermarket passenger side water pump housings? Fortunately there are used ones out there.
 
That looks like my water pump housing setup. What is your alternator belt connected to the upper right of it - that large black component? Is that the air conditioner? I don't have A/C and thing my alternator belt connects to my power steering pulley. Nice engine. Thanks for posting.
Yes. A/C compressor up top. They also used an idler pulley lower right to add another belt to run the water pump on the truck 440.
 
Yes. A/C compressor up top. They also used an idler pulley lower right to add another belt to run the water pump on the truck 440.
That looks like a van and RV setup with the P/S pump mounted up high like that. No trucks that I know of had that arrangement with the second idler pulley where the P/S pump usually sits.

There is no demand for cast iron reproduction water pump housings. Aluminum ones are available from several sources.
I have several iron WP housings both LH and RH.
 
I did use a new GMB pump when I built this engine. I reused it when I changed the radiator.
I don't claim to know everything but it seems that the concept of slowing the coolant flow so it stays in the radiator longer also allows the coolant to stay in the engine longer, generating even MORE heat.
I have a Flowkooler in the red car because I have A/C and wanted the best. For Jigsaw, I figured that a standard pump would be adequate. It probably was. I saw no obvious flaws in the thermostat, water pump, fan or the radiator. The radiator is 23 years old and spent 18 years in Ginger, the red car. I never overheated out on the road with it. Both cars received new radiators simply for the ability to use stock shrouds and hoses.

KD, did you select a water pump yet? That plate shown on the 6-blade pump is an anti-cavitation plate to minimize bubble formation and bubble formation is bad for cooling. One with a plate is best. The number of fins that is ideal depends on the water pump pulley diameter. In general, I've found the higher the fin count (with cavitation plate in place), the faster the coolant flow. I had an overheating issue on my 451 with all new parts and tracked it down to the speed of coolant flow. I went from a brand new 6-blade pump to a higher fin count brand new Flowkooler pump and the problem went away.

However, now that I'm about to install A/C which requires downsizing the water pump pulley , there's a chance that this new pump will move the water a bit TOO fast. I plan to test this and run that new setup with the high fin count pump. If the overheating returns, I'll swap back in the 6-blade pump and it should be good.

I spoke at length with the tech guys at Flowkooler about this. There's an old theory that big blocks or A/C cars got the lower fin count 6 blade pump to slow down the coolant and keep it in the rad longer for better cooling. This is not always true. It depends on what your motor needs and is highly dependent on the water pump pulley diameter.

Also, I know that you collect a lot of used parts and re-use them a lot. Water pumps are one thing that do wear out and need replacing. I would install a new pump if I were you. When my dad and I had the '67 Chevy 327, in the 43 years we owned it, we had to replace the water pump about 4 times. The bearings wear out. One way to test this is to carefully hold a metal rod (we used a tire iron) and place one end against the water pump housing and the other end to your ear with the motor running. A good pump will make a nice smooth whirring sound. You can hear the difference with a bad pump.
Interesting concepts. I am a chemical engineer and studies heat transfer and even had to design a heat exchanger in college, but I also don't claim to know everything (and don't do this in my day job) and by no means have I tested water flow vs. heat transfer efficiency in cars. But knowing what I know about fluid flow and heat transfer, Kern Dog and Flowkooler can both be right. The generic theoretical heat transfer equation is Q = massflowrate X heat capacity X delta T). Heat transfer throught a heat exchanger is Q = U X A X delta T log (or Q = heat transfer coeffiecient of the exchanger X Area X log mean difference). And you need to calculate Reynolds, Nessult, and Prandtl number to calculate laminar / turbulent flows and calculation coefficients for the flow path. And Heat transfer of water flow calculations involve many calculations for real life applications where one has to take into account friction factors, heat transfer coefficients, fluid viscosity, laminar/turbulent flow path diameters and changes (hoses, radiator tubes (# rows/size), radiator capacity, air con, potential water pump cavitation, equipment damage/forces, driving speeds (racing or everyday), fan/shroud design and speed, etc. There are pump curves that optimize efficiency at various sizes and flow rates. IMO, at the end of the day, it depends on the size and design of each system to determine what is ideal flow for each system. Flow is too low when flow is laminar, but excessive flow beyond respectable turbulence can cause wasted energy and excessive friction that can cause short-and longterm pump caviatation (fluid vaporization which is not good for water flow) and other equipment damage. There are diminishing returns when flow reaches a certain point in a car system. This sounds obvious, but I would bet that prior Chrysler engineers and current Flowkooler engineers have run successful studies across various - typical applications so Flowcooler's pumps probably will be okay across the average Mopar setups - I would call them and ask what makes their pump special or maybe its on their webiste already. I don't think it as simple to says more or less flow, especially in far extremes, is better than one or the other for everyone's car and driving habits and use. There are probably a lot of conflicting opinons on this and I am all ears. I would need to see test data (with various main equipment and sizes) to form more definitive conclusions.
 
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That looks like a van and RV setup with the P/S pump mounted up high like that. No trucks that I know of had that arrangement with the second idler pulley where the P/S pump usually sits.

There is no demand for cast iron reproduction water pump housings. Aluminum ones are available from several sources.
I have several iron WP housings both LH and RH.
That setup is what Dodge put on my truck in 1978. I ordered it in November of 77 because I knew the 440 was going away. Pretty sure the RV's got it also. There were only 74 D150 trucks built in 78 that got the 440. Probably why you never saw one.
 
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That setup is what Dodge put on my truck in 1978. I ordered it in November of 77 because I knew the 440 was going away. Pretty sure the RV's got it also. There were only 74 trucks built in 78 that got the 440. Probably why you never saw one.
I have a 75 Power Wagon, 440 4 speed that had A/C. It didn't have that idler. They may have made changes after the '75 model year.
 
I have a 75 Power Wagon, 440 4 speed that had A/C. It didn't have that idler. They may have made changes after the '75 model year.
I had two of the 78 D150 SE trucks with the 440. One was shipped to CA and had all the smog junk on it where mine did not. Both had the 4 groove crank pulley and the idler. They also got a 28" radiator that was upgraded for 78. I just checked my parts book. It shows both 400 & 440 A, D & W trucks with Power Steering and A/C got the 4 groove and idler. Not sure about 77.
 
When I replaced my thermostat, I replaced it with a high performance Mr. Gasket thermostat. It was $27 instead of $10, but it is supposed to control the flow better. I was paranoid and didn't want to spare any expense. I really didn't like being on the side of the road with the car overheating again.
 
I've been waiting for the weather to warm up so I can test the changes that I made.
I don't mind the delay though. 100 degree days will be here next week. After the changes, I've let it run and drive around the yard. It reached 170+ and stayed there. That does not matter as much because it never overheated under extended idling or low speed driving anyway,
 
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I had two of the 78 D150 SE trucks with the 440. One was shipped to CA and had all the smog junk on it where mine did not. Both had the 4 groove crank pulley and the idler. They also got a 28" radiator that was upgraded for 78. I just checked my parts book. It shows both 400 & 440 A, D & W trucks with Power Steering and A/C got the 4 groove and idler. Not sure about 77.
My 77 SE truck with the 440 had ac and I’m pretty sure it had an idler. Doubt I have a pic of that, but will look.
 
Interesting concepts. I am a chemical engineer and studies heat transfer and even had to design a heat exchanger in college, but I also don't claim to know everything (and don't do this in my day job) and by no means have I tested water flow vs. heat transfer efficiency in cars. But knowing what I know about fluid flow and heat transfer, Kern Dog and Flowkooler can both be right. The generic theoretical heat transfer equation is Q = massflowrate X heat capacity X delta T). Heat transfer throught a heat exchanger is Q = U X A X delta T log (or Q = heat transfer coeffiecient of the exchanger X Area X log mean difference). And you need to calculate Reynolds, Nessult, and Prandtl number to calculate laminar / turbulent flows and calculation coefficients for the flow path. And Heat transfer of water flow calculations involve many calculations for real life applications where one has to take into account friction factors, heat transfer coefficients, fluid viscosity, laminar/turbulent flow path diameters and changes (hoses, radiator tubes (# rows/size), radiator capacity, air con, potential water pump cavitation, equipment damage/forces, driving speeds (racing or everyday), fan/shroud design and speed, etc. There are pump curves that optimize efficiency at various sizes and flow rates. IMO, at the end of the day, it depends on the size and design of each system to determine what is ideal flow for each system. Flow is too low when flow is laminar, but excessive flow beyond respectable turbulence can cause wasted energy and excessive friction that can cause short-and longterm pump caviatation (fluid vaporization which is not good for water flow) and other equipment damage. There are diminishing returns when flow reaches a certain point in a car system. This sounds obvious, but I would bet that prior Chrysler engineers and current Flowkooler engineers have run successful studies across various - typical applications so Flowcooler's pumps probably will be okay across the average Mopar setups - I would call them and ask what makes their pump special or maybe its on their webiste already. I don't think it as simple to says more or less flow, especially in far extremes, is better than one or the other for everyone's car and driving habits and use. There are probably a lot of conflicting opinons on this and I am all ears. I would need to see test data (with various main equipment and sizes) to form more definitive conclusions.
OUTSTANDING DISSERTATION and explanation.....as I use to design high temperature gas to gas heat exchangers, as used in heat recovery equipment. There are probably 4 or 5 people on this fotum that understand what you noted.....the rest of the "experts" subscribe to the "my buddy's said rule" or a fundamental lack of knowledge of thermodynamics. BTW....I use to design to 40-50 ft/sec velocity but the gas density was dependent on composition (sometimes CH4 or C3H8 or SO2 or "refinery gas" coming off of the catalytic cracking tower) and gas temperatures (waste gas temps of 2200° F preheating to 1700° F-1850°F) across Inconel 800HT tubes @ 125 PSI (ASME Class VIII, Div 1 Code stamped unfired pressure vessels)......and I've noted about water pump curves, RPMs, specific heat of the coolant......but was always "poo - pood" by the uneducated who know nothing about fluid dynamics, as noted in the bible: Crane's Flow of Fluids ..... but believe in what their next door's neighbor's cousin's sister's husband's best buddy says......as gospel......perhaps we can educate the non-believers......anyway....thanks for your input.....
BOB RENTON
 
I haven't seen a cross-flow like that before.

The water gets cooled by trickling down through the fine tubes.....that cross-flow will just allow the hot water to sit towards the top of the tanks on the side.

Is Ginger the same radiator - or is it a standard vertical fin flow?
Not necessarily.....since the system operates under pressure, the differential pressure, from the inlet (hot side coming from the engine) of the heat exchanger to the cold side of the heat exchanger (returning to the engine or water pump inlet) and because the tubes are in parallel flow, flow will divide equally thru the available tubes. Usually, X-flow designs present more surface area for heat transfer; remember, its the WWW between the tubes that provide the surface area of the heat exchanger.....more tubes + more WWW = more surface area = better efficiency......
BOB RENTON
 
Bigger tubes provide better cooling, not more.
 
I'll use real anti-freeze
The coolest running liquid is water + water wetter, but you can't use that if it freezes where you are, and it has no corrosion prevention.
I run 50/50 water and antifreeze w/Water Wetter. ALWAYS I run water wetter.
 
bart eating popcorn.gif
 
Which radiator would you rather use. Maybe I should start a poll....? I'll pick the one on the left each and every time.

Copp_V_Alu..JPG
 
Which radiator would you rather use. Maybe I should start a poll....? I'll pick the one on the left each and every time.

View attachment 1491766
WHY....the correct question is: which radiator has more surface area and which radiator has more fins / Inch (WWW folds) on the air side?? Answer....the one with more surface area....show us the air side fins/inch..
You only give us some of the information needed....how many tubes, their dimensions (length x width x thickness) vs same thing for the other example.
Opinions are useless without comparisons...like apples vs oranges...maybe your example is better BUT without additional information to compare the two radiators the argument is moot.....it's like stating: How high is up?
BOB RENTON
 
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This “debate” over tube size and fin count is the same debate about which dog will win, the big dog or the small dog? The big will ALWAYS win and the radiator with the bigger tubes and more fin count will ALWAYS cool better, ALWAYS! A brass/copper radiator is great, but copper isn’t made to tubes the size of the aluminum, for some reason, I’ve read it’s due to cracking? Plus it would get real heavy.
 
WRONG.....SURFACE AREA plus velocity thru tubes is the key....either thru more tunes and surface area.....btw....do you understand thermodynamics or just hearsay?
BOB RENTON
The solution to the argument is elegently simple......show us the dimensions, tube count, fin count of your example for comparison. And if you want, include your coolant velocity, coolant temperatures in and out of both coolant and ambient air side temps, as ambient temps effect BTU heat transfer differences......that way everyone will know which radiator design is more efficient....yes? A blanket comment without substantiation is USELESS.....WHY do you disagree??
BOB RENTON
 
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