Progress report, Junkyard Dog

[Donny]

Nice!

 

[MarPar]

Thanks again guys. Wizard of 12 mile?, did I miss something MarPar?.

For some reason i thought you lived near 12 mile in Detroit...I thought i saw a reference to it in the windward cruise thread.

I probably saw it wrong! my mind's been slippin' lately!! :sad: Sorry Matt!

Either way, helluva job you're doin' on the DOG!! :grin:

4-spd hump day...:rolling::rolling:

 

[Bens69PlymouthSatellite]

Hey Matt glad 2 see the Dog is coming back together!! Cant wait 2 see her on her feet again!! How does that weld through primer work?! I am curious because I will be using it on my car 2 would like 2 use the rust bullet as well but gotta see how $$ plays out,I have a few questions I am going to be starting on the trunk floor and wheel tubs here real soon,which would u do first? Inner wheel tubs then trunk or visa versa? I wanna do the wheel tubs 1 at a time so I can be sure they are lined up perfect,and heard they are a pain in the ***! U guys are very inspiring but make this all look so easy,I am excited and still a little intimidated but it's swim or drown time,and I am out of options.I love the LL1 color on the car who makes the paint? I am thinking of going with Diszler paint for my car( former PPG) Heard it sprays just like anything else and is very well priced + they do awesome mopar paint matching as I heard rumors they are responsible for some of the factory paint on mopars when they were new.My friend has a 69 A4 silver Hemi runner car and he said Diszler was the only color he found that matched perfectly,well Sorry for the Novel Matt! Cant wait to see yours and Wills projects finished!! I will post my progress soon even all my mistakes so people can learn what no 2 do as well as what 2 do,I know I will get alot of help from all of u!!

 

[northerndave]

Wow!! Zee Dawg is looking sooooo good!! This is awesome!!

Hey, I spotted a 66 chev in the background, a convert, looked like caprice tail lights? Is that a 66 caprice convertable? Wow!

i have a 66 caprice hard top collecting dust in my shop.

 

[detmatt1]

For some reason i thought you lived near 12 mile in Detroit...I thought i saw a reference to it in the windward cruise thread.

I probably saw it wrong! my mind's been slippin' lately!! :sad: Sorry Matt!

Either way, helluva job you're doin' on the DOG!! :grin:

4-spd hump day...:rolling::rolling:

Hey MarPar, you are right, there was a reference made to 12 Mile on one of my posts. I was talking about the Berkly parade, which kicks off the WOODWARD Dream Cruise, it takes place on 12 Mile. So for one evening a year, if you'd like, "The Wizard of 12 Mile" is what I am.:rolling: Thanks for the props brother!.

Hey Ben, go back a few posts in the thread to find out more on the weld through primer. As you can see in the pics there are several available, the copper stuff is the most expensive at almost 19 bucks a can, kind of a big can though and it is from SEM. The light grey stuff is also an SEM product without the copper in it at around 11 bucks, standard size can and the red stuff is what the guys use in the shop and I can't remember who makes that, Marehyde, or something like that. They all seem to work the same as far as how the weld goes down over them. As far as replacing your wheelhouses and trunk floor, that explanation could be a novel, the Cliffnote version, leave yourself a trail of popcorn.:grin: Leave as much of the rear of the car intact while you r & r as possible for reference and location points. Take lots of measurements and pictures as you dismantle. Imobilize the car on jackstands and make reference points on the floor, like Propwash did. I would even weld some falsework into the body of the car to keep the things you are not replacing from moving. Remember the roof is partially supported on top of the wheelhouses. The falsework could even be used to mount reference points to( see Donnies `69 GTX thread) he just built a nice fixture for his projects. Here is the order I would work in. I am assuming you are replacing your quarters. Remove just enough of your quarters now to expose one of your wheelhouses, remove that wheelhouse and then the trunk floor. Clean and prep the tops of the frame rails and set the new trunk floor in place and mark out the frame on the bottom of the new floor so you know where to drill all your plugweld holes. Weld in the trunk floor and install the one new wheelhouse with the other one still untouched for reference. Then replace the other wheelhouse and drink beer!:rolling:
I can't actually work on the body this weekend because the shop is closed for the holiday, but I am going to rebuild a set of door hinges this weekend and start on my 4spd which I took over to a friends house this week for a rebuild.:grin:

 

[detmatt1]

Wow!! Zee Dawg is looking sooooo good!! This is awesome!!

Hey, I spotted a 66 chev in the background, a convert, looked like caprice tail lights? Is that a 66 caprice convertable? Wow!

i have a 66 caprice hard top collecting dust in my shop.

That is a `66 Super Sport Cheby, console 4spd car awaiting a resto, one of my buddies clients, I don't know much about it.
Thanks for the positive feedback.:grin:

 

[roadrunnerman]

i had a 66 bel air.darn car had a timeclock in it. Every 2 weeks(payday) something would go wrong with it and i'd have to fix it.

 

[detmatt1]

One of my buddies got my 4 spd taken apart yesterday, cleaned it, tumbled a bunch of the small parts(they look like new when they come out of the tumbler!) and put together a list of things I will need to put it back together. I am going to clean up the case and prime it before putting it back together. Anybody know what the finish is supposed to be for a `68 4 spd, or were they left unfinished?.

 

[roadrunnerman]

if i remember right i think they were left unfinished.

 

[rosevillemoparts]

Matt,
clear coat it or use spray grey,

http://www.rosevillemoparts.com/adv...description=1&imageField.x=12&imageField.y=10

car is looking fabulous.

 

[PDFROGMAN]

One of my buddies got my 4 spd taken apart yesterday, cleaned it, tumbled a bunch of the small parts(they look like new when they come out of the tumbler!) and put together a list of things I will need to put it back together. I am going to clean up the case and prime it before putting it back together. Anybody know what the finish is supposed to be for a `68 4 spd, or were they left unfinished?.

when I do rebuilds I use the cast blast for cast iron looks great! from factory they left unpainted with some paint dabs

 

[detmatt1]

Thanks guys, Dave I will be in to pick some of that detail gray up this week. I'm having the case, cover and tailshaft hot tanked, probably take it in tomorrow or the next day.

 

[MarPar]

tumbled a bunch of the small parts(they look like new when they come out of the tumbler!) and put together a list of things I will need to put it back together.Anybody know what the finish is supposed to be for a `68 4 spd, or were they left unfinished?.

I bought a tumbler tonite as matter of fact (harbor freight, 32 bucks plus da ceramic triangles) screw da grinding wheel...it's a PITA for nuts, bolts and washers!

Matt, do you know what media your friend used? and how long he rolled them? i'm rolling my parts for da rad. to get them ready for paint and I haven't tried a tumbler before...

I think the case for da 4-spd was left natural metal color (unfinished) i've heard Eastwood's spray gray works well and looks right; i haven't tried myself yet though...

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-spray-gray-detail-paint-aerosol-12-oz.html

:tiphat: thanks, Matt!

 

[eagleone1983]

Marpar- just a word of advice about the tumbler you bought, i've got the same one, put lock tite on the threads that hold the tumbler tub down. Otherwise if you leave it for a while you'll come back to that thing screaming to come apart and if left long enough...like mine did, you'll have to dang near dissassemble the whole thing to get to the nut that holds the thick, black plastic plate that holds the tub on because that will eventually come loose too. Once you do that though it works good just takes a really long time before the parts are actually ready.

 

[detmatt1]

I found out what my buddy puts in the tumbler to help clean the parts. 2 gluggs of Simple Green, 2 gluggs of CLR and then topped off with water. The Simple Green cuts the oil and grease and the CLR helps prevent rust after tumbling.
Will work on the "DOG" tomorrow and Saturday:icon_rambo:.

 

[Donny]

HAHA, I have the same POS tumbler from HF! The nut wore off long ago, even a vise grip on the threads works for a little bit, POS!!!

 

[detmatt1]

Rebuilt a set of door hinges, took them apart, sand blasted them, drilled them out for the new bushings, assembled and then shot them with primer. Needed to get those done before I can hang my quarters so that I can have my doors on when I do final assembly. As you all know, I used a doner vehicle for my whole rear clip which included a solid oem trunk floor that was just pitted from rust with no holes. I wanted to fill these pits before I install the quarters, so here is what I did. Cleaned the primer off the area that was pitted and used Duraglass to coat the whole area. Not finish sanded yet but this works good. Also wanted to use the Duraglass to smooth over and protect all of the plug welds inside the wheelhouses, still have to sand this down and do the other side.

 

[Propwash]

Looking good as usual Matt....Happy sanding brother!

 

[Donny]

Dam! I got to catch up with you, looks like you will win this race! However, I may just re-energize my Satellite project as it needs less than the GTX! But, I've been so busy Media Blasting OTHER peoples cars, and not doing my own!

 

[rosevillemoparts]

atta boy, getting there.